Video Review of Festool MFT System (495462 & 495565 & 495888)

[Kodi Crescent]

I like your shop organization and decorations.  The Band-Aids are a nice touch.  Did you have a mishap with a SawStop?

 

[PaulMarcel]

haha, no, no mishap with the SawStop.  I hadn't recalibrated my Incra miter gauge when I first got it and needed to crosscut a couple items.  I never realized that when retracted, the gauge's extension arm actually sticks out the other way into the path of the blade (which is dumb anyway).  So I had it fire on hitting the aluminum.  Since people used to ask me about how it works, I kept it on the wall.  It would make a cool clock now

When I do a lot with chisels, I sometimes need the bandaids  [embarassed]  So they aren't really there for decor; I put a finish nail there on the wall and poked a hole in the box.  Hangs up there really well.  Might have been intentional to put the finish nail near the SawStop blade  [wink]

 

[Cort]

Really good series of videos.  Thank you for making them.  This makes me consider even more strongly giving up on the sliding table on my table saw.  It seems I can never get that thing set up the way I want.  Moreover, the cross cut capacity of the table saw's slider isn't always what I need.  Somehow the MFT system relegates the table saw to the duty of only ripping.  There have been plenty of times when I wanted to cut a long sliding dovetail but just didn't have the ability to do it with precision.  As you mentioned, the MFT system lets that happen easily. Thanks again for the instructional videos.  They are much appreciated.  I don't have a MFT yet, but it is on my wish list.  I can only imagine the "joy" when the first kerf Christens the MFT top.  I am a little overwhelmed by what Festool to buy next since I need so much.  A MFT/3 is near the top of the list however.

 

[Sparktrician]

I am a little overwhelmed by what Festool to buy next since I need so much. 

"A journey of a thousand miles begins with just one step." 

[smile]

 

[Sparktrician]

Following up on Paul-Marcel's review of the MFT system, I took it upon myself to create a calibration method similar to the one that Paul-Marcel did for the MFT 1080, but for the MFT/3.  

Calibrating the MFT/3's fence to the Guide Rail

1. Initial planning.  You'll need the following items (or their equivalent):

• Fence Calibrator (24” x 3 7/8” x 3/4”)
• Guide Rail Calibrator (24” x 5 23/32” x 3/4”)
• Rail Height Calibrator (4” x 12” x 1/2” [or 12 mm])

    Note: width and length are rather immaterial; only thickness counts on this calibrator.

• Qwas Dogs (set of four)
• 12” x 8” reference square
• Mini-square
• MFT/3 equipped with:
     
• FS1080 guide rail and mounting hardware
     
• Fence and miter scale

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2. Using the Mini-square, verify that the cut-away end of the fence lines up with the right side of the miter gauge.  

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This will provide 1 1/8” clear space between the end of the fence and the cut line in the MFT.  

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3. Loosen the fence clamp top knob releasing the fence.  

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Loosen the miter gauge in/out motion adjustment knob.  

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4. Insert three Qwas Dogs in the second row of holes from the back of the MFT top.  Lay in the MFT/3 Fence Calibrator between the fence and the Qwas Dogs.  Hold the fence tightly against the Calibrator and the Qwas Dogs.  Tighten the miter gauge in/out motion adjustment knob to lock it in place.  While still holding the fence against the Calibrator, tighten the top knob of the fence clamp to ensure that there can be no movement of the fence.  

5. Lay the two 1/2” (12 mm) Guide Rail Height Calibrators in place under the guide rail, then drop the guide rail into place and adjust the height of the guide rail down to meet the Height Calibrators. Now remove the Height Calibrators.  

6. Once the guide rail height has been adjusted, place two Qwas Dogs in the 6th hole column (from the left) and in the 3rd and 7th holes from the back of the MFT/3.  Insert the Guide Rail Calibrator between the Qwas Dogs and the side of the guide rail.  The rail should be snug against the Guide Rail Calibrator.  

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7. Use the 12” x 8” reference square to validate that the guide rail is perpendicular to the fence.

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8. With the fence now adjusted fully to the rear, the MFT/3 will accommodate material at a maximum width of 27 1/4”, more than the piece of ornately-figured and rare Georgian MDF shown in the photo.  

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9. The fence can be moved out to the third row of holes from the rear of the MFT/3 by using Qwas dogs to ensure proper alignment.  As before, use the 12” x 8” reference square to validate the intersecting angle of the fence and guide rail.  Note that there will be some play in the fence unless the fence clamp is moved to the left side of the MFT/3 and engaged to lock the fence into register.  This setup will accommodate stock widths of up to 19 5/8” and brings the stock closer to the saw operator to reduce reaching.  Note that the in/out adjustment of the miter gauge is almost at its maximum point.

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10. If one is using conjoined MFT/3s, the placement of the fence clamp between the MFT/3s is not possible.  If absolute squareness is required, place three Qwas Dogs behind the fence, loosen the miter gauge in/out adjustment knob, the slide the miter gauge back tightly against the Qwas Dogs and tighten the in/out adjustment knob.  Leave the Qwas Dogs in place to ensure squareness.  This position will allow a maximum material width of 20 1/2”.  Moving the Qwas Dogs to the rearmost row of holes will allow a maximum material width of 24 5/16”.  Note that to retain absolute squareness, one should leave the Qwas Dogs in place behind the fence, since the fence clamp can't be used in this position.  

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11. Moving the fence to the maximum extreme of the in/out adjustment will allow the fence to rotate up to 90 degrees clockwise, and up to 55 degrees counter-clockwise before the fence hits the rear guide rail pivot mount shown at the end of the pencil.  
 
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This angle can be increased to 63 degrees by moving the fence to the left so that the fence guide pin is just inside the fence extrusion.

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Moving the fence 1/2” further to the left past the alignment pin will allow full 90 degrees of counter-clockwise rotation, and will give the fence a full 180 degrees of rotation.  

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Note that when the fence is rotated, use of the fence clamp is advisable to retain best accuracy of cuts, but will necessitate breaking apart conjoined MFT/3s to accomplish this.  

12. Note that if you cut your calibrators to a precise 24” length, and choose to apply measuring tape to the fence, you can use the 24” Calibrator length to validate that the 24” marker on the tape is at the exact point to get a good 24” cut at the guide rail.  The Fence and Guide Rail Calibrators can also be used to set the height of the guide rail to 3/4” or 19 mm.  

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[smile]

 

[GPowers]

They are not.  Bob Marino is the US retailer and Dan Clermont in Canada, maybe one of them would be willing to ship to Europe.  Or, you could could take Paul up on his offer. 

Are the Qwas dogs on Bobs website, I could not find them? Or is there a special site to buy them?

 

[Sparktrician]

They're not available on Bob's site yet, but call him directly and he will set up the sale. 

[smile]

 

[Qwas]

Looks like a good working model Sparky.  [smile] I don't have an MFT/3 so I can't verify any technical aspects but it looks right. I'm working with Paul-Marcel on something that might make this alignment easier.

I notice step 9 and hope you showed this primarily to show how. I would find it much easier to just put my Qwas Dogs in the holes and then use the dogs as the fence rather than worry about moving and aligning the fence. This is my favorite use for the dogs since it saves you from reaching all the way across the table to make a cut on something small like 4-12" wide. Now the fence stays aligned for use with bigger workpieces and the dogs can be put in closer holes for smaller pieces.  [smile]

 

[Sparktrician]

Looks like a good working model Sparky.  [smile] I don't have an MFT/3 so I can't verify any technical aspects but it looks right. I'm working with Paul-Marcel on something that might make this alignment easier.

I notice step 9 and hope you showed this primarily to show how. I would find it much easier to just put my Qwas Dogs in the holes and then use the dogs as the fence rather than worry about moving and aligning the fence. This is my favorite use for the dogs since it saves you from reaching all the way across the table to make a cut on something small like 4-12" wide. Now the fence stays aligned for use with bigger workpieces and the dogs can be put in closer holes for smaller pieces.  [smile]

 

You nailed it.  The idea was to show the capabilities for aligning the fence and rail to the MFT/3.  Once the fence and rail are squared to the MFT/3, the possibilities are limitless.  Thanks for producing them. 

[smile]

 

[PaulMarcel]

Nice work and documentation, Willy.  I don't have an MFT/3 either to follow up with trying it.  I think the Woodcraft nearby has one they use for demos so maybe I could give it a looksy.

Thanks for the followup!  [wink]

 

[Alan Smith]

Sparktrician,

Not sure if you've tried this but the fence clamp WILL work if you change the hole position on the clamp.  Unscrew the locking knob on top of the clamp, but be careful as there is a spring that likes to run out of the shop if it escapes.  There are two holes on the clamp.  I use the hole closest to the back of the fence.  My setup is as follows...

2 Qwas dogs in the last row of holes
Push fence against the dogs from behind the dogs.  This leaves a little bit of table top on the MFT 3 behind the fence, but not much.
Clamp down using the protractor head and the fence clamp on the back rail, not the left side rail. This only works for 90 degree cuts obviously, but we can always move the clamp to the side rail for angle cuts.

The fence clamp doesn't drop into the slot perfectly, but it does tighten down and lock the back fence in well.  Before I found out about the two holes, I simply used a clamp on the far end.

Of course, you'll still have to calibrate the saw, but I've found I like the extra width with this fence setting.  I don't have to remove it as often when it gets in the way of other projects...

 

[Sparktrician]

Sparktrician,

Not sure if you've tried this but the fence clamp WILL work if you change the hole position on the clamp.  Unscrew the locking knob on top of the clamp, but be careful as there is a spring that likes to run out of the shop if it escapes.  There are two holes on the clamp.  I use the hole closest to the back of the fence.  My setup is as follows...

2 Qwas dogs in the last row of holes
Push fence against the dogs from behind the dogs.  This leaves a little bit of table top on the MFT 3 behind the fence, but not much.
Clamp down using the protractor head and the fence clamp on the back rail, not the left side rail. This only works for 90 degree cuts obviously, but we can always move the clamp to the side rail for angle cuts.

The fence clamp doesn't drop into the slot perfectly, but it does tighten down and lock the back fence in well.  Before I found out about the two holes, I simply used a clamp on the far end.

Of course, you'll still have to calibrate the saw, but I've found I like the extra width with this fence setting.  I don't have to remove it as often when it gets in the way of other projects...

Cool idea!!!  There's always another way to get things done, and it's great to have input from others to learn from  Thanks!!! 

[smile]

 

[Steve R]

Another thing I can't live without  [eek] ....Qwas dog and rail dogs.... They will save time.

Thanks for the video.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Steve R]

Paul,

At a Festool event in Mpls. all the guys found your review and how to set up the table very helpful.

Thanks for your great reviews.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[PaulMarcel]

Ah, very cool, Steve.  Of all reviews, I thought the MFT ones would be the least interesting, but they have far outpaced the others.  Not bad for "just a table with holes"

 

[RONWEN]

Paul, great videos and great reviews!  You may consider quitting your day job.  [smile]

 

[EvilNuff]

I can tell you why, for me at least, I was most interested in the MFT video's Paul-Marcel.  I know what a drill is and I know what a router is...and I can picture one that's just better than competitors such that its worth the higher price tag.  I could not, however, picture how a "table with holes" was actually of use much less worth $600.  That's why I watched those vid's at least...i've watched the rest because your vids are great.

 

[Steve R]

2. Using the Mini-square, verify that the cut-away end of the fence lines up with the right side of the miter gauge.  

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This will provide 1 1/8” clear space between the end of the fence and the cut line in the MFT.  

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Sparktrician,

Thanks for taking the time to take Paul's work and applying it to the MFT/3.  Paul's video are great as it shows you how, but the still images are nice to have as reference while I do this mode to my MFT/3. My below question maybe me over thinking the thing as my table is on location and I wait (going on 3 weeks) for my back ordered Qwas dog's due to a supplier problem to the place I ordered them from.

I understand why you use the mini-square to aline the fence to the miter gauge. Well maybe I don't. I reason that we want the taller portion of the rail in contact with the miter gauge, as apposed to the lower trimmed part of the fence is there any other reason?.

I also don't understand how that alignment, will "ensure" as you state in the next image "This will provide 1 1/8” clear space between the end of the fence and the cut line in the MFT."? My Miter gauge can attach anywhere along the back rail of the MFT/3 (let's not talk about day one with the toy that I nipped into the top of the fence [eek] because it was past the cutting edge of the rail). There is only the stop in the back tack at 8 3/4' from the right (when looking from the front) that the trail hinge bracket uses. As you don't have a tape attached to fence it is not really an issue during your set up as long as the rail end in not in harms way of the TS blade.

So did you just pick 1 1/8” as what you wanted to use. Or is that a measure that if I get the fence closer to the cut line I could loose some functionality?

I see mostly using the fence for 90 degree cuts. I will also be adding the Starrett measure to the fence as Paul did, to speed up cuts. To achieve placing the fence both square and accurately aline the tape quickly. I see that if I mount the tape so that the 24" MDF will just stick out 1 1/8” (or the measurement of my choice?) from the end of the fence and use that. I do see that if I do use the miter and move the fence to make the swing, using the mini-square will give me a fast alinement of the scale back to accurate and then use the bock to double check.

I will also be adding the offcut fence as Paul did latter. He has that fence set at 7/8" from the blade. I can't tell from his video or from his blog how close he put the fence to the blade from the left side of the TS blade. Having a shorter block that will set completely on the MFT top to get first set up is going to be easier and can be used on either side to do a quick check.

I'm really looking forward to the offcut fence. From the first day when I want to cut off several 1.5" strip of material to use as shims and had to add 2.5mm for the cut and wanted repeatability. Also bought the table from Rockler and was told to set up the table by sliding the rail holders in from the right side... as in the short side...  Not the correct left side... Ahhhhh

Thanks guys doing the heavy lifting on this setup.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Sparktrician]

I understand why you use the mini-square to aline the fence to the miter gauge. Well maybe I don't. I reason that we want the taller portion of the rail in contact with the miter gauge, as apposed to the lower trimmed part of the fence is there any other reason?.

The objective is to keep the elevated portion of the fence entirely on the miter gauge for better rigidity.

I also don't understand how that alignment, will "ensure" as you state in the next image "This will provide 1 1/8” clear space between the end of the fence and the cut line in the MFT."? My Miter gauge can attach anywhere along the back rail of the MFT/3 (let's not talk about day one with the toy that I nipped into the top of the fence [eek] because it was past the cutting edge of the rail). There is only the stop in the back tack at 8 3/4' from the right (when looking from the front) that the trail hinge bracket uses. As you don't have a tape attached to fence it is not really an issue during your set up as long as the rail end in not in harms way of the TS blade.

So did you just pick 1 1/8” as what you wanted to use. Or is that a measure that if I get the fence closer to the cut line I could loose some functionality?

 

It's entirely arbitrary on my part to keep the fence back away from the cut line to prevent unnecessary "field modifications". 

[smile]

 

[Just_George]

First of all, thanks Paul for yet another great review!

Next, just as an FYI:  To those who own the older MFT 1080 or 800, the clamps used by Paul to secure the fence to the rear rail (originally used on the end of the fence...) are not in the Festool catalogue, nor are they shown as an assembly on Ekat.  The individual components are shown, but not the assembly.  :-\  A quick call to Chris at Festool Service reveals that there IS indeed a part number for the assembly.  Order part #120 (yep, that's all) and the service dept. will assemble the components and send it out, all for a grand total of $6.00

Hope that helps somebody...