Wall panel options for the shop

[rmwarren]

I think this will be the winter that I finish my little 10' X 12' shed/shop interior. The building was a stick-built shed on the property when we bought it, I dragged it about 20' across the yard, spun it 90 degrees, installed double doors & re-sided it and built the walk-out deck at the same floor level to let me work in/outside comfortably. Overall it is a tiny, really functional and downright ugly place to spend my time, still more of a shed than a shop.

Current conditions are what you would probably expect:

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The first photo includes my father-in-law at our second annual Crib-Fest (crabs and ribs). The shop/lower deck is kind of an extension of our outdoor living space, another reason to pretty it up. I have weatherproof storage under the deck for sheet goods and lumber, recently made some doors for it and the rest of that should get cleaned up in the summer.

So the plan is to gussy up the interior a bit, including insulation, better lighting, heat and finishing the walls. My main question relates to finishing the walls, I DO NOT want to use drywall, so I am looking for suggestions. The criteria are:

1.  Cheap
2.  Easily available (Lowes/HD)
3.  Durable
4.  Light in color, to keep it airy
5.  Cheap

I also plan to line the side walls with french cleats starting around 36" from the floor. Only the side walls really have any open area, the rear wall is nearly all cabinets and the font wall is mostly doors. The cabinets will get drawer faces and doors. I prefer a clean, contemporary look, not rustic.

What I am considering is some type of architectural panel system similar to the photo below, but shop-made. Perhaps panels of 24" high by 48" wide, with a small reveal between them or with vertical battens and a reveal in addition to the french cleats?

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Cruising around Lowes website this material got good reviews for appearance and surface finish:

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My current thought is to laminate this onto 3/8" drywall just to give it some thickness and support, and install it horizontally in 2' by 4' panels with battens vertically between the panels and french cleats running horizontally. Exposed fasteners are okay with me, probably stainless screws, and they would mostly be in the cleats/battens anyway. I am wondering if I can get away with ripping the panels, sand and perhaps darken the edges, clear finish and stick them in place?

Would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions, particularly about how finish the edges & mount the panels/battens.

Thanks!

RMW

 

[peter halle]

Richard,

One of my projects on hold was to finish my 10 x 12 so that I could try and eliminate my rented space which is underutilized.  I will offer some thoughts based on what my plans were:

I had planned to install a shop made "chair rail" around the perimeter that would have allowed extension tables / supports that would also work with the MFT/3 to be placed anywhere.  The area below the chair rail would be plain based on the assumption that I would have things rolled up to or stacked against the walls.  The area above was planned to have salt wall installed with space between sheets so that inserts with French cleats attached to them could be installed / slid / moved anywhere.  That way nothing was permanent and evolution was possible.  Just below the salt wall but about the chair rails was going to be a 6 inch strip all the way around the room where the electrical receptacles would be mounted.  That strip would be removable so that changes could easily be made.

Maybe something here will spark an idea for you.  I am sure you will have your area done before I do.

Peter

 

[GarryMartin]

Salt wall = slatwall?

 

[rvieceli]

I'm rather fond of plywood for this application, in a substantial enough thickness that you can attach stuff to the wall without worrying about hitting a stud. So probably 3/4 inch.

You won't need that many sheets. you can paint it if you want. If you want a grid pattern with reveals, keep the sheet whole and the rout your grid pattern in.

 

[peter halle]

Salt wall = slatwall?

Yes.  Autocorrect in action.  Sorry.

Peter

 

[rljatl]

My shop situation is very similar to yours.  The space is also about 10 x 12 and I work outside whenever possible, too.  

Just finished insulating the outside walls and looking into various options to cover the insulation.  Because mine is located in a corner of my finished basement, I wanted something fire resistant.  Hardy Panel won't work because it is too brittle to hang anything heavy from.  Other options were too expensive.  Ended up with 3/4" fire resistant plywood.  I am going to prime and paint it with a bright off white.  

Does anyone have suggestions for primer and paint?

 

[Wooden Skye]

Why not use T111 siding it is available at HD and Lowes.  The fact that it is tongue and groove helps making it somewhat nice and it can be painted.  Even cheaper would probably be OSB not as good looking, but one painted, not awful.  The other option is buying a few sheets of MDF and a slat wall router bit and making what you want, cheaper than buying premade slat wall.

 

[rmwarren]

In my case I really want to have wood grain rather than painted finish, hence the interest in the underlayment. I also considered tongue & groove white pine, but it is more rustic that I really want. I hope to avoid screwing stuff directly to the walls by using the french cleats, but this may be wishful thinking.

I like the utility of the slat wall but dislike the appearance, it reminds me too much of retail stores. Over the past few months nearly all my small tools have moved off the walls and into cabinets, I hope to complete this and then pretty it up with doors/drawer fronts. I have room for one more smallish cabinet and then I am going to build a rolling cabinet under the MFT, this should leave me with just the long stuff like guide rails, straight edges, hand saws & stationary machines on the walls, along with my growing collection of 80/20. Basically I am striving to declutter the space at the same time. 

The underlayment/sheetrock approach may be too big a PITA, as rvieceli suggested plywood would only cost an extra $100/wall or so. It is funny but the $50 HD maple/birch ply I used to consider too expensive has become my basic shop ply recently, this being after I took the plunge for some $120 prefinished maple for cabinets. Interesting how perspective changes...

Anyway, plywood meets criteria #2/3/4.

Keep it coming, I appreciate the input from everyone.

RMW

 

[tjbnwi]

Look at LP Smart Panel the 3/8" for soffits. Thats what this product is, it was ordered pre painted. I believe HD or Lowes carries it. I get it from a supply house.  As you can see it is used a a garage liner in this application. Very stable and water resistant/proof.

Tom

 

[land_kel]

I did used slatwall behind my kapex as i did not want to use pegboard again, so I could hang items close by. The problem I find us the lack of hangers for slatwall say in comparison to pegboard.

David

 

[tjbnwi]

I did used slatwall behind my kapex as i did not want to use pegboard again, so I could hang items close by. The problem I find us the lack of hangers for slatwall say in comparison to pegboard.

David

http://www.fixturedepot.com/Slatwall_Hooks_s/51.htm

Tom

 

[Stephen B]

Why not use T111 siding it is available at HD and Lowes.  The fact that it is tongue and groove helps making it somewhat nice and it can be painted.  Even cheaper would probably be OSB not as good looking, but one painted, not awful.  The other option is buying a few sheets of MDF and a slat wall router bit and making what you want, cheaper than buying premade slat wall.

Exactly, why expensive solutions, rather than simple ones like these, or just painted bracing ply? It is not a house, it is supposed to be a productive retreat!?  [smile]

And you will have more funds for lighting, insulation and heating!   [big grin]

 

[rizzoa13]

Richard have you heard of Fazzios steel in Glassboro? They actually have some legit birch ply at like 30$ a sheet. I can't remember if it was 1/2 or 3/4 but the stuff was very nice and made me wish I wasn't loading up my truck with heavy steel. Give it a look, they always have it in stock in a stack on the floor and there was stacks of maple and red oak also. The price seemed great, I guess they don't know how to price wood only metals

 

[rmwarren]

Richard have you heard of Fazzios steel in Glassboro? They actually have some legit birch ply at like 30$ a sheet. I can't remember if it was 1/2 or 3/4 but the stuff was very nice and made me wish I wasn't loading up my truck with heavy steel. Give it a look, they always have it in stock in a stack on the floor and there was stacks of maple and red oak also. The price seemed great, I guess they don't know how to price wood only metals

Hey - we are neighbors! [thumbs up]

I am not familiar with Fazzios but looks like I need to check it out. Anyplace that carries American flags, u-bolts, structural steel I-beams, stainless steel dock cleats and birch ply is my kind of place.

Thanks,

RMW

 

[rizzoa13]

That place is like a city block of heaven seriously. If your feeling really funky they have an older store attached to it where you can buy old machine parts, nuts and bolts and drill press bits for the scrap price of the metal per pound!

 

[rmwarren]

That place is like a city block of heaven seriously. If your feeling really funky they have an older store attached to it where you can buy old machine parts, nuts and bolts and drill press bits for the scrap price of the metal per pound!

Definitely my kind of place. Like I need more old machine parts sitting around... [doh]

RMW

 

[rizzoa13]

I actually went there today to get some metal ( DIY outdoor air kit for my Woodstock) and they didn't have the ply anymore but they had some nice cherry, poplar and red oak lumber for good prices. 4/4 up to 12/4 I up to 16" pieces and 12' lengths.

 

[Tinker]

My current thought is to laminate this onto 3/8" drywall just to give it some thickness and support, and install it horizontally in 2' by 4' panels with battens vertically between the panels and french cleats running horizontally. Exposed fasteners are okay with me, probably stainless screws, and they would mostly be in the cleats/battens anyway. I am wondering if I can get away with ripping the panels, sand and perhaps darken the edges, clear finish and stick them in place?

Would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions, particularly about how finish the edges & mount the panels/battens.

Thanks!

RMW

I agree with the 3/8" drywall.  It tightens up and will help keep any airflow between inside/outside.
I don't know the thickness of the panneling you are showing, so i will guess at 3/4".  And then you put battens over that, possible another 3/4".  maybe less.  i don't know, but will use that figure for now.  And then, you put French cleats over that. Another 3/4"  If your materials match my guestimates, you are intruding into small area by 2-14" beyond the 3/8" drywall.  That doubles when you think of opposing walls.

I like the idea of T-111 with french cleats myself. 

I am folowing this thread (came across it last nite so have only looked thru once) as interested in the ideas presented.  I am going to have to rearrange my own small shop.  At about 9' in width, it is way too narrow the way I have it set up. I need to put a lot that is scattered up onto the walls. 

Tinker

 

[Kevin D.]

I did my interior walls with T1-11 siding. Super strong and it does not show butt ends. You won't need french cleats this way imo. Anytime I uncsrew something, I just fill the old screw holes with wood filler and if blends right in. You can't tell there was a screw hole there unless you're really looking for it.

I recommend running a belt sander over the sheets before installing to remove the rough burr finish, but that's not mandatory either.  Just looks nicer imo that way. In Canada they go for about 45 dollars a sheet, but I've seen them as low as 37 at times. They are rated for exterior use as well, so if you have super wet/dampish conditions, they'd be ideal. Makes the shop feel real cozy with a natural wood look and while they don't reflect light as well as a whit painted wall, they look a heck of a lot better imo and are more practical imo for fastening and unfastening things as your shop evolves.