VS600 + template and bit worth $200?

[Julian Tracy]

Hello,

I'm a virgin dovetailer - never tried any of the other jigs out, but have always heard pretty decent things about the PC jigs.

So someone locally is selling the VS600 setup with the SZ14 half blind template and a bit for $200.

Even though that's way more than the PC version, and even though there's the described lack of ability to do 1/2" stock (which sucks IMO), I'm thinking it's worth $200 to play with and learn the process as the chance is sure enough that one of you FS nuts here will pay that or a tad more if I find I'm not really using it and I decide to sell it.

No risk, right?

(For the record, I consider my self to be a FS nut in training, so no offense meant.)

My interest is in Cabinet drawers and pullouts and possible with the box joint template later on.

It's gotta be worth $200 right? - even though you can buy as capable units for 1/2 of that.

Thanks,

Julian

 

[Steve Jones]

Julian,

I'm using a PC jig myself, and delighted with it. My only problem is I needed to put dovetails in something wider than 12" the other day, ended up using a locking miter joint instead (which did a great job, btw).

At $200 buy the festool jig, if you decide you don't want it, I'll give you back your money plus a fairly new PC jig, plus the relevant bits for it (I haven't played with or even looked at the Festool jig, but I know it does wider boards than 12" and being Festool, I'm sure it's even slicker than the PC rig)

Steve

 

[Lancashire Fusilier]

...Even though that's way more than the PC version, and even though there's the described lack of ability to do 1/2" stock (which sucks IMO), ...

Julian, can you explain this a little. Do you mean that it can't work on stock that up to 1/2" thick but beyond that there is no problem?

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Julian,
I think the $200 is a bargain.  There is a finger joint template available too.  You will also need the appropriate copy ring for that template in addition to the bit.  I use my VS600 mainly for large carcasses and I love it.

Fusilier, you are right.  The half blind dt template works only for stock larger than 1/2 inch.

 

[Dan Uhlir]

is there an issue with compatible, routers or do you just need the copying ring and bit the balance of the 1010 with the VS is groovy no pun intended.dan

 

[Jesse Cloud]

is there an issue with compatible, routers or do you just need the copying ring and bit the balance of the 1010 with the VS is groovy no pun intended.dan

Hey Dan,
I would guess that if you could run a similar sized bit and copy ring/bushing in another router, how would the template know the difference?  Already having an OF1400, it never occured to me to use a different router.  One of the huge advantages in my book is how clean the process is.  With other routers and templates I always had a foot of shavings I had to sweep up.  Just a little bit here and there with the Festool solution.

 

[Dan Uhlir]

hi Jesse

      Thanks, for your response, I have the 1010 router, I was asking for Julian, and thought he might consider that also. I mean actually all tools oughta be festool. It's a system thing. dan

 

[Brice Burrell]

  I would guess that it's hard to find metric guide bushing to fit the VS600 for non-Festool routers ,in the US that is.

 

[Ignard1965]

Just do It, I own one with several templates, its a bargain. The advantages are

- wider boards up to 600mmm ( thats where the name is) or 24 inches
- fine tune ones
- in combination with the 1010 or 1400 and the dustcollection jig a superb dust collection
- Look and study the progress of the making
- 4/2 boards in one pass (up to 300mm/12 inch wide)
- dowel, finger, open and half dovetails possible

Downside
- special copyrings and therefor probably festool only, but who cares if you own one
- Performs best with the 1010 due to the weight of the router, but the large open dovetails are best made with 1400, but template will bow slightly
- price (thats a standard Festool feature, lol  )
- userguide (read the fantastic 'other manual' made by a user on www.festoolusa.com)

best regards

Ignard
The Netherlands, Europe

 

[Eli]

Downside
- special copyrings and therefor probably festool only, but who cares if you own one
- Performs best with the 1010 due to the weight of the router, but the large open dovetails are best made with 1400, but template will bow slightly
- price (thats a standard Festool feature, lol  )
- userguide (read the fantastic 'other manual' made by a user on www.festoolusa.com)

-for some insane reason doesn't easily clamp to the MFT. I'm still trying to get around to making a mounting board for it.

great otherwise.

 

[James Metcalf]

Eli

One thing you might want to add to that mounting board when you make it is a pin on the bottom in the proper place so the front edge will flush out with the MFT. I do not remember why I used just one pin. I clamp the board on the other end of the mounting. It may be because it needs to be clamped any way. I also added a French cleat on each end. It makes it easy to put out of the way.

  Ingard

I think there is a third knob that did not come out with all the VS600's in times past. It pulls the bow out of the clamping bar. It is in the center most part of the clamping bar. I use the 1010 with the VS600 most of the time. Less weight, but I have had no problem with the 1400. Also on the right side where you clamp the template the VS600 came out new with a knob that was slightly to large. Some one on FOG made a post on this. One phone call and David at Festool In US sent me the correct size. This was a year or two back. You may or may not have the same problem. 

Yes the VS600 and template is worth $200.USD                         

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Julian,

I'm using a PC jig myself, and delighted with it. My only problem is I needed to put dovetails in something wider than 12" the other day, ended up using a locking miter joint instead (which did a great job, btw).

At $200 buy the festool jig, if you decide you don't want it, I'll give you back your money plus a fairly new PC jig, plus the relevant bits for it (I haven't played with or even looked at the Festool jig, but I know it does wider boards than 12" and being Festool, I'm sure it's even slicker than the PC rig)

Steve

Steve, I faced a similar problem a few years ago when I had a 8" jig and needed to make some file cabinet drawers, and fudged it by separately machining two sets of lesser width, then carefully jointing the edges until they could be glued together while maintaining the spacing of the dovetail pattern.  I have no familiarity with the Festool jig.

Dave R.

 

[Julian Tracy]

Hmmm,

I didn't realize I would have to get a Festool router to use the darn thing.

Don't get me wrong, I think the 1010 is pretty cool, but I really do not need another router and it doesn't help that I just picked up a Milwaukee 2 1/4 HP hand-grip router for $50.  (ARE YOU LISTENING FESTOOL?  IT TAKES 1/4" AND 1/2" BITS!)

Metric bushings - that sucks.

I may still get it, but maybe I need to get that price down a bit to help pay for the new router I'd have to buy....

I'd get the 1010 in a second if it took 1/2" bits - certainly don't want to buy a whole nother set of 1/4" bits.

Funny thing is everyone comments about how much heftier the 8mm bits are compared to 1/4".  Heck - I can tell you all day long how much beefier 1/2" bits compared to 8mm...

Also sucks about the lack of 1/2" capability - who's bright idea was that? (Festool?)

Let you guys know if I end up with it.

Thanks for the advice.

Julian

 

[Eli]

Get the OF1400 instead

 

[Jerry Work]

Hi Julian,

Every dovetail jig that uses bushings requires a particular combination of router bit size, dovetail angle and bushing size to work correctly.  In most markets in the world those are metric sizes and easily obtained.  In the US we have for whatever reason stayed with fractional inch dimensioning of the easily obtained bits and pieces.  Most router manufacturers offer an 8mm collet for their other markets to go along with the 1/4" and 1/2" collets offered here.  You will likely find they also offer metric sized guide bushings in other markets as well if you dig far enough to find them.  A system like the VS600 is a full system where each template requires a specific bit and bushing and will work properly only with a given thickness range of material.  Don't try to mix and match as it simply will not work.  If you don't want to acquire - or can't find the correct set of bushings and bits for the router you want to use then the used VS600 will not work for you no matter the price.  The most important things about a router bit are how well balanced they are, the quality of the carbide use and how finely honed the carbides are.  The shank size matters only as the diameter of the bit increases beyond around 25 to 40mm. 

Festool sells the 1010 router with 1/4" and 8mm collets, the 1400 router with 1/4", 8mm and 1/2" collets and the 2000 router with all three collets as well.  The 1010 and 1400 are the two most appropriate for use with the VS600 jig.  They offer the proper guide rings and bits for the VS600 jig for both.  Call them direct, call any ISA or visit any stocking dealer to get what you need if you decide to acquire and use the VS600.

If it is any help, I use mostly 8mm shank bits sold by Festool in daily professional use.  I have yet to ever break one or have one require resharpening.  The drawer full of lesser quality 1/2" bits I acquired over the years before Festool entered the US market sit largely unused gathering dust because they simply are not as good, do not produce a fine a result and require far more attention for the level of precision I require from my work.

Jerry

Hmmm,

I didn't realize I would have to get a Festool router to use the darn thing.

Don't get me wrong, I think the 1010 is pretty cool, but I really do not need another router and it doesn't help that I just picked up a Milwaukee 2 1/4 HP hand-grip router for $50.  (ARE YOU LISTENING FESTOOL?  IT TAKES 1/4" AND 1/2" BITS!)

Metric bushings - that sucks.

I may still get it, but maybe I need to get that price down a bit to help pay for the new router I'd have to buy....

I'd get the 1010 in a second if it took 1/2" bits - certainly don't want to buy a whole nother set of 1/4" bits.

Funny thing is everyone comments about how much heftier the 8mm bits are compared to 1/4".  Heck - I can tell you all day long how much beefier 1/2" bits compared to 8mm...

Also sucks about the lack of 1/2" capability - who's bright idea was that? (Festool?)

Let you guys know if I end up with it.

Thanks for the advice.

Julian

 

[Lancashire Fusilier]

Thank you Jerry for that. I found that helped me understand a little better the rest of this thread as well.

Cheers,