What is your preferred Festool way to build a craftsman style newel post?

[Grasshopper]

I am a couple posts away from finishing off my kitchen and calling the painters to come and do their thing.  What stands in the way are two 5"x5" pillars that I need to make.  The look I am trying to achieve is similar to this craftsman style painted newel post (a chunky look without a chamfer):

[attachimg=1]

I tried the lock miter method and was defeated in my efforts.

Back to the drawing board, I am seeking advice for alternative methods you guys use in building out newel posts.  I am leaning towards building a 3 3/4"x 3 3/4" box out of 3/4" birch plywood (butt joints and joined by dominos), and then just trimming out with rails and stiles (joined with 18 gauge brad nails and glue).  This will be painted, so brads could be easily covered.  (the issue I haven't figured out, is I don't have a planer, so I have historically relied on S4S stock.  The issue here is I prefer a 1/2" reveal so in a perfect world, my rails would be 1 3/4" wide x 1/2" deep.  I worry that 1x2's would look clunky with the 3/4" reveal hight)

Before I embark, I wanted to see what your preferred "festool" method for constructing craftsman style newel posts.

Thanks in advance.

 

[1951CorrectCraft]

I would use 1/2" MDF.

 

[waho6o9]

I would use MDO ( Medium Density Overlay )

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks for the initial replies.  MDF and other composites are out as I have young kids and these posts will be kicked at least every day.  I will probably go with hard maple for the rails and stiles for durability.

regardless of the materials I end up with, what joinery would y'all use to make the trim seamless?

 

[G3Trim]

I would use kreg jig for frame and miter the stile's and add biscuits or domino's to help keep the miter locked.

 

[overanalyze]

Make your 4 side panels like a cabinet face frame. Route out the back for a 1/4 plywood/mdo insert. Now you have a 1/2" reveal.

Miter, domino and glue the 4 pieces together.

Add some blocking where the rails will tie in. Make a solid filler block for the top and bottom and pocket screw it to the sides.

Add the other trim elements to the assembled post.

 

[bkharman]

I am sad that you gave up on the lock miter bit!  If you want, stick with ¾ MDO and get the matching setup blocks for your bit. MDO routes very well and you might not have the issues you had with maple.

What was the lock bit manufacturer?  CMT?

Cheers. Bryan.

Ps:  in any event, go with MDO. Very nice, stable and durable product.

 

[tjbnwi]

Rip bevel, glue, miter fold the the 4 pieces using masking tape. Add trim elements.

Have you figured out how you're going to install the posts yet?

Tom

 

[Grasshopper]

I like this.  Thanks for the tips.

So would you route out the back for the 1/4" insert after the "face frame" is assembled, or before it is assembled?

Make your 4 side panels like a cabinet face frame. Route out the back for a 1/4 plywood/mdo insert. Now you have a 1/2" reveal.

Miter, domino and glue the 4 pieces together.

Add some blocking where the rails will tie in. Make a solid filler block for the top and bottom and pocket screw it to the sides.

Add the other trim elements to the assembled post.

 

[Grasshopper]

I have yet to use my Kreg jig.  Maybe I'll fiddle with it and see how it would come together.  Thanks for your reply.

I would use kreg jig for frame and miter the stile's and add biscuits or domino's to help keep the miter locked.

 

[tjbnwi]

Before, it is easier and no one will see the over cut once you install the cap on the post.

Tom

 

[overanalyze]

I like this.  Thanks for the tips.

So would you route out the back for the 1/4" insert after the "face frame" is assembled, or before it is assembled?

Make your 4 side panels like a cabinet face frame. Route out the back for a 1/4 plywood/mdo insert. Now you have a 1/2" reveal.

Miter, domino and glue the 4 pieces together.

Add some blocking where the rails will tie in. Make a solid filler block for the top and bottom and pocket screw it to the sides.

Add the other trim elements to the assembled post.

Thanks! I have done similar posts and have done the routing after. I usually use a 3/8" rabbetting bit. I will just put a matching radius on the corners of the 1/4" ply. A little glue and some 23g pins to hold it in place till the glue dries.

 

[overanalyze]

Before, it is easier and no one will see the over cut once you install the cap on the post.

Tom

Good point...you wouldn't ever see it.

 

[Grasshopper]

Bryan,

I too am sad.  I had a lot of hope for the lock miter.  It is pretty frustrating!  I ran last night and purchased some 1x2 pine just to run scrap through as a final test.  Being soft pine, I made the cuts with just one pass, and the joint came out perfect.

Not sure what went wrong with 3 passes on the Maple.  Perhaps the OF1400 met it's match with the harder wood?  Not sure there.

Yes I used a CMT bit, no setup blocks exist.  The frustrating part was I setup the bit to work perfectly with short runs of scrap.  The issue came into play when I'd route the 40" long runs.  I suspect the CMS insert rings may play a role as the hole around the 2" bit is fairly wide when you use the appropriate table insert ring.  I think long runs may have a tendency to get pulled down into the cutter

I've never used MDO before, something to consider.

I am sad that you gave up on the lock miter bit!  If you want, stick with ¾ MDO and get the matching setup blocks for your bit. MDO routes very well and you might not have the issues you had with maple.

What was the lock bit manufacturer?  CMT?

Cheers. Bryan.

Ps:  in any event, go with MDO. Very nice, stable and durable product.

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks for your comment Tom.

For install, I am thinking about a 3/4" thick plywood square inside at the bottom of the post.  I'd run a pair of lag screws up from below through the subfloor and the hardwood (crawlspace below.).

I'm open to suggestions for a better way to do this.

Rip bevel, glue, miter fold the the 4 pieces using masking tape. Add trim elements.

Have you figured out how you're going to install the posts yet?

Tom

 

[Grasshopper]

That makes a ton of sense. 

I'd prefer to route on the table, so before would be the way to go for sure.

Before, it is easier and no one will see the over cut once you install the cap on the post.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Route a dado 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep, in the posts about 6" down from the top. As you assemble the post insert a piece of 1x with a 3/4" hole in the center. locate the post center on the floor drill 3/4" hole. Use a length of 5/8" threaded rod to draw the post to the floor by tightening the nuts on the rod.

Tom

 

[overanalyze]

Route a dado 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep, in the posts about 6" down from the top. As you assemble the post insert a piece of 1x with a 3/4" hole in the center. locate the post center on the floor drill 3/4" hole. Use a length of 5/8" threaded rod to draw the post to the floor by tightening the nuts on the rod.

Tom

Rock solid technique! Very good advise Tom.

 

[Jeffonebuck]

Rip bevel, glue, miter fold the the 4 pieces using masking tape. Add trim elements.

Have you figured out how you're going to install the posts yet?

Tom

. This is the way I've made 90 percent of post I've done.  The other 10 I used a rabbit corner. 

 

[tjbnwi]

Rip bevel, glue, miter fold the the 4 pieces using masking tape. Add trim elements.

Have you figured out how you're going to install the posts yet?

Tom

. This is the way I've made 90 percent of post I've done.  The other 10 I used a rabbit corner. 

That will work also.

Tom