What is your preferred Festool way to build a craftsman style newel post?

[Grasshopper]

The 3/4" sub assembly just seems more "solid" to me.  1/4" panels at foot level (with active kids who do like to kick), seems to be a recipe for future headaches.  Having them break is a concern.  Even if they don't get kicked in, the hollow sound of the panels bothers me some.

The other advantage of the sub assembly is it is a simpler build.  Ultimately, the "correct" way will prevail over simple when push comes to shove.  It really works out, though when simple and the "correct" way are one and the same.

I agree.  Why do you want the 3/4" plywood sub-assembly?  Are you worried about the 1/4" plywood panels being kicked out or broken?

 

[rvieceli]

There is, of course, no reason you can't have the 3/4 inch plywood box AND the 1/2 inch reveal with a 1/4 inch inset panel. Just put the two methods together. Problem solved. [eek]

 

[Grasshopper]

I'd considered that too.  It's just an extra step that would be unneeded if the 3/4" reveal looked good (or if there was a small 1/4 trim piece that made the difference).

There is, of course, no reason you can't have the 3/4 inch plywood box AND the 1/2 inch reveal with a 1/4 inch inset panel. Just put the two methods together. Problem solved. [eek]

 

[deepcreek]

I'm not sure there is a single correct answer.  I've seen it done both ways and my personal preference is for the smaller reveal.

It's your home so do what makes the most sense to you and don't obsess over it.  Either way will look fine.

 

[overanalyze]

Build it with the 3/4" plywood/mdf backer and larger reveal. Then cut 1/4" panels and glue them to the inside of the opening to the 3/4" backer. Solid build, and softer reveal.

 

[Grasshopper]

There's a thought. I could soften the reveal if needed once it's built. Hmmmm?

Build it with the 3/4" plywood/mdf backer and larger reveal. Then cut 1/4" panels and glue them to the inside of the opening to the 3/4" backer. Solid build, and softer reveal.

 

[Grasshopper]

OK,

all my stock is cut down to size, and I am going to be routing 1/4" deep rabbets into the back of all the face frame (and will inset from the back 1/4" baltic birch plywood panels using glue and 1/2" brad nails).

I'm set on the rabbet depth.  How wide should that rabbet be?  Initially I had planned for 1/4" wide as well, but I worry that 1/4" wide may be too narrow to have enough glue surface for the panels.  3/8" comes to mind as a nice round number.

Thoughts?

The stock awaits:
[attachimg=1]

 

[Sparktrician]

I think I'd go with 3/8" (or 10mm). 

 

[waho6o9]

Another vote for 3/8"

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks Willy!

I'm off to dial in the CMS.

  ;D

I think I'd go with 3/8" (or 10mm).

 

[overanalyze]

I think you will be happy with that method. 3/8" is what I use.

 

[Grasshopper]

The 3/8" wide was perfect!  Thanks for the replies.

I am loving this new feather board setup.  Great infeed and outfeed support.

I'm actually pretty pleased with the factory setup right at the bit, keeping pressure on the stock and fingers away.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Rocky]

The 3/8" wide was perfect!  Thanks for the replies.

I am loving this new feather board setup.  Great infeed and outfeed support.

I'm actually pretty pleased with the factory setup right at the bit, keeping pressure on the stock and fingers away.

[attachimg=1]

You should try these, they fit the CMS perfect:

 

[Grasshopper]

I considered those and was close to buying on Amazon.  They look really slick.  One of the reviews said these don't really work with stock less than 3" wide.  Is that your experience?

Also, at $129, does that include infeed and outfeed rollers, or would you have to spend $260?

http://www.amazon.com/JESSEM-Clear-Cut-Precision-Guides-JessEm/dp/B00EZDWLSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424475449&sr=8-1&keywords=jessem+clear-cut+stock+guides#Ask

The 3/8" wide was perfect!  Thanks for the replies.

I am loving this new feather board setup.  Great infeed and outfeed support.

I'm actually pretty pleased with the factory setup right at the bit, keeping pressure on the stock and fingers away.

[attachimg=1]

You should try these, they fit the CMS perfect:

 

[Rocky]

I considered those and was close to buying on Amazon.  They look really slick.  One of the reviews said these don't really work with stock less than 3" wide.  Is that your experience?

Also, at $129, does that include infeed and outfeed rollers, or would you have to spend $260?

Safely 2.5".  the $129 is for a pair.

 

[grbmds]

I considered those and was close to buying on Amazon.  They look really slick.  One of the reviews said these don't really work with stock less than 3" wide.  Is that your experience?

Also, at $129, does that include infeed and outfeed rollers, or would you have to spend $260?

Safely 2.5".  the $129 is for a pair.

If you're talking about the Clear-Cut Guides for the router table, they are $99.95 on the incrementaltools.com site but there would be shipping charges.

 

[Grasshopper]

Sweet!

I considered those and was close to buying on Amazon.  They look really slick.  One of the reviews said these don't really work with stock less than 3" wide.  Is that your experience?

Also, at $129, does that include infeed and outfeed rollers, or would you have to spend $260?

Safely 2.5".  the $129 is for a pair.

If you're talking about the Clear-Cut Guides for the router table, they are $99.95 on the incrementaltools.com site but there would be shipping charges.

 

[Grasshopper]

Update-

I've got all my stock cut down to size and ready for assembly.  I've identified where all the facerframe Dominos will go…now I am debating on the size to go with.

I was all set to use 5x30 dominos, (referencing off the 1/2" side of my domiplate to keep the domino above the rabbets that are 1/4" in from the bottom of the 3/4" deep stock).

The only place I see 5x30's posing a problem is where i have a  1" wide stile rail for the side panels.  The front panel will be joined into the other side of the 1" stile (to the right of where you see the #4 or #5 labeled). You can see on the photo for reference, that the 5x30 could not have a neighbor domino on the right as it would basically make a through tenon.  Disregard the domino to the right of the #4, the domino that will join the completed panel will come at the same angle as the larger domino to the right of the #5 labeled one).

Option A- I could still use 5x30's and just connect the completed panels in a way on the stile just below any intersecting rails.  (Advantage, strength, disadvantage, I'd have to place a domino at a minimum 2" below the top, leaving the potential for the top joint not being super tight.

Option B - Go with the wimpy 4x20's, and sacrifice strength with the advantage being simpler alignment with dominos placed closer to rails.

With these posts being built to support the overhang of a 73" x 51" granite slab, strength is important.  (I assume the 4x20's + glue may be strong "enough" but the 5x30 leaves no doubt.

Thoughts?

Picture of stock laid out for domino locations:
[attachimg=1]

Close-up of "problem area" with 1" wide stile and #4 & #5 dominos for reference:
[attachimg=2]

 

[Sparktrician]

Go with all 5mm dominoes.  In those areas in question, offset the dominoes.  Instead of 15/15, go 12/20 to avoid interference.  Just be sure to think it through thoroughly and take careful notes (pencil on wood) to indicate where you want to create the offset and be extra careful to adjust the DF 500 for the mortise.  Does this make sense? 

 

[Grasshopper]

I was all fired up, optimistic that this would work.

I grabbed a piece  of 1" wide scrap and set the plunge to 12mm with the 5mm cutter.

I plowed both sides to see how close they'd come…and got a through tenon

Even set at 12mm, i measured the cutter out at 15mm (presumably for glue, etc)
.

So I cannot use the 5mm cutter, unless I stagger the tenons and keep the tenon that would connect the finished panels to the other finished panels (and it would have to be 2" or more from the top.

Back the drawing board.  Option A or B?

[attachimg=1]

Go with all 5mm dominoes.  In those areas in question, offset the dominoes.  Instead of 15/15, go 12/20 to avoid interference.  Just be sure to think it through thoroughly and take careful notes (pencil on wood) to indicate where you want to create the offset and be extra careful to adjust the DF 500 for the mortise.  Does this make sense?