Whats so hot about Festool Drills? (Convince me to spend some $$$$ LOL)

I'm one of those few, it seems, that's totally satisfied with my t-15i and C15. I will say that they're great, albeit pretty dang expensive for "drills". The ability to quickly and easily change from Jacobs, to centrotec, to right angle to the rarely used but worth every penny when needed eccentric chuck....I don't own the drywall tip chuck. If you consider its ability to be several types of drill in one, maybe it's not so expensive?  Very light for the power, nice feel with good balance and looong run time make them winners for me. If I didn't need a new drill, I wouldn't run out and buy them. But IF, I was in the market for a new piece, I'd certainly test drive them. This is a good opportunity to try the 30 day money back guarantee. Many people have complained about the lack of power with the impact, but I think it does well. It will drive a1/2X8" lag into a treated post without a pilot. But, I wouldn't expect it to do that all day long...it's a 15V drill for cripes sake. At 15 v itoutperforms my buddies Dewalt 18v for driving lags...
 
bobfog said:
However the one thing to consider is if you buy into the 18v Festool system, whilst the drills IMO aren't anyhing to write home about, you do open the door for some really good tools that are unique, like the 18v TS55 track saw and KH carpentry saws, which are available from no other manufacturer, as far as I'm aware.

Didn't Dewalt have a cordless version of their tracksaw?
 
GhostFist said:
bobfog said:
However the one thing to consider is if you buy into the 18v Festool system, whilst the drills IMO aren't anything to write home about, you do open the door for some really good tools that are unique, like the 18v TS55 track saw and KH carpentry saws, which are available from no other manufacturer, as far as I'm aware.

Didn't Dewalt have a cordless version of their tracksaw?

The dewalt track saw is just as unique as the Makita tracksaw the Bosch and the Mafell.
So maybe "available from no other manufacturer" in North America, and 1/2 the Festool range is not available in North America.., so you have to import most of the good stuff or seek it out.

Back to the drills... The Metabo may also be unavailable in North America. I like the little on I have.
I usually use it if I am not serious, and when I am serious I grab one with a cord.
I have heard good things about Milwaulkee, but I have only tried there 12oz and 40oz... None of the drills.
 
I have 5 dewalt drills. 20v hammer, 20v standard x2 plus 2x 12v drills and 20v and 12v impacts. I still just ordered a cxs and PDC 18/4. I just like Festool and need write offs so why not lol. Also got the centrotec set
 
'Is there any reason to get a Festool drill?"

JD2720 said:
For me, the main advantage of Festool drills over others are the quick change eccentric & 90 degree chucks. 
Festool drills get very limited use in the shop because I a lot of need for the chucks. 
Onsite work is another matter. Festool drills get a lot of use for remodeling & installs because of the eccentric & 90 degree chucks.

Ditto. The special chucks make drilling and fastening inside finished cabinets more than possible. 

If you don't need to do that you're fine with what you have and using a long hex extensioncorrects some of the limitations conventional drill/drivers have. That Milwaukee chuck even holds Centrotek bits securely.
 
I have three of the Festool drills and love the interchangeable chucks.  The offset chuck and the right angle chuck can save the day.  Also I love the triggers and the control they offer.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
I have three of the Festool drills and love the interchangeable chucks.  The offset chuck and the right angle chuck can save the day.  Also I love the triggers and the control they offer.

Peter

The very first time I used my Festool drills I found I needed the right angle chuck to drill a hole in the hinge side edge of a car door.  It was so tight that I ended up getting some stubby hex drive drill bits and used one right off the right angle.  Worked great.

Mike A.
 
mike_aa said:
The very first time I used my Festool drills I found I needed the right angle chuck to drill a hole in the hinge side edge of a car door.  It was so tight that I ended up getting some stubby hex drive drill bits and used one right off the right angle.  Worked great.

Mike A.

It's funny, I think most people who buy there first Festo Drill end up 'needing' to use the right angle almost immediately.
As soon as you get one, you use the right angle so often that you become impressed with yourself for ever managing with out it.
 
I have 18v DeWalt hammer drills, 14.4 DeWalt driver, and 18V Ridgid drills, impacts, and saws.  When I was looking to replace my 10v Bosch drills, I thought I would give the CXS a shot.  Within a week I had the Centrotec installer's set and within 2 months I had purchased a second CXS.  It has become my favorite drill for shop based projects.  It is a small drill, but it had done everything I have thrown at it without complaint.  I liked it so much that I gave the 14.4 to my dad and the 18v stuff has not been touched.  The Ergonomics of the CXS for me are outstanding, which surprised me as I have bear paws for hands. 

Like others have said, the interchangeable chucks are like having 2 or 3 drills in one.  That and if any of the other Festool cordless stuff is in your future, it may be worth checking one out.  On the flip side, you are heavily invested in two different battery formats.
 
Throwback7r said:
The only reason would be to get the C shape. So either a CXS, C15 or C18. Since you said you don't need anything that heavy duty get a CSX You should like it and if you don't return it.

The "C" style is particularly nice in allowing you to work one-handed (thus using the other hand to steady yourself on a ladder or in some cases to help hold a larger work piece in place) much more effectively than is really possible with the "T" style drills.
 
Not to mention less strain using a C style. I've had reduced carpal tunnel problems and A LOT less elbow pain since making the "switch" back to how drills were originally designed where the line was put back into the palm of the hand and out of the thumb joint.
 
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