What's Next? Negative Kerfs?

[peter halle]

I seem to have too many Japanese saws but have always been intrigued by the temple builders who can split an ink line with their cuts. I saw this advertisement pop up on a feed of mine and went looking. I have one of the Bridge City Tools retired japanese saws and despite having it for at least a decade, have only made a few delightful cuts with it because I can't replace the blade once I break a tooth. So after looking at this one, and deciding not to participate, I thought of all of you and your interest in all sorts of tools:



Peter

 

[rvieceli]

Peter I think the key words in that description are "careful hands". I am barely competent enough to use a regular pull saw without putting a kink in it if i am paying attention.

Ron

 

[luvmytoolz]

I love my Japanese saws but yes it's pretty easy to put a kink in the blade. One of my curved saws I've split the blade at the handle join which really irks me, but if I'm careful to keep it dead straight it still works fine! ;-)

It's hard to go back to a push saw after using Japanese saws.

 

[WillAdams]

I backed this, and am looking forward to getting it, mostly for small model making.

It is a shame the the new Bridge City Tool Works owners haven't taken up making saws again.

 

[peter halle]

I, at times, may have careful hands, and I have been using Japanese saws since the mid 80's. So I know better. I would have to buy the multi-pack and probably get caught by the "boss". If I am going to be put in tool-purchase-time-out, I think I'd much rather have a Festool that isn't in my arsenal.

Peter

 

[waho6o9]

Japanese saws are awesome. Thanks for posting

 

[Michael Kellough]

I’ve been a big fan of Japanese saws since the late nineties when I found out from Fine Woodworking magazine that the Garrett Wade store was just a couple blocks from where I worked (as the art handler at Heiner Friedrich gallery, which was soon to become the beginning of the DIA art foundation).

Although I was only paid enough to frequent the blemished and returns table at Garret Wade I bought my first ryoba and dozuki saws there. Unfortunately they were meant for softwoods and I abused them on hardwoods, breaking a tooth or two from the dozuki taking all the fun from using it and making those saws relics now.

I have a bunch of dozuki saws now from various sources and the finest is that unobtainable Bride City version which makes a sub 1/64” kerf.
The next best should still be available and I might have bought it from Woodpecker’s? Photos below

 

[Sparktrician]

For those that don't know, there are several types of pull saws - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_saw. Since I use one very seldom, I found it appropriate to buy only an inexpensive ryoba with its two cutting edges. As noted above, it is very easy to kink the blade, and I can only guess how easy it would be to kink a blade only 0.1 mm thick.

 

[Packard]

I have two of those replaceable blade “Japanese” saws. One large, one small.

In the beginning, I ruined one of the blades when I pushed too hard to return to the cutting position. The replacement blade was cheap enough that I shrugged it off. For certain trim operations, the Japanese saw is the best tool for the job. I don’t use them often, but I am glad I have them hanging on my pegboard.

Note: It is quite possible that a genuine “Japanese” Japanese saw might not have been damaged. They might use better steel than the replaceable blade versions.

 

[peter halle]

The hardwood version Michael mentioned appears to be available at Taylor Tools in two different sizes. Their website says that the 21 TPI versions are for hardwoods.

Peter

 

[Michael Kellough]

The hardwood version Michael mentioned appears to be available at Taylor Tools in two different sizes. Their website says that the 21 TPI versions are for hardwoods.

Peter

Yes, that’s it. Currently $40. Pretty sure I paid less when on sale. Kerf is listed as .4mm or .015”

Depth of cut is ~49mm compared to 18mm on the tiny Eiger saw.