What Is Wrong with my $4 MFT Square ?

[Michael Kellough]

@ Cheese, you’re right, stock thickness isn’t an issue as long as it’s within the maximum capacity of a miter saw. If dust collection isn’t an issue that’s an efficient way to work. But even a Kapex makes more dust than is allowable in some circumstances. And, if the work is more than 12” deep it’s back to the MFT.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Let us know how the magnet alignment goes. It may be trickier than you expect.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Let us know how the magnet alignment goes. It may be trickier than you expect.

Sandwich the two squares together, perfectly aligned. Make a tiny hole through, then use a brad point bit to make the recess. By the way you don't need two magnets. One magnet on one side and a flat washer on the other will do (no polarity mistake). Using two rare earth magnets make it stronger but probably not required. If your flat washer end up being recessed (3/16) and the magnet protrude just to kiss it, alignment should be easy.

P.S. Make sure to carve your name on both squares. You never know when a WW walk into your shop with evil intentions  [scared]

 

[Michael Kellough]

Laminating low squares, first I’d make the lamination permanent. There is no problem having a square that is thicker than you need whereas a too thin square is useless (without accurate riser blocks like the 1-2-3s).

If I did want to take a thick square apart I’d just join the pieces with 3 dowels and a couple screws.

 

[Cheese]

Let us know how the magnet alignment goes. It may be trickier than you expect.

Hey Mario, I think Michael is referring to perfectly aligning the 2 squares consistently without a positive stop will be difficult to do. Just throw in a couple of dowels/dowel pins along with the magnets and you're golden. [big grin]

I should add...if this was my project, I'd first fasten the 2 square blanks together with dowels and fasteners and then cut the blanks to the proper size and form. That eliminates any positional/location issues for aligning the squares. The fastener holes could then be turned into counterbores to house the magnets if that's the road you want to take.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Aaaaaah gotcha  [big grin] dowels is a nifty idea and non expensive  [wink] Approved!

 

[Dick Mahany]

I like the dowel idea, but I think I may use dominos since I can get a perfectly square through plunge cut  [smile]

 

[Sparktrician]

Let us know how the magnet alignment goes. It may be trickier than you expect.

Hey Mario, I think Michael is referring to perfectly aligning the 2 squares consistently without a positive stop will be difficult to do. Just throw in a couple of dowels/dowel pins along with the magnets and you're golden. [big grin]

I should add...if this was my project, I'd first fasten the 2 square blanks together with dowels and fasteners and then cut the blanks to the proper size and form. That eliminates any positional/location issues for aligning the squares. The fastener holes could then be turned into counterbores to house the magnets if that's the road you want to take.

If I were going to make my own, I'd glue two blanks of 18mm or 19mm Baltic birch plywood together before cutting out the square, just so both blank pieces would always be in register.  No fooling around with dowels, dominoes and/or magnets.  No muss, no fuss.  Or as they say, "Guaranteed not to rust, bust, or fly apart at the seams."  [smile]

 

[Mario Turcot]

No muss, no fuss.  Or as they say, "Guaranteed not to rust, bust, or fly apart at the seams."  [smile]

What about fire?  [tongue]

 

[Sparktrician]

No muss, no fuss.  Or as they say, "Guaranteed not to rust, bust, or fly apart at the seams."  [smile]

What about fire?  [tongue]

Bring some marshmallows and hot dogs!!!  [scared] 

 

[Mario Turcot]

ahahahhaha you killed meh

 

[jroth33139]

We can comment all day about squares but the problem is more fundamental and that is the MFT/3 drop down rail wanders. We all consciously or unconsciously adopt... " square twice and cut once." and go on the search for a squaring solution. ($$$) Simple question... Is the installation of the modified TSO GRS-16 solving rail wander? Since, with my Parf Guide System, I have other custom MFT's and the dog clips, I find myself using my MFT/3 less often because of the unreliablity of the drop down rail. I have installed that small plastic add-on to the rail that centers the front pin and that helps but I still have rail wander. What are other solutions to the fundamental problem other than this constant search for the right square?

+1 on the TSO rail clips and dogs. I use the medium sized dogs for 3/4. Foolproof and never not square. It has changed my method of work.

 

[Eden1415]

Not a thing.  However, you may want to get a slop stopper for the rail to keep the rail from wandering.  Easier to use then the rail clips when you are still using the flip up hinge.  Most MDF comes pretty square but it easily ding able in transit. 

Once you square the table and rail, check the squareness by making some long wide cuts and then flip one of them (end for end & bottom to top) to see how much difference you get.  I used a 2 x 4 sheet of MDF and used the best edges and sides to create mine, which I cut down to 2 x 3.  Then checked the edges for flatness. 

If you want more perfection, get a CNC machine.  This is woodworking not machining metal for .000001 of a inch flatness.