What thickness plywood for doors panels

[MavDog]

I am building some built-in units that will have doors that have a beadboard panel in them.  The style of the doors is Shaker.  3/4 poplar will be used for the rails and stiles since it will be painted.  For the beadboard panel should I use 1/2" or would 1/4" be fine?  I realize that if I use 1/2" I will have to route a rabbet so that it will fit into the 1/4" dado on the rails and stiles.  The overall door sizes are 15.5 x34 and 15.5 x 20.  I am planning on 1.5" for the rails and stiles.

 

[farms100]

find out what thickness your suppliers can get, that is likely the limiting factor.

personally I would suggest 1/4 for lightness, and looks.

 

[peter halle]

If you are set on 1.5 inch rails and stiles then likewise I would suggest the thinner material.  Personally I would suggest that if you haven't already drawn the front elevation to scale you do.  The fairly universal 2+" rails and stiles were done for a reason.  A wider rail and stile will support more weight and a closing cabinet door with a 1/2" thick panel sounds different than a thinner.

Just some thoughts.

Peter

 

[semenza]

find out what thickness your suppliers can get, that is likely the limiting factor.

personally I would suggest 1/4 for lightness, and looks.

Ditto.  

Or are you making your own bead board?   If so the Russian (?) 6mm birch is perfect to use with a 1/4" cutter. Comes in 5' x5' (roughly) sheets and is nice plywood, with real plies.

Seth

 

[semenza]

And 1 1/2" (about 38mm)  stiles is too close with little room to spare if you are boring 35mm holes for concealed hinges.

Seth

 

[MavDog]

Thanks for the comments. I will definitely go with the wider rails and stiles. I can get 1/4 and 1/2 from my supplier.

 

[BBuild]

Are you using a rail and stile router bit set or just a straight and slot cutter. If your using a rail and stile set the rail bit will dictate your panel thickness. I have a whiteside shaker door set and it requires a 1/4" panel. It would seem like an unnecessary step to route it again just to go with a 1/2" panel.

 

[MavDog]

I have a router bit set. I do realize that if I go with 1/2" I will need to do a rabbet so it will fit in the 1/4 groove. I thought 1/4 would feel too thin.

 

[semenza]

I have a router bit set. I do realize that if I go with 1/2" I will need to do a rabbet so it will fit in the 1/4 groove. I thought 1/4 would feel too thin.

If you have some 1/4" and 1/2" plywood pieces around do a mock up to get an idea of which you will like better. 

Seth

 

[farms100]

I have a router bit set. I do realize that if I go with 1/2" I will need to do a rabbet so it will fit in the 1/4 groove. I thought 1/4 would feel too thin.

If you have some 1/4" and 1/2" plywood pieces around do a mock up to get an idea of which you will like better.   

Seth

yeah definitely do a mock up.

 

[fshanno]

I really like that rabbeted look on the back of the door.  The back can be just about flush with the inside face of the rails and stiles.  Another plus is that you can go ahead and make the grove as wide as you like. a full 1/4" or even a little more.  Then rabbet the panel to fit the groove way you want it to.  You'll have a stronger stub tenon and you control the fit. 

Some of the stuff I get isn't even 7/32, it's more like 3/16th.  Almost out of self defense I bought an Amana set for plain doors that goes all the way down to 3/16".  The stub tenon is might slender. 

You set on poplar?  I think paint grade European beech completely blows poplar out of the water for almost any application and in almost every way.  In my part of the world the beech is almost as cheap as poplar.