What do you use your MFK 700 for?

[Kodi Crescent]

I am considering purchasing the MFK 700 since it is on sale.  I have a 1400, but tend to work on small parts and realize that the 1400 is a bit cumbersome.  I've done a lot of research on the net about the MFK 700, and I find most of the reviews referring to trimming edge banding. 

Such a neat looking tool must have more uses than just trimming edge banding.  So MFK 700 owners out there, what do you use your MFK 700 to do?

 

[Wood_Junkie]

I am also waiting anxiously for some more information on the MFK700.
I liked using it at the Festool class, but for simply trimming edge-banding, that's-a-lotta-cabbbage.

Do "normal" length router bits fit into the MFK?  e.g. all the Whiteside, Rockler, and Ryobi 1/4" shank edge-treatment bits I already own.  Are "normal" bits too long for the MFK's usable range of use?  It seemed like it was sort of snub-nosed when looking at the collet-to-surface distance.

Help!  And hurry! 

 

[harry_]

my understanding is that it is ~5/8

 

[Kodi Crescent]

I'm a little disappointed in the lack of response on this.  Perhaps the MFK 700 is just a one-trick pony.  I hear the lack of seeing the bit is really the achilles heel of this tool.  That really is a shame.  I'll let the clock run out on this one.

 

[junk731]

The MFK 700 is by no means a single operation router, it just excels at edge treatment and I think the main reason most of us buy it. While the 1.5 and 0 horizontal bases have a 5/8" capacity, the vertical base does not and can use longer and wider bits like the sizes shown on the accessory page. 90% of the time I use it for edge trimming veneer/laminates and is the reason I bought it. If you want more versatility then the 1010 or 1400 with plunge ability may be more to your liking and working style. As far as seeing the bit I personally don't see that as a limitation or a reason not to buy the router.

John

 

[GPowers]

The total hight adjustment on the MFK700 is 16mm up and down. The collet is 39mm deep. so you have some flexibility with the combination of both. You can not get any bit larger the 1/4" rounder over through the base plate.

I have only had the MFK since the Nevada class and have used it for edge trimming and narrow rabbit cutting. It is a lot easer, for these operation, to use then the OF1400 that I have.  

I have tested several non-Festool bits Craftsman, Somerfield Tools, Bosch and Eagle tools.

 

[GPowers]

Here are some of the bits:

Left to right  Craftsman, Festool, Bosch, Somerfield Tools

All work in the MFK 700

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Thanks guys for that feedback.  I was hoping that there was more to it than just trimming edge banding.  The argument against blind routing is interesting.  When my OF1400 is plunged I can't see the bit on that, and am essentially blind routing.  Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Greg - that's an interesting measuring tool you showed.  What's that called?

 

[ajones]

Its a ruler  [big grin]

 

[bjackson3]

I use a lot for edge beading.  I work a lot with Azek and if you've ever routed the stuff you know what a mess it is. This little router saves me from looking like the abominable snowman at the end of the day!

 

[Sparktrician]

Its a ruler  [big grin]

What a quaint concept!!! 

[big grin] [big grin] [big grin]

 

[Sparktrician]

I use my MFK700 primarily as a laminate trimmer doing Formica or Wilsonart projects.  It has a horde of other uses, but in my world, it excels doing laminate work, especially using an Amana No-File bit (http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/47150.html) to ease the edge without needing a chamfering bit and creating two sharp edges out of one.  Before buying the MFK700, I had been using a DeWalt laminate trimmer, but the tiny base, the lack of DE capabilities, and the fact that I kept stepping on the power cord regardless of efforts to not do so impelled me to spring for the MFK700.  I no longer create clouds of dust to be swept/vacuumed up later with the CT22 and the boom arm helps me to not step on the power cord.  The larger base of the MFK700 is a big help in keeping the router dead-on perpendicular with the workpiece.  I acknowledge the fact that I need to first use a straight bit to shape the laminate before using the no-file bit, but the end result is worth the trouble for me. 

[smile]

 

[Kodi Crescent]

I see that there are 2 horizontal bases available - the 1.5 degree and the 0 degree.  The motor fits into these bases vertically.  Is there any difference between the bases when the motor is mounted vertically?

 

[Sean_C_G]

Kodi - I'm not an owner of the MFK 700, but when I was at Cabinet Making back in July, we used the MFK 700 not just for the obvious edge trimming, but also to route the grooves for the 1/4" cabinet backs, with the parallel edge guide. It impressed me. Like you, I'm also on the fence, but am thinking about pulling the trigger because having it would make my workflow smoother. I currently only have the OF1010, and while I have used it to good effect for edge trimming, when I'm making cabinets, I'd like to have my 1010 set up for line boring, then use the 700 for my edge trimming and for routing the grooves for the cabinet backs. Hope this helps, and we both have until the 30th! All the best.

 

[atomicmike]

Greg - that's an interesting measuring tool you showed.  What's that called?

That's one of Incra's Precision T-Rules: http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCRA_Precision_T_Rules_Metric_150mm_p/t-rule150m.htm. A very handy marking tool to have around.

- Mike

 

[ccarrolladams]

As soon as the MFK 700 was introduced in the USA I purchased one as the complete set, primarily to trim edge banding. Once I had the chance to put it to use, I went back to Eagle Tools to by a second MFK 700, so I had one set-up on the 1.5 degree base and the second on the vertical base.

I participated in the cabinet and router classes in Las Vegas recently. We did use the MFK 700 to route the groove for the back of a cabinet. As a result I took advantage of the promotion and bought a third MFK 700 as a spare and also should I need to cut such grooves.

My fleet of OF 1010 has also expanded. I started with one back in 2006 with the whole LR 32 drilling accessory set. I have never used my original OF 1010 except for drilling. In mid 2009 I bought a second OF 1010 with a Guide Plate for mortising the 35mm hinge holes.

Although the OF 1010 is not part of the 2010 Fall promotion, it still combines with a vac for a good deal. I had long planned to add a CT36 as soon as available, so to me it made sense to get another OF 1010 while saving some money. As we proved in the classes the OF 1010 is a very useful plunge router when the power of the OF 1400 or OF 2200 is not needed.

Long ago it took me time to get used to plunge routing. I had to learn to use layout lines and stop blocks more that looking at the bit. That is one aspect of using the MFK 700 to route grooves that dies not bother me in the least, just as it is not for me an issue with any of my Festool plunge routers,

 

[Sparktrician]

I see that there are 2 horizontal bases available - the 1.5 degree and the 0 degree.  The motor fits into these bases vertically.  Is there any difference between the bases when the motor is mounted vertically?

Let me correct this perception.  The kit comes with a vertical base and a 1.5° HORIZONTAL base for trimming edge banding and the like.  The other base which is an add-on is a 0° HORIZONTAL base.  The motor mounts to each of these perpendicular to the plane of the base.  There are other differences in terms of adjustment, options/accessories and dust collection.  Suggest that you read Brice's tutorial/review of the MFK700 here - http://burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage72.html. 

[smile]

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Thanks for providing the link. 

I was at the local Woodcraft yesterday playing with the MFK, and it seems that you can mount the router vertically in the horizontal base.  I tried it (without turning the unit on).  It looks like you give up dust collection when mounted like this (please correct me if I'm wrong).  It looked like you would mount the MFK vertically like this (in the horizontal base) so you could use it like any other trim router.  Am I understanding this correctly?

 

[davee]

I don't do much edge routing but plan to do more in the future.  I purchased and use the MFK for cutting grooves and routing profiles on the edge (chamfering, roundover, etc.).  What impresses me the most is the dust collection in which it excels.  I cutting a goove, such as for a cabinet back, there is virtually no dust .  It has a threaded base which accepts an inlay guide (I have the Whiteside).  Along with its ease of use, it should be excellent for inlay.  I haven't yet, but am hoping to use it for sliding dovetail.  The only complaint I have is that it doesn't have an attachement to the guide rail - I'm told it doesn't because it isn't a plunge router.

I find myself reaching for the MFK pretty frequently as it is simply fun to use.

 

[GPowers]

Greg - that's an interesting measuring tool you showed.  What's that called?

I think Mike already answered your question about the ruler. I have seen them before but at the Cabinet class we used the t-ruler for the project. The one in the class was both metric and Imperial. It was a little hard for me to see all the marks. This one is just metric and has full mm marks and .5 mm marks. I was only able to find it at the Incra online store. It is very handy.