What Festool Did You buy Today?

[member=81747]Sauvecreates[/member] Congrats on drinking the koolaid! Honestly I have had no qualms buying Festool for over 40 years, its worth it in so many ways.

Just to whet your appetite a little more though, if you do a lot of cabinetmaking, I couldn't recommend highly enough to take a serious look at the Lamello Zeta, yes at first glance it's horrendously expensive, but what an amazing time and effort saving tool that can do things even the Domino can't! You can also buy 3rd party connectors that are about 1/10th the normal cost, so that saves a bundle.
 
I just got a CT Midi I from Festool Recon.  Looks to be brand new.  Not a mark on it anywhere.  The hose was damaged, hopefully Festool will make it right.
 
It's . . .been a month.

I picked up a SawStop 3HP PCS from a retiring woodworkers basement. 13 steps. 400lb. Not fun! Then had to put the thing in pieces away in my garage for a week while on spring break with the family. Got back and spent most of the time assembling, doing the outfeed table, cutting the outfeed table so it fits the ICS base. .last week I magswitch mounted the Jessem guides to it and last weekend I built these Izzy Swan folding infeed supports that will lift full 4x8 sheets up onto them. I don't have a good pic of them finished. Between all this I've been spending every minute of free time making 14' of built ins and remodeling our dining room. I'm exhausted typing about all of it. Anyway, some pics:

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A time set link to how the lift works:



I've always been a track saw guy but there's been a lot of times since I bought this saw and was breaking down sheets I just didn't want to use the track saw. I just want to do an oversized rip real fast and not mess with parallel guides and cutting station and what not. I don't have a dedicated cutting station, it has to be setup each time.

I never buy/build peoples plans but after throwing my back out during the cabinet building I jumped on this.

Matt

 
ChuckS said:
Very nice setup, Matt.

The Jessem stock guides will help handle a large sheet, too.

An infeed table support (an example:https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/clip-on-infeed-support-for-table-saw) will help the use of the miter gauge / cross cut sled.

Thanks Chuck. I basically made that infeed but on a larger scale if you look at the pictures. I may make a little one next. Crosscut sled is on the list of to-do as well. Never used one before.

Between the infeed supports @ 44" long and the Jessem guides I figure I can easily cut full size sheets when I want.
 
A set of the Kapex zero clearance fences, from Custom Fabricating Solutions. Took a long time to get here (Australia) and they didn't respond to emails, but very happy with the product.
 
Matt,

What kind of blade guard does the saw come with? I can't be 100% sure from your third photo.

The overarm blade guard, which allows the extraction of dust above the table, is very very effective in dust collection (over 99%) if it's probably configured (e.g. hooking up the blade guard to a separate shop vac or dust extractor. I pair the shop vac with an IVac automatic switch). 

If yours doesn't come with one, consider buying it. You can buy the whole overarm dust collection kit that includes the tube and blade guard, or just the blade guard. You can fashion your own tube system with just hoses (Google should bring you some latter examples).

The SawStop overarm blade guard performs not as well in edge cuts, but there's a fix:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...s-topics/scratching-my-head-about-this-chute-(3-d-printed)/msg709808/#msg709808
 
ChuckS said:
Matt,

What kind of blade guard does the saw come with? I can't be 100% sure from your third photo.

The overarm blade guard, which allows the extraction of dust above the table, is very very effective in dust collection (over 99%) if it's probably configured (e.g. hooking up the blade guard to a separate shop vac or dust extractor. I pair the shop vac with an IVac automatic switch). 

If yours doesn't come with one, consider buying it. You can buy the whole overarm dust collection kit that includes the tube and blade guard, or just the blade guard. You can fashion your own tube system with just hoses (Google should bring you some latter examples).

The SawStop overarm blade guard performs not as well in edge cuts, but there's a fix:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...s-topics/scratching-my-head-about-this-chute-(3-d-printed)/msg709808/#msg709808

Chuck - it's the one you hook a shop vac to. I've been using it whenever practical for the reasons you outlined. I need to get an adapter for my shop vac but have been using my CT26 as it's a direct fit and I have a bluetooth remote on it right at the end for easy access. Strongly considering a second CT vac dedicated to the garage now that I'm split between my basement workshop and garage.
 
DynaGlide said:
ChuckS said:
Matt,

What kind of blade guard does the saw come with? I can't be 100% sure from your third photo.

The overarm blade guard, which allows the extraction of dust above the table, is very very effective in dust collection (over 99%) if it's probably configured (e.g. hooking up the blade guard to a separate shop vac or dust extractor. I pair the shop vac with an IVac automatic switch). 

If yours doesn't come with one, consider buying it. You can buy the whole overarm dust collection kit that includes the tube and blade guard, or just the blade guard. You can fashion your own tube system with just hoses (Google should bring you some latter examples).

The SawStop overarm blade guard performs not as well in edge cuts, but there's a fix:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...s-topics/scratching-my-head-about-this-chute-(3-d-printed)/msg709808/#msg709808

Chuck - it's the one you hook a shop vac to. I've been using it whenever practical for the reasons you outlined. I need to get an adapter for my shop vac but have been using my CT26 as it's a direct fit and I have a bluetooth remote on it right at the end for easy access. Strongly considering a second CT vac dedicated to the garage now that I'm split between my basement workshop and garage.

Strongly recommend getting the second vac.  [wink]
 
When I take over the garage for projects I turn it into a second workshop. I think I'd lean toward a full featured CT if I get one. I use my tools up there as needed.

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I had no idea that you were jumping back and forth between basement and garage shops.
Is it purely not enough space in either? Rather be in conditioned space (basement) but can't get everything down there?
Break down sheet goods up, then take the parts inside?

Explain please?

 
Crazyraceguy said:
I had no idea that you were jumping back and forth between basement and garage shops.
Is it purely not enough space in either? Rather be in conditioned space (basement) but can't get everything down there?
Break down sheet goods up, then take the parts inside?

Explain please?

Yes to all of the above. I have a nicely setup basement shop. Miter saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, Roubo workbench, a stupid hand tool collection that I have no business owning, crammed into a tight space. Up until a month ago I never had any machinery in the garage. I would setup TrackTubes cutting stations when I get plywood in. Process the sheets into final dimension parts in the garage then move them to the basement for line boring and assembly. If I spray, I setup in the garage and do it outside on my driveway and have drying racks that knock down. Sometimes I'll setup a tent outside. When I'm done with a project I pack everything up and take it back down and store it in the basement against walls or in a closet.

I bought a SawStop PCS second hand recently and a dust collector. Those will live in the garage. I'm selling my motorcycle to make room.

Matt
 
I hung shower liners that I get from my wholesale club at $4.00 each, on cable in my basement.  I can slide them open or closed as I need them to minimize overspray getting on other stuff in the shop.  I would say it is about 80 to 90 percent effective.

Most of the errant spray going under the liners which are about 3” off the ground.

I can’t seal the upper range because I have open rafters.

Correction:  I did not hang them from cables, but from 1” wide cargo straps with a ratchet to tighten them.  Large eyebolts to the rafters/joists.  They never seem to need tightening, but an easy process if they do.  It’s kind of Rube Goldberg, but cheap and effective and slides out of the way when not needed.
 
I sent an email to Festool about the crimped hose that came with my Festool Recon acquired MIDI.  They are sending me a replacement free of charge.  Nice to see that some companies still stand behind their products.
 
DynaGlide said:
Yes to all of the above. I have a nicely setup basement shop. Miter saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, Roubo workbench, a stupid hand tool collection that I have no business owning, crammed into a tight space. Up until a month ago I never had any machinery in the garage. I would setup TrackTubes cutting stations when I get plywood in. Process the sheets into final dimension parts in the garage then move them to the basement for line boring and assembly. If I spray, I setup in the garage and do it outside on my driveway and have drying racks that knock down. Sometimes I'll setup a tent outside. When I'm done with a project I pack everything up and take it back down and store it in the basement against walls or in a closet.

I bought a SawStop PCS second hand recently and a dust collector. Those will live in the garage. I'm selling my motorcycle to make room.

Matt

That make sense, the SawStop is a recent addition.
 
johnmpf said:
I sent an email to Festool about the crimped hose that came with my Festool Recon acquired MIDI.  They are sending me a replacement free of charge.  Nice to see that some companies still stand behind their products.

There are a handful of companies that I have dealt with over the years who maintain a standard of excellence that exceeds their customers’ expectations.

Hasselblad, a Swedish manufacturer of high quality (and expensive) cameras was sold with no guarantee at all. Everyone knew that if there was a problem, Hasselblad would take care of it.  They only added the guarantee when various jurisdictions passed laws that, if no guarantee existed, then the law would assign a default guarantee. 

In 1982, I bought a strobe light from Sinar-Bron (Broncolor, a Swiss manufacturer).  In less than a year the circuits fried.  It costs $6,000.00 (about $20,000.00 in current dollars) and was out of guarantee by about 4 months.  I sent it to Sinar-Bron, and they replaced it with a new one at no charge.

Filson, a USA manufacturer of outdoors (“hunting”) clothes and luggage, will repair their clothes or luggage if there is a tear or a seam lets go.  (They were recently sold to a larger company, so I am uncertain of their current policy).

Coach, the leather goods manufacturer makes it a point of their “lifetime” guarantee.  That they will replace zippers, re-sew failed seams, re-attach handles, etc.  What they don’t mention is that they decide how long a “lifetime” is.  If the bag shows signs of wear or age, they will declare that “it has lead a full life”, and is not qualified for free repair.

So it appears that Festool is in good company (if we ignore Coach).

I think the operative thought is that the manufacturers’ expectations of quality is higher than the consumers’ expectations. We rarely see that anymore and we find it refreshing when it happens. 

I should start a separate thread where members can post their own positive experiences with manufacturers (both for woodworking and for non-woodworking applications).

It is nice to know after the sale that Festool is in that rarified community of manufacturers. 
 
This thing's really nice, it has a nice heft to it for being so small. I still prefer the Stabila's but this is really handy for smaller issues.

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