What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

[rst]

I bought Narex chisels, 6 piece set- 1/8 to 1” and four piece mortise set.  Haven’t had a chance to use them yet

 

[Imemiter]

My 12" Woodpecker Precision Triangle got here yesterday. It's the first WP product I got for myself. I've used the heck out of a plastic Swanson speed square and thought it was time to move up in the world. 

 

[squall_line]

You're in luck, [member=44099]Cheese[/member] ,  they put one on sale today just for you.  [wink]

Unfortunately [member=75217]squall_line[/member] , that's a set of 4 chisels.  [sad]  I just wanted to dip my toes in the water and not strap on a mask & flippers.  [big grin]  About 9 months ago they did offer single bench chisels on sale, I'm sure they'll do it again.
https://bluesprucetoolworks.com/products/optima-bench-chisels

We all know how many times Woodpeckers has offered the same "One Time Tool" for sale.  [tongue]

Their 1" Paring Chisel is on a one-day sale today.

That said, it's not a bench chisel, so it may not the sample you're after, of course, since it's not necessarily made for banging on.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

By-the-by, here is my Veritas Edge Plane. One of three made ….

For squaring corners, use the chisel from a hollow mortice chisel. These are easy to hone with a sharpening cone.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, what's the story behind the One of three? What's so special and why only 3?

Great tip for squaring corners with the hollow mortice chisel.  [big grin]

Veritas (Lee Valley) made three of their edge planes in stainless steel as prototypes for the Anniversary Model. Rob Lee is a good friend of mine, and he made a gift of one to me. It has a very special place in my workshop.

Regards from Perth

Derek

That thing is absolutely beautiful! I'm not a fan of bronze. They feel/work great, but I don't like the look. Polished stainless steel.....fantastic. One of three makes it even cooler

 

[Alanbach]

[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] - I love the wheel adjuster on that Veritas edge plane. My Lie Nielsen’s have a lever adjuster which works but I’m sure that the wheel is easier to dial in (no pun intended).
[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member] - Polished stainless is beautiful but I’m not sure that it can be cast as is needed for these plane bodies. Lie Nielsen does occasionally make a few special planes out of white bronze which is silver in color and just beautiful (albeit expensive). I believe that it is also referred to as German Silver.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I got some new felt polishing pads for the RO125, but they came in the funniest box.
For some odd reason, they are lined up, rather than stacked?
I use them for polishing acrylic and buffing in wax. They work really well for working in hard wax oils too, but it destroys them. Once that stuff soaks in, it will harden and the pad it shot. They are cheap enough to be sacrificial, but you have to be aware that is indeed the case.

Don't use your last one with Rubio on a tabletop before ordering more......your boss is going to need something polished. Ask me how I know  [big grin]
I have successfully adhered a piece of microfiber towel onto an old 320 grit disc, but it's not nearly as nice as the thick felt.

 

[bobtskutter]

Just got an Axminster AP330ST thicknesser, which appears to be same as the Carbatec 13" thicknesser.
It's got a spiral (not helical) cutter head, it seems to use 14.3mm square cutters not the more usual 12mm ones.
I've never had a thicknesser before so I've nothing to compare it against, but it's not too loud (my Dewalt table saw is much louder) and the chip collection is OK if you use a high flow vacuum.  It weights almost 40kg, so it's just about portable.
I tried it out on some old 2x4" decking timbers and it did a great job of cleaning up the surface.

Regards
Bob

 

[ChuckM]

With this technique, you can even do without a jointer:


I sold my jointer after building the sled and recovered precious space in the shop.

 

[PaulMarcel]

With this technique, you can even do without a jointer:

[-snip-]

I sold my jointer after building the sled and recovered precious space in the shop.

Without having watched it, I recognize the sled. I had a pretty good sled setup with easily adjusted shims that stayed in place. Used it a lot when I had access to a decent hardwood dealer where you could get rough stock. Now, I only have places that "pre-plane for your convenience" (and their reduced shipping cost) so I try to never even plane unless I want 1/4" stock.

The local place with gorgeous boards was all happy to announce that they didn't have to raise the prices of their wood despite the global shipping issues. Thing is, the boards looked decidedly thin. Measured some of every species: 3/4" on the dot. wtf.

 

[Cheese]

The local place with gorgeous boards was all happy to announce that they didn't have to raise the prices of their wood despite the global shipping issues. Thing is, the boards looked decidedly thin. Measured some of every species: 3/4" on the dot. wtf.

Just lucky I guess... [big grin]

[attachimg=1]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Though I'm not a "pallet wood" type of builder, there are times when some pretty cool pieces of wood come in that way. We get some really big, custom built, pallets and crates with some nice chunky timber. I stash some off to the side and disassemble them, taking out the good parts. I finally got around to getting a de-nailer.

 

[rst]

Milwaukee M18 5” sander to keep in my van for use with silicone carbide glass grinding discs

 

[luvmytoolz]

Though I'm not a "pallet wood" type of builder, there are times when some pretty cool pieces of wood come in that way. We get some really big, custom built, pallets and crates with some nice chunky timber. I stash some off to the side and disassemble them, taking out the good parts. I finally got around to getting a de-nailer.

These are sensational! Makes you wonder why on earth you never got one sooner!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Though I'm not a "pallet wood" type of builder, there are times when some pretty cool pieces of wood come in that way. We get some really big, custom built, pallets and crates with some nice chunky timber. I stash some off to the side and disassemble them, taking out the good parts. I finally got around to getting a de-nailer.

These are sensational! Makes you wonder why on earth you never got one sooner!

I really don't know? I have a pair of pliers that are specifically made for pulling nails, apparently thinking that was good enough. I'll still need them, but this will have to be easier.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Though I'm not a "pallet wood" type of builder, there are times when some pretty cool pieces of wood come in that way. We get some really big, custom built, pallets and crates with some nice chunky timber. I stash some off to the side and disassemble them, taking out the good parts. I finally got around to getting a de-nailer.

These are sensational! Makes you wonder why on earth you never got one sooner!

I really don't know? I have a pair of pliers that are specifically made for pulling nails, apparently thinking that was good enough. I'll still need them, but this will have to be easier.

Same! But these are so cheap, I think mine was around $50 inc shipping! And works well, I've used it heaps already. Also handy for driving bullet large head nails into stuff!

 

[Duckler]

A few weeks ago I bought a Magnetic Induction Coil Heat tool. These things are kind of pricey, but something of a nothing-else-works buy.
The tool will heat ferrous metal to 850 degrees F in about 60 seconds.
The ones made in USA cost close to $600. I really struggled over what one to buy and finally got one on Amazon; one of the more costly made in China versions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09YCN9VNL?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I had two problems with stuck nuts. Yeah, can you relate?
My angle grinder had a diamond-edged hole saw that seemed to be rusted on. The spindle lock would not stay locked when I tried to remove the hole saw using conventional means.
The flameless heating tool required about 4 heat and cool cycles, but we finally got the thing off.
Did not find rust or corrosion, but a whole lot of concrete dust had lodged in the threads.
The other stuck nut was on my Tormek T-8. So it was only a $100 angle grinder that was rescued at this point.
But to buy parts to salvage the Tormek would have been almost $300. So I was very delighted to do my 4 or 5 heat and cool cycles to get the EzyLock nut off the shaft.
Again, I thought there was going to be rust and corrosion in the threads, but the problem was a build up of the grit from the grindstone.
So this is a long post, but that little heating device works marvelously for heating ferrous metal. I am only getting started on bending wrenches and large nails.

 

[squall_line]

This seems like it could also act as a PSA to try to pay close attention to the threads on grinding tools and wire brush them out after each session.

 

[Mini Me]

My angle grinder had a diamond-edged hole saw that seemed to be rusted on. The spindle lock would not stay locked when I tried to remove the hole saw using conventional means.
The flameless heating tool required about 4 heat and cool cycles, but we finally got the thing off.

I had that problem and the way to get around it is to grip the disc in a vise and don't use the spindle lock at all. Using the pin tool with an impact driver is also possible by welding a nut to the tool and cutting the excess off.

 

[Duckler]

My angle grinder had a diamond-edged hole saw that seemed to be rusted on. The spindle lock would not stay locked when I tried to remove the hole saw using conventional means.
The flameless heating tool required about 4 heat and cool cycles, but we finally got the thing off.

I had that problem and the way to get around it is to grip the disc in a vise and don't use the spindle lock at all. Using the pin tool with an impact driver is also possible by welding a nut to the tool and cutting the excess off.

Glad you were able to solve your problem. But the carbide/diamond core drill has threaded, so the nut was integral to the cutter.
I am pretty familiar with the pin wrench, but your approach was not possible here.

 

[tsmi243]

My angle grinder had a diamond-edged hole saw that seemed to be rusted on. The spindle lock would not stay locked when I tried to remove the hole saw using conventional means.
The flameless heating tool required about 4 heat and cool cycles, but we finally got the thing off.

I had that problem and the way to get around it is to grip the disc in a vise and don't use the spindle lock at all. Using the pin tool with an impact driver is also possible by welding a nut to the tool and cutting the excess off.

Glad you were able to solve your problem. But the carbide/diamond core drill has threaded, so the nut was integral to the cutter.
I am pretty familiar with the pin wrench, but your approach was not possible here.

That's easy, just run the grinder in reverse  [big grin]