Vacuum Adaptors

dbuelle

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I am trying to adapt my CT 15 Vacuum to my Grizzly 7071 Table saw.  What adaptor does everyone recommend?
 
Do you mean 0771? I couldn't locate any 7071 model. If it's a cabinet saw, you'd need a dust collector. The dust extractor won't do an adequate job.
 
[member=57948]ChuckS[/member] is right. The size of the port on the machine itself is the best clue as to what needs to be attached to it. Overly "adapting" is like a dog chasing its own tail.
It kind of work both ways. A 4" hose choked down to a small port is literally that, choked.
Likewise, a 2" hose adapted to a 4" port cannot move enough air to work correctly. The air moves faster, but at a lower volume. It sucks really hard, right at the port, but fades quickly as you get further away.
The only exception I can think of right off is the DeWalt 735 planer. It has an internal fan and ducting system that can essentially operate without additional suction. Accordingly, the exhaust port on them will take either 2" or 4". I have only ever used it with a 4" collector, but there are guys who just direct the chips into a trash can too.
 
Along the lines of the previous, Extractor vacs like the Festool products or similar, excell at high static pressure, small port size applications as they are "vacuum cleaners". They do not perform well with large ports and big spaces like you'll find on typical table saws, jointers, thicknessers, etc. Those machines need a dust collector which operates on the principle of moving a lot of air at a high velocity but low static pressure...as measured in CFM for the volume/speed. The air movement in turn moves the dust and chips.
 
I don't waste my time anymore searching the planet for adapters, I just make my own.

Depending on the size of the two ports, a lot of times I will start with a PVC pipe fitting and/or PVC trim board. PVC cement from the plumbing department makes it solid.
A hole saw and a drill mounted sanding drum can finish the bore, if needed.
Or a scroll saw with the table tilted a little for the taper.
 

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Steve1 said:
I don't waste my time anymore searching the planet for adapters, I just make my own.
Snip.

We're in the same league. I see people sometimes spending what I consider excessive money on 3D-printed connectors. Recently, I used a flexible coupling (available in various sizes from the plumbing section at HD, Lowe's, etc. for $10 Cdn or so) in conjunction with some hose cut-offs (two here) for a drill press dust collection upgrade:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...-festool-dust-collection/msg705862/#msg705862

Hoses of different diameters themselves can be cut to length to make effective connectors.

Not only money is saved, I also draw satisfaction from tackling things that require some problem-solving skills! Good for your brain even if your pocket is deep.
 
The CTs cant keep up with the dust coming from a large table saw or even a portable planer.

I just went out and bought a cheap DC for my planer, had no problems since.

You can find them for about $250, just checked harbor freight you can get a small one for about $150 or a full size at 35 gal at $300
 
Steve1 said:
I don't waste my time anymore searching the planet for adapters, I just make my own.

Depending on the size of the two ports, a lot of times I will start with a PVC pipe fitting and/or PVC trim board. PVC cement from the plumbing department makes it solid.
A hole saw and a drill mounted sanding drum can finish the bore, if needed.
Or a scroll saw with the table tilted a little for the taper.

PVC pipe or fittings roughly close to the correct size can be heated with a heat gun until softened can be slipped over or into the port you’re trying to match. Let it cool on the port or hose. Rotate a bit while cooling if needed. 
 
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