What non-marring drill stop do you use or recommend

[ChuckM]

I use these and they offer good results:https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...2245-pair-of-plastic-drill-stops?item=86K6501

However, when I have two larger bits that I need a stop for, the smaller stop is not helping. I'd be interested in other non-marring stops.

 

[Peter_C]

I'd be interested in other non-marring stops.

Drill press. Some are fancier than others.

 

[Bob D.]

In a pinch I have used pieces of plastic tubing cut to the required length and adjusted by shifting the bit in the chuck to get the exact depth. If you use a fender washer positioned over the hole and use some blue tape if necessary to hold it still any burnishing from the drill stop spinning will be on the washer not the workpiece.

The portable drill guides with stop collars work great for this also IF you have the room to use them.

 

[Cheese]

I use these drill stops from Woodworkers Supply. A stainless drill bit collar with an integral Delrin washer on the bottom to prevent burning and burnishing of the wood. The 2 items in the middle of the photo marked 3 mm and 7/64" (.109).

They offer 7 different metric diameters and 9 different imperial diameters.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Packard]

There are plenty available, most for countersinks.  Snappy and Amana tool both have versions:
https://www.google.com/search?q=non+marring+drill+stop&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTz_CIsIXvAhXxmuAKHexzDesQ_AUoAnoECAMQBA&biw=1600&bih=786

The Amana version looks more robust, but I've never tried any of them:
https://www.amanatool.com/news/index/view/id/45/

 

[Josh2]

I have both and find Amana much better (but also more expensive).  The Amana allows you to adjust the depth of the hole and countersink separately. With the Snappy, they are locked down together which makes it much harder to only adjust one of the two

There are plenty available, most for countersinks.  Snappy and Amana tool both have versions:
https://www.google.com/search?q=non+marring+drill+stop&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTz_CIsIXvAhXxmuAKHexzDesQ_AUoAnoECAMQBA&biw=1600&bih=786

The Amana version looks more robust, but I've never tried any of them:
https://www.amanatool.com/news/index/view/id/45/

 

[Cheese]

I use the stainless/delrin collars on drill bits and use the Amana stops for countersinks. The Amana items are really nice and cut cleaner countersinks than the Festool items which are more expensive.

Festool on the left and Amana on the right.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

The Festool has HSS cutting edges while the Amana has brazed carbide inserts.

[attachimg=4]

A comparison between the 2 countersinks in oak.

[attachimg=5]

 

[Packard]

I find that I get cleaner holes using my plug-in drill which spins at up to 3,500 rpm compared to my battery drill which has a no-load rpm of 1,350 and probably spins at about 1,100 or so under load. 

Do you see a similar difference with the countersinks?

I tried to find some data on drill speed, but only found on hard maple and pine; nothing on plywood, mdf or particleboard.  The 1,100 is definitely on the low side for pine and maple; 1,500 is closer to what is best.

I did find a listing for speeds of router bits on MDF, plywood and particleboard and they are 18,000 at the high end, and 15,000 at the low end, so I would imagine a speed higher than 2,000 would make sense for drilling those items.  I have not data however.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/drill-bit-speed-hardwood-softwood-d_1451.html

 

[Cheese]

Yup, that’s the reason I’d really like to see Festool release a newer CXS that’s brushless and that would spin at 2400-2600 rpm. Easier drilling with cleaner entry holes. 1300 rpm is just too darn slow for small diameter holes in wood.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Yup, that’s the reason I’d really like to see Festool release a newer CXS that’s brushless and that would spin at 2400-2600 rpm. Easier drilling with cleaner entry holes. 1300 rpm is just too darn slow for small diameter holes in wood.

The Metabo 4K cordless drill is superb, but 1/4 hex impact drivers work well, usually spinning around 3.2k. Snappy refillable drill holders are best but for me the cheap set of hex shank bits at Harbor Freight are next best because the actual bits are longer than other readymade hex drills. Milwaukee hex drills are very well made but the business end is way too short except for pinching holes through sheet metal.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I bought an Amana non-marring countersink drill when I needed to set a few hundred flathead screws in a custom acrylic panel. Worked well. Didn’t think the Festool version would last.

The panel was designed in NYC, cast in China, flown to France to be heated and formed to a mold, flown to NYC for me to fit to a laser cut and flamed steel 6mm screen which had just been gilded in 23 karat  gold (designed in NYC and cut in China), then flown to Amsterdam to be installed in an oligarch’s new yacht.

 

[Cheese]

I bought an Amana non-marring countersink drill when I needed to set a few hundred flathead screws in a custom acrylic panel. Worked well. Didn’t think the Festool version would last.

The panel was designed in NYC, cast in China, flown to France to be heated and formed to a mold, flown to NYC for me to fit to a laser cut and flamed steel 6mm screen which had just been gilded in 23 karat  gold (designed in NYC and cut in China), then flown to Amsterdam to be installed in an oligarch’s new yacht.

Sounds like an interesting project Michael. [smile]  Did you put anything down on the acrylic to prevent scratches or just use the Amana countersink naked?

 

[TinyShop]

[member=72953]Josh2[/member] - I've got the Snappy version:

...but am confused by your comment regarding its lack of adjustability. Mine features two grub screws; one adjusts the position of the drill bit within the countersink and the other adjusts the position of the depth stop (the latter of which slides up and down on the countersink). From the looks of the Amana version, it's the one that suffers from lack of adjustability not the Snappy version. Or am I missing something?

Also, in case it matters to anyone, the Amana version is produced in Israel so for those wanting to offer solidarity with the Palestinian people (by supporting BDS) it's not an option.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I bought an Amana non-marring countersink drill when I needed to set a few hundred flathead screws in a custom acrylic panel. Worked well. Didn’t think the Festool version would last.

The panel was designed in NYC, cast in China, flown to France to be heated and formed to a mold, flown to NYC for me to fit to a laser cut and flamed steel 6mm screen which had just been gilded in 23 karat  gold (designed in NYC and cut in China), then flown to Amsterdam to be installed in an oligarch’s new yacht.

Sounds like an interesting project Michael. [smile]  Did you put anything down on the acrylic to prevent scratches or just use the Amana countersink naked?

In this case the stock countersink was fine. Complicated to fully explain (NDA in force too) but the countersinks were on the far side of the panel which was backlit, and made of a special variably mottled semi-translucent resin, and the front surface was further ground and scuffed to eliminate reflection.

 

[Michael Kellough]

[member=64030]TinyShop[/member], in Cheese’s Amana photo the set screw that fixes bit projection is barely visible. The button head screw fixes countersink depth.

 

[TinyShop]

[member=64030]TinyShop[/member], in Cheese’s Amana photo the counterbored set screw that fixes bit projection is barely visible. The button head screw fixes countersink depth.

Ah, OK. I see that now. So the designs are similar then. Thanks for clearing that part up.

Still confused, however, with the assessment offered up by [member=72953]Josh2[/member].