Where do I find the tool in this video?

woodferret said:
Packard said:
It seems that buffing machine turn at higher RPMs than would be ideal.

And they seem to be like my bench grinder, low on torque.

Maybe they had these machines made to their specifications, and they are not commercially produced.

McMaster-Carr sells arbors (mandrels) that can go on a bench grinder.  Unfortunately, the arbor shaft is 1/2 and the typical backing pads are 5/8-11 threaded.  One would need a bushing to get it to work, hence my 'no' regarding off the shelf-fitment.  That and the fact that I can't say 'yes' for fear of the fact someone slaps it on a high RPM grinder and slices their face off.

But you're a grown-up, so continue at your own riskhttps://www.mcmaster.com/products/die-grinder-arbors/motor-shaft-arbors~/

Example of the fun that can be had with a motor adapter (from AliExpress)
[attachimg=1]

edit: In my brain dead moment, I forgot that you can get 5/8 shafted bench motors... so maybe the extension-only can work.  I'm not entirely sure it'd be secure given the lack of set screws.  Choose your bench grinder side wisely.

Attached with side mounted set screws.  It can’t possibly be centered on the shaft.  It would shake itself to pieces.
 
My lathe chuck has set screws.  The main holding is done by the shaft thread.  The set screws add friction on the threads to keep the chuck from backing out.  I assume the shaft adapters operate on a similar fashion.
 
Packard said:
Attached with side mounted set screws.  It can’t possibly be centered on the shaft.  It would shake itself to pieces.

Packard...95% of all pulleys are SECURED to shafts with set screws. The accuracy of the pulley bore and shaft aligns the pulley with the shaft while the set screws secure the pulley to the shafting. Even pulleys that rely on keying elements still use set screws to secure the positioning of the pulley on the shaft.
 
Packard said:
[…]Maybe they had these machines made to their specifications, and they are not commercially produced.

Hopefully, I will get some feedback from them.[…]

I got a response from Julia.  She sounded polite but wary to my ears.  Like I was after the State secrets (and perhaps I am not a retiree, but a spy).

Dear Packard,

Thank you very much for your email and your interest in our wooden toys.

The machine you mean is especially made for us, to get the typical Ostheimer style.
So I am very sorry but I cannot tell you any name or other secrets about it.
Thank you for your understanding!

I wish you all the best and lots of fun while working with the great material wood,
to make family and friends happy!

Kind regards,
Julia Biggen
 
There are a number of videos on YouTube showing how to mount an angle grinder to a bench to make an effective bench grinder.

If I add a foot pedal switch (dead man’s style, “off” when not pressing on the pedal), would this be any more dangerous to use than that custom made machine that Ostheimer uses?

Would the bearings on my DeWalt angle grinder be up to the task if I added a spindle extender?
 
Upon further reflection, I am going to abandon this rabbit hole.  (I kind of wish that Ostheimer never published that video).

For all I know that disc sanding method might have a steep and long learning curve.

I have a flex shaft for my Dremel knockoff, and a wide range of bits.  I will try making the details (ears, nose, mouth) with the dremel and continue to use round-over bits in my router table to shape the parts.

Thanks for all the suggestions.  If I get the itch again to try this, I will post.

Packard
 
Ya, unless you're industrial prod, it's probably safer to get a jewelry class polisher that typically can be loaded with small flapper sanding discs.  That'd probably get you pretty close, with dremel-type safety.
 
I bought a new 1/2” x 18” handheld belt sander from WEN. 

It looks cheap.

It feels cheap.

Surprise! It was cheap ($37.00).

6307.pt01_700x700.jpg


With it, I can easily mimic the carved appearance that Ostheimer gets with their disc sander.

I have a good handle on vertical and horizontal edges and interior large radius edges.  The exterior radius edges are going to require more practice.

The tool is easy to handle and cuts very (very) fast with the coarse belt.  It will end up being significantly slower than the Ostheimer disc because I need to clamp the part to work on it.  There will likely be 6 or more clamping positions required.

That was the reason I wanted to hold the piece, and not the tool. If you hold the piece, selecting the new angle of attack takes almost no time at all.

For my situation, this is probably the best bet.

I do need to find a solution to the clamping issue.  I was thinking a double screw clamp.

I will look around and see if I can find something better.

images


 
It sounds like you may need the Proxxon FMZ style ball clamp.  It'll let you quickly reorient the small piece so that you can get your sander into position, rather than try and contort to do those radii.

I'm also more partial to using a Foredom/Dremel which is easier to maneuver than that finger sander, so my suggestion may be biased.
 
My Dremel-look-alike (from Northern Tool) includes a flex shaft.  What it does not include is Foredom’s torque.

I will take a look at that clamp.
 
onocoffee said:
How about a clamp from outside the World of Woodworking?

I use quite a few of what we call Magic Arms to mount and maneuver all sorts of things. I like the double ball joint Magic Arms but they can be fitted with all sorts of clamps and accessories.

Here's a link to BH Photohttps://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/sear...xGUHLI0phCiYtWnb2lpUlpJ9h_uN67qoaAsqgEALw_wcB

As mentioned above, I do have an Arca Swiss Z-1 ball head, which provides the attachment point between a camera stand and a camera.  It is rated for upto (as I recall) 10 pounds.

I’m a bit reluctant to use it in the rougher environment of woodworking as it cost over $600.00, and is still available at that price.  But I do have it and it is not being used.  Maybe.

The guy wore a black shirt, so in much of the video, it blends in with the shirt.  Dumb.
 
Packard said:
woodferret said:
It sounds like you may need the Proxxon FMZ style ball clamp. […]

I’m not finding it:
https://www.proxxon.com/us/search.php

I do have an Arca-Swiss ball head.  I might be able to adapt that.

That's weird.  You guys only get the FMS down there in US Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=proxxon+precision+vise

That's the suction one.  The FMZ is clamp based and you can get direct from Proxxon US.
https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/28608.php

 
[member=74278]Packard[/member]
$600 is a pretty serious ballhead. There are a bunch of other clamping options that won't cost too much - even cheap ballheads are available.
 
onocoffee said:
[member=74278]Packard[/member]
$600 is a pretty serious ballhead. There are a bunch of other clamping options that won't cost too much - even cheap ballheads are available.

I got a deal on it when the camera store ordered it for a customer and then the customer backed out.  I bought about 35 years ago and it still is in production.  The price was $600.00 back then and I see it has not changed, so effectively it is cheaper today.

My camera stand is still in production.  I’m going to see what that’s worth.

Addendum:  I paid $900.00 for the camera stand back in 1990 (give or take one or two years.  The current price is $3,659.88.

There was an extra charge to cut it down from 8’ to 7’.  I don’t remember what that was.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...MIhOfcufCHigMVtDAIBR3n-x3fEAQYBCABEgLXRvD_BwE

 
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