Which Domino should I buy? 500 or 700
- Thread starter CG Design
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CG Design said:
Howdy CGD,
For cabinet making, the D500 is the sweet spot. For face frame assembly and cabinet carcase assembly with sheet goods and mostly 3/4" stock the D700 is overkill...that said, for doing large doors and things like joining farm table legs to aprons, for example, the D700 is a sweet spot. The D500 maximum domino thickness of 10mm and if you use the rule of threes, the maximum thickness of stock would be about 30mm, or a bit less than 1 1/4". Also, on the D500 the maximum plunge depth is 28mm, or just over an inch. The D700s real strength for anti racking strength is the maximum plunge depth of 70mm, or a bit less than 3". Combined with the 14mm maximum thickness and the width, these things have the potential to make extremely strong, large joints. There's a guy in France that fastened a deck to the side of an old farm house with such. If you have a full service Festool dealer anywhere near you, go in and ask for a demo.
I have the 700 (my 1st Festool purchase) with the seneca adapter. That combination just does it all. Even though it is bigger than the 500, i just love the balance of the tool and it is so easy to use. It is extremely versatile. I did pick up the Mafell ddf40 late last yr and i have just fallen in love with that machine for its ease of use and accuracy. I have absolutely no regrets with either of these machines and will keep them both for a long time.
waho6o9
Member
I'd buy the D500 in conjunction with the seneca adapter.
Birdhunter
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Get it over with and buy both. You will eventually find a compelling need for the one you didn’t buy first. Get both now and you will use both. They are a joy to use. Don’t buy add-on accessories until you master the machines. I have a drawer full of gadgets I never use. There is only one that I use a lot.
Buying the cutter & tenon assortment makes sense economically. For the 500, get a couple of extra 4mm and 5mm cutters. The 4mm is a tad fragile.
New Brit Workshop and Halfinchshy have excellent tutorials.
Practice!
Enjoy!
Buying the cutter & tenon assortment makes sense economically. For the 500, get a couple of extra 4mm and 5mm cutters. The 4mm is a tad fragile.
New Brit Workshop and Halfinchshy have excellent tutorials.
Practice!
Enjoy!
Cheese
Member
Birdhunter
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I agree with the above recommendation for the 500. The one accessory I use often is the Big Foot from TSO. The Big Foot increases the stability of the 500 for many cuts. I’ve got the 1st edition. I think the newest model has increased capabilities.
Watch videos and practice on scrap. After years of using the Domino, I’ve become expert in filling in misplaced mortises. I do use rolls of blue tape marking part orientation and mortise location.
Again, buy the cutter tenon kit. Buy an extra 4mm and 5mm cutter. The machine should be spot on out of the box. You may have to adjust the cursor (I did) and Halfinchshy tells how).
Watch videos and practice on scrap. After years of using the Domino, I’ve become expert in filling in misplaced mortises. I do use rolls of blue tape marking part orientation and mortise location.
Again, buy the cutter tenon kit. Buy an extra 4mm and 5mm cutter. The machine should be spot on out of the box. You may have to adjust the cursor (I did) and Halfinchshy tells how).
I’m a hobby guy and new as well. I bought the 500 and I ran into the the table legs to apron issue described above. I also think it was great advice not to buy a bunch of accessories until you master the tools.
For me personally I’m learning the the tools have more capabilities than I realize. You see quite a few things for sale here on the classifieds of accessories guys buy and sell because they simply didn’t use/need.
For me personally I’m learning the the tools have more capabilities than I realize. You see quite a few things for sale here on the classifieds of accessories guys buy and sell because they simply didn’t use/need.
Mike Goetzke
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I'm a hobbyist and bought a 500 when they just came out. It had the disease of the slipping fence. Sent it to Festool for repair and seemed better but lost confidence in it so sold it. Then several years later I had need to build a crib for my granddaughter and the design had many slats. I decided these could easily be constructed with a Domino jointer if I made the slats in the form of a long tenon. I happened to find a slightly used 700 with the small mortise adapter for an excellent price. I enjoyed using this 700 for a couple years but I had never used a tenon over 8mm and was getting tired of using spacers and offsets when building shelves in 3/4" lumber. Then I purchased an Emerald edition 500 and sold the 700 and couldn't be happier.
Bugsysiegals
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I bought the 700 with Seneca adapter thinking it would be able to do all but ended up selling it and buying the 500...
Something I didn't come across when buying the DF 700 was that the center of the bit from the base on the DF 700 is 15mm while for the DF 500 it's 10mm. If you're working with 3/4" (19mm) material, and decide to Domino a shelf in the middle, the DF 700 is not able to center the Domino, if using it the way it's intended, whereas the DF 500 will.
Something I didn't come across when buying the DF 700 was that the center of the bit from the base on the DF 700 is 15mm while for the DF 500 it's 10mm. If you're working with 3/4" (19mm) material, and decide to Domino a shelf in the middle, the DF 700 is not able to center the Domino, if using it the way it's intended, whereas the DF 500 will.
The DF500 serves my needs 100%. For larger pieces, I've used it to build coffee and dining tables, a credenza and casework. Numerous hardwood cabinets, of course. Ladders, louver shutters, stools/steps, etc.
Chairs are on the drawing board (building isn't the hard part, coming with up a design that is elegant and robust has taken much longer than anticipated -- I have no desire of making plain chairs) and a double bed is also in the pipeline. No, you don't need a DF700 to build any of them, contrary to what someone might have told you. The trick lies in knowing when to design and use double or twin tenons.
I don't build or plan to build any full size-doors or outdoor tables for 12. If one day (very unlikely) I do need to build those, l'd use M&T -- by hand or with a router (don't want to buy another dowel drilling jig). If these two items are what you want or plan to do, get a DF700.
The best advice I'd give is to try out both at your local vendor, if possible. Handling it (make some test cuts if they allow you) to see how they feel to you (and then imagine doing that a hundred times -- 100 mortises milled in one single session is not a lot -- if you end up loving the machine as many do!).
Chairs are on the drawing board (building isn't the hard part, coming with up a design that is elegant and robust has taken much longer than anticipated -- I have no desire of making plain chairs) and a double bed is also in the pipeline. No, you don't need a DF700 to build any of them, contrary to what someone might have told you. The trick lies in knowing when to design and use double or twin tenons.
I don't build or plan to build any full size-doors or outdoor tables for 12. If one day (very unlikely) I do need to build those, l'd use M&T -- by hand or with a router (don't want to buy another dowel drilling jig). If these two items are what you want or plan to do, get a DF700.
The best advice I'd give is to try out both at your local vendor, if possible. Handling it (make some test cuts if they allow you) to see how they feel to you (and then imagine doing that a hundred times -- 100 mortises milled in one single session is not a lot -- if you end up loving the machine as many do!).
woodferret
Member
I'd wish they'd explain which part of a table needs the Ø12 - legs. The table top itself should survive on a 500 since it's the edge-edge glue joint that's holding it. Heck, even biscuits can be used.
I think for the OP, the choice is the 500 unless they're really planning on doing a lot of tables that somehow have flush legs/aprons. Luckily, most aprons are inset so you can just hand rout those.
The only thing table-related that might need a 700 (if you're lazy) is the breadboard. Personally, I'd think you should break out the router for it anyways since you should be doing a haunched tenon.
I think for the OP, the choice is the 500 unless they're really planning on doing a lot of tables that somehow have flush legs/aprons. Luckily, most aprons are inset so you can just hand rout those.
The only thing table-related that might need a 700 (if you're lazy) is the breadboard. Personally, I'd think you should break out the router for it anyways since you should be doing a haunched tenon.
ChuckM said:
Chuck M-I never built a chair and I never intend to, but I agree that the design is the hard part. If you remember the movie "The Patriot" in the beginning Mel Gibson was in his barn trying to build a rocking chair that was both elegant and robust. He would test it out and it kept collapsing. So yes, even I could make a chair out of a stump, but getting both elegant and robust more difficult that it appears.
Jim_in_PA
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krudawg said:
The decision on whether or not the Domino 500 or the Domino 700XL is best revolves around the kind of work someone does, not whether or not they are a hobbyist or a pro. Many hobbyist build big things that would benefit from the larger mortises and Domino tenons that the Domino 700XL provides just as many folks who do work for others build small things that benefit most from the small 4mm and 5mm mortises and tenons that the Domino 500 excels at. At the time I bought my Domino 700XL, I was not doing work for others and wanted the larger media for the kinds of projects I intended to use it for. While I have the Seneca adapter and all the small cutters, I've only used them once...and that ironically was for something I was getting paid to make,
If money was no object, my answer to the original "500 or 700" question would simply be: "yes" followed by the work "both".
Bugsysiegals
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This reminds me of impact drivers ... several years ago when I started buying all my wood working tools to begin making cabinets somebody said I should be a 12V impact driver.
I never thought I’d appreciate such a small tool compared to 18/20V cordless tools but let me tell you, my 12V Milwaukee Fuel Impact driver is my most used tool. The battery lasts a long time and it’s incredibly powerful ... in fact, I framed my entire basement on almost a single battery! Is a 18/20V stronger and faster, absolutely, but ... the 12V is sooo light. Imagine holding your arm out with a 20lb weight for several hours vs a 5lb weight ... it’s easy to see why I’ll always grab the lighter impact unless the lighter tool cannot get the job done.
Speaking of lighter tools, this is why it was recommended ... so when you’re reaching inside a cabinet and driving tons of pocket holes with your arm extended, it doesn’t become a weight lifting session or cause fatigue.
All this to say, if 90% of what you’re building consists of smaller stock, and you can double Domino’s for the occasional large item, the DF 500 is the winner in my opinion. This again coming from someone who had a new DF 700 and sold it for a loss to get the DF 500.
I never thought I’d appreciate such a small tool compared to 18/20V cordless tools but let me tell you, my 12V Milwaukee Fuel Impact driver is my most used tool. The battery lasts a long time and it’s incredibly powerful ... in fact, I framed my entire basement on almost a single battery! Is a 18/20V stronger and faster, absolutely, but ... the 12V is sooo light. Imagine holding your arm out with a 20lb weight for several hours vs a 5lb weight ... it’s easy to see why I’ll always grab the lighter impact unless the lighter tool cannot get the job done.
Speaking of lighter tools, this is why it was recommended ... so when you’re reaching inside a cabinet and driving tons of pocket holes with your arm extended, it doesn’t become a weight lifting session or cause fatigue.
All this to say, if 90% of what you’re building consists of smaller stock, and you can double Domino’s for the occasional large item, the DF 500 is the winner in my opinion. This again coming from someone who had a new DF 700 and sold it for a loss to get the DF 500.