Which Router combination to buy

Reinhards

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I am a newbie to serious woodworking, but am growing more and more fond and can see this to be a longterm hobby that will grow. I now want to buy my first Router but need some advice as to which Festool router to buy. I have read many posts on many forums, and have searched FOG but could not find a really applicable thread - if it exists, please direct me to it.

From all the threads I have read, I realise a handheld router plus a second router in a router table is where I will end up. Mounting onto a table and removing a handheld router from a router table will be a pain. So the goal is to have one router permanently mounted in a table, and the other as a handheld. I also notice that many guys have a third smaller router  (1/4") for finer/ lighter handheld work.

Some manufacturers have a Fixed base and a Plunge base router combination, which seems like a good solution for a first step. (mounting the fixed base in the table and only swopping the motor)  But Festool doesn't have this, and the OF1400 is not ideally suited for  mounting under a table. I am therefore considering a Triton (with a 12mm collett) under the table, and either the OF1400 or the OF1010 for handheld. I think that a third smaller router will be long way off as other tool priorities will come first.

My Questions:

1)  To choose a handheld router between the OF1400 and the OF1010. What do all the expereince men  recommend? Can I get away with only the OF1010 for handheld work for 80% of the time? Please explain your recommendation. I seem to be leaning towards the 1010?

2) Apart from size (power and weight) the other main difference is Collett size. How often are bits with a 12mm shank used in hand held applications?  This question will help me to decide on bit purchases as well as beyween the OF1400 and OF1010

3) When buying router bits, should I generally standardise on 8mm shank bits, and only buy 12mm shank bits for the larger diameter bits?  When to consider the smaller 6mm (1/4") shank bits.

I live in a metric based country in Easter Europe.
 
Hi.
My first and only router until today is the 1010.
I like it very much and for me it covers my needs with a good combination between power and handling.

I don’t see the need for 12mm shank bits in handheld purposes. I think if you need such a big bit, a router table is the safer approach.

That being said, I am currently eying the MFK700, because it looks so handy for a lot of the tasks I actually do. (Routing slots, corners etc.)

The 1010 does this well, but it still is quite big and unwieldy if you are working around 9-21mm thick boards...

I would suggest to look into a MFK700/Triton combination, but then I don’t really know your use cases and requirements. :)
 
All three of the Festool routers are great tools. In my opinion, the "best all around" router from the set is the OF1400. It has the power to do heavier work, yet can handle light tasks, too without being overly cumbersome. And with four different collets available, it will handle any size cutter that's safe to use hand-held as well as those requiring table mounting for safety. (It wouldn't be a good choice for hogging with truly large bits in a table, however) The accessories, such as guide bushings, are a little more refined than the smaller OF1010, too. I own both of these machines and generally use the OF1400 the most. While it's true that the OF1010's capabilities will handle most any hand-held task, a lot of my router bits are 1/2" shank (so I only need one of a given configuration regardless of hand-held or table use), so I use that machine a lot less just for practical reasons.

The OF2200 is a "beast"...and will do some pretty heave work when that's necessary. I don't own one of those. My table has the venerable PC 7518 mounted there for almost couple decades now. (long before I discovered Festool)
 
"The OF2200 is a "beast"...and will do some pretty heave work when that's necessary. I don't own one of those. My table has the venerable PC 7518 mounted there for almost couple decades now. (long before I discovered Festool)"

That PC 7518 is also a bit of a monster! It is one router I just about never use without holding onto BOTH handles [scared]

Gerry
 
For a newbie I would go for the OF1400 as it will easily cope with larger bits and be usable in a table as needs be.
In 30 odd years working with routers I own only one 8mm shanked one that was supplied with a jig, stick to 6mm/1/4" or 12mm/1/2"
shanked bits.
Most of my work is done with the OF2200 in or out of the table (swapping out of the CMS table is no big chore) but I do own a Dewalt version of the old Elu177e that gets rare use and a Freud 1/4" that gets even rarer use. My next router purchase will be the OF1400 so I can finally bin the Dewalt.

Rob.

 
Good move on the Triton.  I have mine permanently set up in the router table, and it hogs anything I can throw at it.  And once you have above the table adjustment on your router table, you wonder why you you would ever do anything else.

As for the choice of handheld, it kind of depends on what projects you have in mind going forward, but if you stick with woodworking long enough there will come a point where you really want a handheld router with 1/2"/12mm bit capabilities.  You can do most of your dadoing with 8mm bits, but it will usually involve more and shallower passes than if you were operating with a 12mm bit.  A lot of people like to work these days with spiral bits for doing super clean dadoes, but you would be limited with the 1010 to spiral bits under 8mm in diameter.  Any large profiling bit requires a 12mm shank, and there are all sorts of situations where the workpiece being routed, whether because of its size or curvature, will require you to do it by hand rather on the table.  If you ever get into flattening/milling boards, you will have to use the sort of large diameter straight or dish carving bit that only comes in 12mm format.  Or of you're making deep recesses and/or mortises, you'll need the greater plunging depth and strength that only a 12mm capable router can provide.  And you will also find that flush trimming and pattern work is usually more expeditious with a 12mm bit than a smaller one -- though a lot of that type of stuff can admittedly be done on a table router.

I don't think the 1010 is a bad choice, though, especially given the horizontal routing capabilities you gain with the edging plate accessory (also works with the 1400, but it's more cumbersome).  If you're just starting out, the 80% coverage figure may be about right.  And there are definitely situations I run into where the 1400 is too large to balance comfortably on the piece being routed, whereas the smaller base of the 1010 provides more control.

Another way to think about it is that you are also leaving room to expand in the future, perhaps by purchasing the 2200!
 
Go with the 1400.  If it's your only router for now it will cover a broader range than the 1010.  I have the 1010 and the 1400 and reach for the 1400 most times.    Just a few notes:

1.  The fence on the 1010 is laughable.  Nowhere near as nice as the 1400.
2.  The 1400 has quick changing inserts on the base plate for edge routing, copy ring, etc.  It's a really nice feature.  The 1010 requires you to remove screws, which I never want to do and just end up accepting the dust.
3.  If you're doing rabbeting the 1400 has dust collection on the fence, the 1010 does not.  It makes a large difference
4.  The 1010 is a 27mm hose only.  The 1400 can use 27 and 36mm hose.  The large hose really improves airflow and dust collection.  The dust port can also be removed quickly from the 1400 with the flick of a lever.  Often times when I'm aligning a piece and setting something up I'll remove the hose to give me more freedom of movement.  Then I'll snap it back on quickly.  Much easier to do that wrestling with the 27mm hose on and off the oval dust port on the 1010.
5.  Changing bits on the 1400 is much, much easier.  Not only because of the ratcheting mechanism but because of the clearance for the wrench.  It's a pleasure to use.
6.  If you're doing mortises the 1400 is a better choice because it accepts stiffer 1/2" bits and has the power to really drive the larger spiral bits.

Go with the 1400, you won't regret it.

As nice as the 1010 is I'll probably be selling mine.  I only use it for edge treatment at this point and it's too big of a machine for that application.  I'd rather have a much nimbler fixed base machine like the Makita cordless. 
 
Oldwood said:
That PC 7518 is also a bit of a monster! It is one router I just about never use without holding onto BOTH handles [scared]

I never used it hand-held...it was purchased specifically for my router table, but yea...it would likely be pretty scary to hold. The folks that did our soapstone counters used one for edging and routing out the drain board. :)
 
I would certainly buy the OF1400, I moved to this from the much heavier and somewhat awkward DeWalt routers. The OF1400 is really simple to set up and easy for a beginner to master their craft.

If you want something to practice with first or even keep as a second router, have a look on ebay in you country for Katsu routers. There is an opinion that they are made in the same factory as Makita. However, on ebay UK they retail for £31($42) or for the full kit £78 ($100). A lot of the trade guys over here really rate them. 

A perfect tool to practice on some scrap wood and then appreciate the smoothness of the OF1400 and its money not wasted as it is still a capable router
 
I’ve been using a Festool 1400 almost exclusively although I own the 1010 and 2200. The 1400 handles the 1/2” shaft bits I like to use. It has plenty of power.

I’ve built many router tables. My current one has a PC motor mounted in a commercial lift. The table uses a commercial top and fence. The body of the table is a Kreg frame that I enclosed for dust collection.

The PC motor fits most if not all commercial lifts and is very powerful. I just don’t like fumbling with a plunge router under a table. The combination of the PC motor and a lift seems to be ideal to me. All the controls are easy to reach and easy to see.

I have added a safety feature to both my router table and my drill press. I run the power to the router through a foot operated switch. As long as I am stepping on the switch, the router has power. Lift my foot and power to the router is cut off. If something goes wrong on the router table, I can back away and the router stops. I don’t have to be groping for a power switch while the router is running amok.
 
If you have never owned a router or used one before then the OF1010 is a good one to start with. It is easy to use, has far better dust collection than the OF1400 and will leave you with some extra cash to buy router bits or put towards a CT extractor.

The OF1400 is a more capable router as it can take the larger shank collets (12mm and 1/2"). Its dust collection is not a patch on the OF1010 and I am on my second (plastic) dust port as the original was knocked and broke.

This may help:


and for the OF1010:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Peter
 
I own a OF 1400 and have used it for many many tasks since 2008, but I also have two other routers. A Dewalt DW621 "compact" router and the "classic" Porter Cable 690 in a Bench Dog router table. If you asked me to pick just one, I'm not sure I can answer. I use them all. For me, I actually need both a powerful router like the OF 1400 as well as a smaller trim router like the Dewalt. For example, the OF 1400 for grooves, dados, rabbets, my dovetail jig, and mortising (I have an old Mortise Pal), but it is way too large for some tasks like routing out a recess for hinges. For me, it was worth investing more in Festool for the larger workhorse than smaller workhorse, but would I like to have both? Of course. I think the OF 1400 blows away any and all competition, but while the 1010 is almost certainly superior, other companies make some very nice smaller trim and compact routers for a great price.

Maybe I am lazy or very picky, but I do not want to waste one second putting my hand routers in a table. Festool or not. Being able to walk right up to my router table and my Woodpecker lift is one of the best things in my shop. For me it is worth every penny.
 
I'm with Peter on the OF 1010 as the first one.  It really shines all around, but it really shows off its versatility when used with the LR 32 and when doing dovetails.  It's light and just fits the need very well.  I own all four of the Festool routers, and each has its niche in which it really shines.  The OF 2200 is the workhorse, and despite its power, it's really quite well-mannered.  The OF 1400 is a top-notch general-purpose machine for site-work.  YMMV... 
 
First off... hey [member=66635]Reinhards[/member]  [welcome] to the Fog!!

Secondly, what will you be using the hand held router for? What projects are you planning on doing?
The router use may dictate which router to purchase.

I'd tend to start with the 1010 however, it really depends upon your projects.
 
So far I havent felt a need for anything more than what the OF 1010 and OF 1400 combo can handle. If I had to get just one it would definitely be the OF 1400 since it does both 1/4" and 1/2" bits. Anything larger I use the PC 7518 thats permanently mounted in my router table.
 
Wow FOG members! I did not expect so many responses so soon!  Thank you. But from all your replies I still don't see a clear cut winner.  [unsure] :-\ 

But I think it will be a safe buy to start with a OF1400, being an all rounder. TheSergent really pointed out some limitations of the 1010, which are persuasive, although the lower price of the 1010 will allow me to fit in a Table router (maybe Triton) sooner. A larger table router can then also be used occasionally for more heavy hand held work if the need arises.  I do not foresee that I wil be doing a lot of dovetail work, but I will defenitely someday give it a try.

I think I will mostly be doing edge work, (I guess the OF1010 will suffice for this)  and a lot of dados, grooves, mortising etc. for which the 1400 seems to be more suited.

On the issue of bit sizes, to me it seems that 8mm shank size is more popular in Europe, than in the USA. 12mm is also widely used here. Am I correct assuiming that I would use more 12mm bits in the Router table?  And 8mm shank size more for the handheld ?  But If I already have an 8mm bit in the table router, will changing the colletts in the table router be a pain?

Once again  for all the responses.

Reinhard
 
I own 13 routers, PC, Bosch, and Festool.  Trimmers to beasts and every thing in between...1400 would be my first buy starting over...great choice.
 
Reinhards,
Welcome to FOG. 

I started with a Festool OF1400 a few years ago.  I thought about getting the OF2200 and then a smaller Festool router at that time.  That got a little pricey for me.  So I went with what I thought would be the best all around router and bought the OF1400.  My plan was to use the OF1400 until I had a project than required more/different capabilities.  To date I have not had a hand routing project the OF1400 could not handle.  I for one am happy with my purchase and have not purchased another router.  I did however use the money I eventually thought I would use on a second router on a DF500 so Festool got my money just the same.

Once again, welcome to FOG. 
 
I'm in the market for a new router, lookiing at the 1400 to replace the old makita just waiting for festool to add led lights to their range.
Am I in for a long wait.
 
Harry1561 - yes, I agree that an LED light will be great. I looked at some other routers, particularly the Bosch range. Their users really praise the LED light. I can imagine this would be the same where sometimes even shadow of the tool that you use can be annoying. Once you have used an LED on a drill, it becomes a must have feature.

SoonerFan - I have been an international nomad for a couple of years, living in apartments in various countries, and eventually gave my stored tools to my brother. Then got married again, and started to collect tools to do little tasks. My wife was so impressed with the simple things I was making for her, that she asked what my dream tool was - then she gave me an CSX ddil for Christmas. Now I have a wife supporting my Festool needs......  SoonerFan,  If the 1400 meets all your routing needs, do you not sometimes need a router table? Or do you fit the 1400 into a table? From what I read it is not ideally  suited for that unless it is a Festool table.
 
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