Want to get rid of radial arm saw- what tools will do the same job

waltwood

Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2012
Messages
114
I realized how much space my R.A. saw takes up in my shop and would like to sell it. With sliding compound miter saws I don't use it much except for half -lapping and dado cuts in larger dimension timbers like 4 x 6's and 6 x 6's. Any suggestions on how I could make those kind of cuts with other tools. Table saw is not an option because the wood is up to 8 feet long. That won't work crosscutting! I want a fairly precise cut so circ. saw and chisels are not good enough and I have to do that in the field enough as it is building decks and other structures. 
 
That's tricky. The first alternative that comes to mind is using the OF 1400 with guide rails and the MFS system.
 
+ 1 on the 1400 OF....... depending on the depth of your dado. I've cut dado's with my TS 75. It was a bit time consuming and I had to clean up the cut with a chisel but I was able to create a deeper cut.
 
The router was the only thing I could come up with, but it still would not give me the depth I have with a 14" R.A. saw.
 
I love my RAS for its ability to do very big crosscuts -- about 17" give or take a bit.  For those, I suppose my track saw could be used. I have a small shop but have always allowed space for the RAS.  I just feel so confident using that saw.  I did not own a table saw until about 10 years ago.  I have a compound miter saw, and if I ever replaced it with a Kapex, I might try to get by without the RAS.  But I'd likely move it out of my basement shop and set it up in the garage.

It was my first major woodworking tool that I bought in 1976, so I could never sell it!
 
Scribe cut with the Kapex (if it within its rebate range), repeat with some knockout cuts with the Kapex. Knock out with a chisel and finish with the OF if you need precision.

Or, when I was learning to do jobs like this...

Use a cross cut handsaw, a ripping saw and a chisel - oh and hope that Dad does not clip you around the ear if it is not perfectly square.

Peter
 
I use my Makita sliding chop saw for half laps, just set depth stop and then clean up with chisel.
 
I got rid of my RAS for a tablesaw and SCMS.  Since i stepped onto the FESTOY slippery slope, I have discarded the TS and not happy with the SCMS.  I'm sorry I got rid of the old RAS.  The time it takes to set up a router for dado's and rabbets, i could cut a whole stack of the same using the RAS.  It is one of those tools that if you are comfortable with its uses, you will probably wish you still had it for the few times it is the best tool to use for you.
Tinker
 
Tinker said:
I got rid of my RAS for a tablesaw and SCMS.  Since i stepped onto the FESTOY slippery slope, I have discarded the TS and not happy with the SCMS.  I'm sorry I got rid of the old RAS.  The time it takes to set up a router for dado's and rabbets, i could cut a whole stack of the same using the RAS.  It is one of those tools that if you are comfortable with its uses, you will probably wish you still had it for the few times it is the best tool to use for you.
Tinker
In the back of my mind that is what I was thinking. I can set the RAS up fast and notch a 6 x 6 in 20 seconds but it takes up 10' of wall space in the shop I can really use for other nice new tools. Plus I don't want to hear the same same s*** from my wife that every time I sell a tool I end up buying another one just like it. She is right but I just don't want to hear it. [smile]
 
When time is not a consideration, I can get accurate bevels with my MFT and ATF 55.  It takes time and a lot of trial and error to get a multi bevel.
It might be quicker with TS 55 or 55R with better angle reading.  It is a lot quicker with the RAS than the SCMS I have now.  As far as space between RAS and SCMS, I think the SCMS uses more space overall. You still need the same amount of table space.  I found I could contain the dust from my RAS but have about given up with the SCMS.
Tinker
 
Why not "convert" a rail and some blocking to a RAS setup?

There were some other threads about ripping narrow stock and I thought setting a rail and sliding a saw across could get similar results. You wouldn't be able to easily achieve the same depth, but i know if could be done.

My .02
 
Back
Top