What finish is pet safe?

[RKA]

The subject line isn't quite clear, but the picture below should be.  The chair below was built in a hurry do to a medical condition that prevents Chili from properly ingesting food.  The good news is the chair works.  The bad news is the process is a little messy as you can see.  I want to built a new chair, probably out of plywood again.  But this time I need to make it so it can be cleaned and disinfected regularly and whatever I use needs to be pet safe (he feels nauseous as he ingests food and his coping mechanism is to lick the sides of the chair).  The end grain on top is constantly exposed to moisture and food slurry.  Any suggestions on products that would be safe for this application?  Quick tips on application would be helpful as well (I'm clueless), but if it something that's been discussed here, I can always search.  Mainly I just need to know whatever I use is pet safe. 

 

[SittingElf]

I would think that Butcher Block oil or Salad Bowl finishes that are used by bowl turners would be non toxic and safe.  Don't have links at the moment, but you can google.

Good Luck...and think it's great that you care for your family member enough to go to these lengths! [thumbs up]

 

[Michael Kellough]

I'm not certain about it's food safe pedigree  but check out shellac.
It's basically made of bug secretions (as opposed to artificial resins) and dries very quickly.

You could get a few coats on and achieve a smooth lickable surface in one day.

 

[rvieceli]

Take a look at Tried and True finishes. I believe they are all FDA approved food contact safe.

http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/index.html

Woodcraft and Rockler should have them.

 

[stvrowe]

Reference Bob Flexner's book "Understanding Wood Finishing" and specifically the section on 'The Food-Safe Myth'.  He discusses the hype and myths perpetuated by certain woodworking magazines and manufacturers that salad bowl finishes are 'safe' when in fact, these finishes are simply varnish and contain the same driers as the oil/varnish finishes that woodworkers are told to shy away from.  Bob provides a sound basis for his conclusions that all modern finishes that have been properly cured are 'safe'.  With respect to shellac, it is used as coatings for time release capsules and as coatings for some candy so it had better be 'food-safe'.

 

[RKA]

I think shellac might be the ticket.  I found a fine woodworking article which eliminated some of the common finishes because they require frequent reapplication (mineral oil, beeswax, carnauba wax, linseed oil, walnut oil).  I use mineral oil on my cutting board, and that's not what I'm looking for.  I still have to wash with soap/water and rinse then periodically reapply the mineral oil.  I'd prefer something that seals the wood and gives it a water resistant quality.  This should make cleaning a bit easier.  One swipe with a Lysol disposable wipe and I'm done.  Shellac seems like it might be what I'm looking for.  So I'll do a little more digging to make sure there are no other concerns there.  

I did take a look at Tried and True Wood Finish.  It looked interesting but their website raised more questions than answers.  For instance a note somewhere saying prolonged contact with the skin may cause dermatitis and it's not for use on floors (high contact surfaces).  Their website gives no phone number and their contact us page returns an error when I try to submit the form.  I think the fact that they don't recommend it for high contact surfaces may be an indication that this isn't the right product, so I'll let it go.  I could contact Rockler or Woodcraft, but for something like this I'd rather go straight to the horses mouth (manufacturer) and they are inaccessible.  

Thanks for the suggestions!!
Raj

p.s. - thanks Steve.  I'll try to dig that book up at my local library, worse case just buy it.  I have a lot to learn in the area of wood finishes anyway, so a permanent reference on the shelf wouldn't be a bad thing!

 

[Rick Christopherson]

All dried finishes are food safe! So choose the one for the best cleanup. You want a high build gloss so it will wipe down easy.

 

[Stone Message]

Osmo is food safe - use their Top Oil which is designed for kitchen work surfaces.

One of the previous contributers mentioned shellac which would also be good - I used to teach French Polishing but only use my stuff as a brush on sealer now as Osmo is so good. Osmo does not leave a glossy sheen like French Polish but modern homes need modern finishes and I like the 'understated' sheen of Osmo.

Peter

PS - fine looking dog.

 

[JSlovic]

Have you considered a melamine coated ply and edge band the exposed edges?
Another option would be a good epoxy perhaps a marine finish

Good luck I can appreciate how important a project this is

Jack

 

[andyman]

Lovely dog great to see you looking  after him [thumbs up]

 

[mouppe]

Shellac would be perfect but makes sure your cleaning products are alcohol-free.

 

[Frank-Jan]

I don't have anything to add regarding the woodfinish but I saw an animated gif yesterday which reminded me of this thread.

Obviously the upholstery is a bad idea in your case, but maybe the lower sides, narrower back and the fold down tray might be handy. (Allthough I think the folding down part might not be practical at first)

Just out of curiousity: the medical condition, is it something Chili can grow out of, or does he have to eat sitting up for the rest of his life?

 

[Stone Message]

Shellac would be perfect but makes sure your cleaning products are alcohol-free.

Yes, what a waste of alcohol!

When I made my own French Polish I used pure (99.99%) ethyl alcohol as methyl alcohol in the UK is coloured blue and that can affect colour of the polish.

Brilliant animated gif above.

Peter

 

[RKA]

Peter,
I did a bit of reading on Osmo and watched your videos.  I really like the stuff!!  I'm not sure if it will work for this application.  I'll give it a shot, worse case is I sand and put on the coat of shellac.  I think Rick is on the money though, a high build up product would eliminate the ridges inside the grain making for better clean up.  Still, I will use it elsewhere so it won't go to waste.  Not many US dealers unfortunately,  but I called one near my parent's house about an hour away and he has 1 can of top oil and polyx in stock, so I'm picking it up tomorrow.  Thanks for the tip!  Do you think this would work well on my new MFT?...or is that a bad idea?

@Frank-Jan, yes, that was one of the first gif's I found when we discovered his condition!  Absolutely hysterical!  In our case the pipe worked better.  We have to meter the food intake over the span of 60-75 mins, so the table didn't have much value to us and early on it was easier to train with the pipe in place as it was less restrictive and he wasn't so fearful.  I'll tighten up the dimensions of the new one a bit more, but he spends 100 mins or more in there for each feeding and does shimmy around to get comfortable and shift his weight, so I still want to leave a bit of room for that.  And the top of the chair serves as a nice chin rest when he gets tired or bored, so we'll make that a bit more comfortable as well.  That's why you see all that grime accumulating on the side.  We had hoped he would improve as we treated a secondary condition, but that hasn't happened, so it appears this will be lifelong unless we take him to a university hospital and explore surgical (experimental) options, which will involve other side effects.  Aside from the process of eating and drinking, he is happy and healthy!

 

[SittingElf]

Another option.....

Food Safe

 

[Stone Message]

Peter,
I did a bit of reading on Osmo and watched your videos.  I really like the stuff!!  I'm not sure if it will work for this application.  I'll give it a shot, worse case is I sand and put on the coat of shellac.  I think Rick is on the money though, a high build up product would eliminate the ridges inside the grain making for better clean up.  Still, I will use it elsewhere so it won't go to waste.  Not many US dealers unfortunately,  but I called one near my parent's house about an hour away and he has 1 can of top oil and polyx in stock, so I'm picking it up tomorrow.  Thanks for the tip!  Do you think this would work well on my new MFT?...or is that a bad idea?

I have spilt Osmo on my MFT a number of times and would certainly do a complete top. It would be best to do both sides as the Osmo will act as a moisture barrier and if there is no Osmo underneath then it could distort (a tiny bit) in humid conditions.

Peter