Michael Kellough
Member
What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?
luvmytoolz
Member
Michael Kellough said:Frank-Jan said:
What you are describing sounds like the Metabo paint grinder.
I have a version of the paint stripper above which for all intents and purposes is identical to the Metabo, but don't believe it would be suitable for plug planing as it can be a PITA to get the DOC dialled in just right. Although I think a router with a suitable base would be best for trimming the ends, I think a lipping planer like this would be better than the Metabo paint stripping machine:
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Packard
Member
I have the DeWalt 611PK combo package (fixed and plunge bases) and an extra sub-base.
I thought of the plunge base because it would mimic the drill-attached planer in use.
I have a flat bit (dado bit) and I think that would work. I will experiment.
I thought of the plunge base because it would mimic the drill-attached planer in use.
I have a flat bit (dado bit) and I think that would work. I will experiment.
Michael Kellough
Member
Packard said:I have the DeWalt 611PK combo package (fixed and plunge bases) and an extra sub-base.
I thought of the plunge base because it would mimic the drill-attached planer in use.
I have a flat bit (dado bit) and I think that would work. I will experiment.
You don’t need a plunge base although it would be good if the hole in the regular base is too small for the plug to fit inside the hole next to the bit. The plunge base would allow you to bring the bit down onto the plug but some bits do not cut when plunged down. The Amana plug planer has a special cutter.
Ideally (IMO) the hole in the regular base is large enough for both bit and plug and the height is finely adjusted via screw, as in the Dewalt and Milwaukee compact cordless routers. The Makita and most others uses a crude rack and pinion depth adjustment.
Michael Kellough said:Frank-Jan said:
What you are describing sounds like the Metabo paint grinder.
No, It's just a regular palmrouter, with the bit set flush to the bottom of the base, but the base has an open side (Like a horse shoe, or a C
Michael Kellough
Member
Frank-Jan said:Michael Kellough said:Frank-Jan said:
What you are describing sounds like the Metabo paint grinder.
No, It's just a regular palmrouter, with the bit set flush to the bottom of the base, but the base has an open side (Like a horse shoe, or a C
Aha! I don’t recall seeing that but it’s a great idea. Anyone could buy an extra base for their little router and cut a big slot in one side of the base. If the height of the plug is kept below the thickness of the plastic base then you’d only have to slot the plastic base.
That said, the $30 Veritas Flush Cut Saw does a great job of cutting stuff down to within sandable height. The sharp teeth have no set and don’t scratch the surface.
Cheese
Member
I do a lot of work on a metal lathe and need to space stuff evenly off the front of the lathe chuck. Having a singular thin gauge block has always been an issue because you never have exactly what you need. I always need multiples of the thin gauge block.
I've also been recently shimming up assemblies from both ends and again a singular thin gauge block will not work. You simply do need multiples.
I called Woodpeckers and asked if they would sell me multiples of the thinner gauge blocks, they agreed to. I added these to my collection. I now have 3 each of the 1/8", 3/32", 1/16", 1/32", 4 mm, 2 mm, 1 mm & .5 mm gauge blocks.
[attachimg=1]
The nice thing is that the foam insert is easily removed and can be cut down the required distance so that all of these additional gauge blocks still fit within the foam container.
I know people love to hate Woodpeckers but cmon folks...where else do you get this kind of customer service?
Did I forget to mention...these gauge blocks hit my front door 3 days after they were ordered.
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
I've also been recently shimming up assemblies from both ends and again a singular thin gauge block will not work. You simply do need multiples.
I called Woodpeckers and asked if they would sell me multiples of the thinner gauge blocks, they agreed to. I added these to my collection. I now have 3 each of the 1/8", 3/32", 1/16", 1/32", 4 mm, 2 mm, 1 mm & .5 mm gauge blocks.
[attachimg=1]
The nice thing is that the foam insert is easily removed and can be cut down the required distance so that all of these additional gauge blocks still fit within the foam container.
I know people love to hate Woodpeckers but cmon folks...where else do you get this kind of customer service?
Did I forget to mention...these gauge blocks hit my front door 3 days after they were ordered.
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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rmwarren
Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2010
- Messages
- 3,063
Thanks for the tip [member=44099]Cheese[/member] I have a set of their metric blocks I'd like to add to.
I bought 2 sets of import gage blocks on Alibaba recently; they are fine although the only 0.5mm block is 6.5mm for some inscrutable reason.
If you need finer adjustment, .020 plastic shim stock cut it into strips will give you 0.25mm resolution.
RMW
I bought 2 sets of import gage blocks on Alibaba recently; they are fine although the only 0.5mm block is 6.5mm for some inscrutable reason.
If you need finer adjustment, .020 plastic shim stock cut it into strips will give you 0.25mm resolution.
RMW
Packard
Member
Woodpeckers manufactured the gage blocks from aluminum because they manufacture everything from aluminum whether it is the material of choice or not.
A couple of issues for aluminum:
1. Aluminum has twice the thermal expansion rates as compared to steel.
2. Aluminum is soft. Adding hard anodizing will help, but steel that has not been heat treated has a surface hardness 8 times what aluminum does. So aluminum dents and scratches more easily. Hardening steel will increase that gap substantially.
Note: Decorative anodizing will add nothing to the surface hardness (no measurable difference), but “hard anodizing” will. Hard anodizing will bring the surface hardness to the equivalent of case hardened steel, but not to conventionally heat treated steel.
3. You can surface grind steel to +/- 0.0001”. (One tenth of a thousandth) with commercially available grinding machines. You cannot grind aluminum and milling cannot achieve that tolerance.
So, in my opinion, hardened steel gage blocks are a better choice for metal working, where tolerances are tighter and the risk of denting or scratching is greater. Aluminum is OK for wood working.
I did not see where DG mentions what the cost was for these blocks. Amazon.com sells leveling blocks in sets of 10 pieces each for about $40.00 per size. These are not of the tightest tolerance, they are produced to +/- 0.0002” (two tenths of a thousandth), but of tighter tolerance than CNC can produce from aluminum.
Or you can buy a full array of sizes (one of each) in the tighter tolerance.
I don’t have metal machining capability. When I needed a piece made while I was still working, I would ask a favor of one of our tool and die makers, which means that my employer would have been “gifting” me those items. He was probably not aware that he was being that generous.
A couple of issues for aluminum:
1. Aluminum has twice the thermal expansion rates as compared to steel.
2. Aluminum is soft. Adding hard anodizing will help, but steel that has not been heat treated has a surface hardness 8 times what aluminum does. So aluminum dents and scratches more easily. Hardening steel will increase that gap substantially.
Note: Decorative anodizing will add nothing to the surface hardness (no measurable difference), but “hard anodizing” will. Hard anodizing will bring the surface hardness to the equivalent of case hardened steel, but not to conventionally heat treated steel.
3. You can surface grind steel to +/- 0.0001”. (One tenth of a thousandth) with commercially available grinding machines. You cannot grind aluminum and milling cannot achieve that tolerance.
So, in my opinion, hardened steel gage blocks are a better choice for metal working, where tolerances are tighter and the risk of denting or scratching is greater. Aluminum is OK for wood working.
I did not see where DG mentions what the cost was for these blocks. Amazon.com sells leveling blocks in sets of 10 pieces each for about $40.00 per size. These are not of the tightest tolerance, they are produced to +/- 0.0002” (two tenths of a thousandth), but of tighter tolerance than CNC can produce from aluminum.
Or you can buy a full array of sizes (one of each) in the tighter tolerance.
I don’t have metal machining capability. When I needed a piece made while I was still working, I would ask a favor of one of our tool and die makers, which means that my employer would have been “gifting” me those items. He was probably not aware that he was being that generous.
rvieceli
Member
Another good source for reasonably priced shims is a feeler gauge. Removed from the usual card deck holder, they make excellent shims etc.
Ron
Ron
Michael Kellough
Member
Michael Kellough said:
I know some folks will likely cringe at this but for $7.99 https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-piece-63665.html cheap harbor freight feeler gauges make great cheap shims
Packard
Member
from my experience, accurate transfer of dimensions is more important than absolute measurement. Repeatability is the goal.
I use 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4” and 3/8” O.D. Brass tubing that I bought from a hobby store. I’m sure I measured them at one time with a micrometer, but the important point is that when I need 3/16” that dimension is repeatable using these 12” long pieces of tubing.
I used them also for my framing to layout mat decorations. There, again, the absolute dimension is not as important as having the identical dimension on all four sides of the mat board.
I do not use these with a utility knife. I only use them for marking. The tubing is too soft for use with any type of tool.
For those who require more precision and durability with their measuring blocks, these are all available from Amazon at very reasonable prices. (About 1/10th the cost of the Mitutoyo stuff.
https://www.findmallparts.com/collections/parallel-block
I would note that in our tool and die shop, they had Mitutoyo measuring equipment, and a Nikon comparator. The tool and die workers would have been insulted to have to work with non-name measuring equipment.
I use 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4” and 3/8” O.D. Brass tubing that I bought from a hobby store. I’m sure I measured them at one time with a micrometer, but the important point is that when I need 3/16” that dimension is repeatable using these 12” long pieces of tubing.
I used them also for my framing to layout mat decorations. There, again, the absolute dimension is not as important as having the identical dimension on all four sides of the mat board.
I do not use these with a utility knife. I only use them for marking. The tubing is too soft for use with any type of tool.
For those who require more precision and durability with their measuring blocks, these are all available from Amazon at very reasonable prices. (About 1/10th the cost of the Mitutoyo stuff.
https://www.findmallparts.com/collections/parallel-block
I would note that in our tool and die shop, they had Mitutoyo measuring equipment, and a Nikon comparator. The tool and die workers would have been insulted to have to work with non-name measuring equipment.
Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 4,958
ChuckS said:
That was an early lesson that I got on one of my first installs. Comparing tapes with the person you are working with, first thing, before anything gets cut, is a must.
Packard
Member
Measuring tools have been the greatest cause of errors on my woodworking projects. Wherever possible I make a direct transfer of dimensions by placing the part to be cut against what it has to fit. Lacking that option, I prefer a story stick to a ruler.
My second most common cause is my “woodworkers’ dyslexia”, which is most noticeable when I have to install crown molding. My crown molding scrap pile rivals in size the lava from Mauna Loa.
In the “real world” I don’t have dyslexia, only in the world of crown molding.
Woodworkers’ dyslexia in inherited. My parents’ bedroom got new wall to wall carpeting and their door would not close. My dad removed the door and cut one inch off the bottom. It did not help, but it did improve the ventilation so the gap at the top was useful. Note: I have no recollection on how this got resolved. Hanging a new door was above my dad’s skill set. I can still hear in my mind that “No!!!” That he half moaned and half screamed (and that would be 65 years ago). [eek]
My second most common cause is my “woodworkers’ dyslexia”, which is most noticeable when I have to install crown molding. My crown molding scrap pile rivals in size the lava from Mauna Loa.
In the “real world” I don’t have dyslexia, only in the world of crown molding.
Woodworkers’ dyslexia in inherited. My parents’ bedroom got new wall to wall carpeting and their door would not close. My dad removed the door and cut one inch off the bottom. It did not help, but it did improve the ventilation so the gap at the top was useful. Note: I have no recollection on how this got resolved. Hanging a new door was above my dad’s skill set. I can still hear in my mind that “No!!!” That he half moaned and half screamed (and that would be 65 years ago). [eek]
