Which Router Table for 1400

[kilo]

I am new to woodworking tools and to Festool.  I am trying to set up a semi mobile shop to do hobby work for my family and friends.  I started with the concept of trying to stay table saw less.  I have the CT26, two MFT tables, mobile work center, T55, domino 500, 1400 router.  I feal like I need a router table option.  I am torn between the CMS, router tables that attach to MFT, etc.  My main work space is in the center stall of a 3 car garage.  It seems there are varied opinions about attaching the 1400 to a table.  I don't mind investing the money for the right solution as I have waited years to do this.  Any suggestions/opinions would be helpful.

 

[PeterK]

Probably not helpful but - -
Most people end up with multiple routers. Some are crazy enough (like me) to have dedicated routers for specific tasks.
A router table is better served with a permanent router. Depending upon your usage could be something in the 2HP range but bigger is better. The old standard is the PorterCable 7518 3-1/2HP router with variable speed.
The Festool 1400 shines as a hand held router. It would be frustrating to mount and dismount it frequently.

 

[kilo]

That is very helpful!  I have been picking that sentiment up from some reviews so far.  I have been tempted by the CMS because I could fold up with router installed and put away when not needed.  Is the main deficiency of using the 1400 in a stationary table lack of power?  For a simple task of cutting panel groove for shaker style doors I have been frustrated trying to use my track and guide on the MFT3

 

[PeterK]

The advantage - to me - of a big router is that it can hold speed while spinning a large diameter bit. For me this results in far less burning of the edges. It is most noticeable in wood with variable densities. I have some big bits - 3” and larger - that require lots of power and the 1400 is really not meant for that.
My router table is 32” x 48” and still at times I would like one even wider to support the boards. I have played with the Festool tables but for me I found them too small and not very accurate. I prefer a phenolic surface and really dislike aluminum like Festool uses.

 

[Roseland]

The OF1400 is a fantastic router - as a handheld.  But it does not lend itself to use in a table.

I recommend the Triton routers for this; they have "through the table" height adjustment and a spindle lock as standard.  And they are half the cost of the OF1400.

I really cannot see why anyone would use any other router in a table, but perhaps I'm missing something.

Andrew

 

[ear3]

Yeah -- you could get a Triton plus a decent table for half the price of the CMS.  I have a Triton that lives in a Kreg router table, and couldn't be happier with the router, though at some point I will probably upgrade my table.

I don't have the CMS, but I've always seen it more as a mobile solution rather than something for a fixed shop (though there are woodworkers of quality on the FOG who do have the CMS in their fixed shops).

If you put the router table on casters, you can roll it out of the way as needed.  Plus you can build in additional storage to the router table, as you can see from the pictures.

The OF1400 is a fantastic router - as a handheld.  But it does not lend itself to use in a table.

I recommend the Triton routers for this; they have "through the table" height adjustment and a spindle lock as standard.  And they are half the cost of the OF1400.

I really cannot see why anyone would use any other router in a table, but perhaps I'm missing something.

Andrew

 

[Michael Kellough]

It’s nice to have permanent workstations for the various woodworking operations but if you don’t have much space the router table is one operation where you don’t need a permanent fixture. The router table can be clamped (cantilevered) to a workbench. When not in use it can stand on edge (with or without the router) between other tools or cabinets.

If you prefer temporary over permanent a lighter weight router would be less trouble. Bosch has a medium sized 1/2” router that has a fixed base designed to be adjusted when upside down (Allen wrench passes through the table).

 

[kilo]

Thanks for all the feedback.  It sounds like I need to get a 2nd router that I pretty much leave in the router table.  I was hoping to keep everything compact enough to pack up in my Ram 1500 when I visit family to do projects.  It is very helpful getting these comments.

 

[Sanderxpander]

A dedicated table is very nice. But if you need a quick fix on location, clamping the OF 1400 upside down to a table using the parallel guide rods and fence works really well as long as you're doing edge work or grooves close to the edge of your work. A bit like this guy does but you could use the parallel guide at the same time;

 

[Birdhunter]

I'm in complete agreement with PeterK.

I've built several router tables and ended up with a PC motor mounted in a lift with a big solid fence with a micro adjust.

I fell in love with the CMS unit, especially with the sliding table. I didn't buy it because of its small work surface and a (my opinion)  wonky fence. This forum is full of "better" CMS fences all trying to remedy the standard fence short comings.

I also thought the 1400 needed to stay on top of the table to optimize my use of its features.

If I had to be mobile, the CMS is a good option. Otherwise, not a good option for me.

 

[peter halle]

I have a CMS and agree that portability is a strong point for it.  Other strengths in my opinion is the ease of mounting / swapping out the router, and the sliding table.

That being said, here is thread that you might want to check out if you are considering building a table to hold a 1400.  I've always loved the mounting system shown in Guido's video.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/more-from-guido/msg187363/#msg187363

Peter

 

[Sparktrician]

Like Peter, I have a CMS with two add-on tables and love it, regardless of which router is in use at any given time.  As Peter noted, the fence is not optimal, but certain modifications as made by DynaGlide and others here on the FOG have made the adjustability even better. 

 

[sancho57]

I have 2 CMS's, One that attaches to the MFT and a free standing GE. One I use for my router table the other for my TS 75 insert. I also make my own modules using bench top tools and switch them out as needed.

If I were in the OPs position I would get either one that attaches to the MTF or a non Festool router table. I use my 2200 in my CMS. Had it there for many years and never had a issue with it being mounted in the CMS on 2 continents Europe (used with a tranny) and here in the USA. Its a NA 2200.

Another option for the OP would be to get the PC router and make his own Router table that attaches to his MFT.  I just used whats left over of a old MFT top and attached it to my MFT to extend it.
If the OP wants he can buy that extension table for the new work station and add a router insert plate drilled to set a PC router in it and use a incra fence.

Theyre are so many different possibilities . Its all left to the imagination, bank account and what works for you (personal preference).

 

[reidbailey]

Another option for the OP would be to get the PC router and make his own Router table that attaches to his MFT.  I just used whats left over of a old MFT top and attached it to my MFT to extend it.
If the OP wants he can buy that extension table for the new work station and add a router insert plate drilled to set a PC router in it and use a incra fence.

I’m actually in the process of doing just this. I have the MFT extension and Infinity Tools template waiting for the Incra lift and fence to be delivered. Current estimate I believe is 5 to 7 weeks.

I’ll make sure to update when I get everything and complete the project if anyone is interested.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jeh]

A dedicated table is very nice. But if you need a quick fix on location, clamping the OF 1400 upside down to a table using the parallel guide rods and fence works really well as long as you're doing edge work or grooves close to the edge of your work. A bit like this guy does but you could use the parallel guide at the same time;

No comment on the relative dangerous of this type of mounting.

 

[Chinski]

Dados and drawer grooves are a piece of cake with the 1400 and rail guide plus LA-OF plate (492574) which is the same thickness as the guide rail thereby avoiding use of that dodgy little plastic foot thingy. Best solution for large pieces by far.

But yea, things like shaping thin moulding strips and door insert grooves ... hmm, I'd love a way to avoid the router table but haven't yet thought of one. 

Been thinking about the OF-FH routing aid (495246) that looks as if it would do the job for the door inserts (if not the mouldings) - but it looks like a lot of cash ... Anyone used one?

For now, I have a Dewalt D26204K 1/4" router mounted to a portable table as it has easy height adjustment from below and I can whip the whole setup out and back very quickly.  I used to have a Dewalt 2HP beast up in there but it was waaay overkill and felt like the table could take off at any moment.

Thanks.

Edit: oh yea, and don't forget the Angle arm WA-OF (486052) + edging plate (486058) as an expensive but excellent solution for using your 1400 without a router table to do accurate and controlled edge-band trimming...

 

[RC]

I have 2 CMS's, One that attaches to the MFT and a free standing GE. One I use for my router table the other for my TS 75 insert. I also make my own modules using bench top tools and switch them out as needed.

If I were in the OPs position I would get either one that attaches to the MTF or a non Festool router table. I use my 2200 in my CMS.

I second Jobsworth on the setup. I also have a freestanding CMS-GE-OF1400 set and a CMS-MFT + CMS-TS55 + Incra LS Superfence for my MFT/3 and frankly I never bother to pull the free standing CMS and I hate the Festool router fence in comparison to my Incra setup. It's big, bulky and clunky to adjust and the extension tables for the CMS-GE cost a fortune.

That said, converting the OF1400 to table mode, while fairly quick I still find myself doing allsorts of dangerous handheld setups to avoid having to convert it to table mode. (I actually ended buying a TSC55 to not have to detach my TS55 from the CMS insert ever again for the same reason). So be prepared to buying a second router for hand held operations ;-)

If I was to start fresh I would probably get an Makita cordless hand held router, an OF1010 for my LR32 setup and a proper high power table motor to permanently live in a dedicated table with a lift and an Incra fence.

I wish Festool made a Bosch Colt-type hand held palm router with interchangeable bases and not just a 1010 + specilized MFK's.

The 1400 is nice and all, but also large, heavy and as an 'allrounder' master of none and the OF2200 while powerful, great ergonomics is still overkill for most uses, expensive as hell and heavy.

 

[jeh]

Dados and drawer grooves are a piece of cake with the 1400 and rail guide plus LA-OF plate (492574) which is the same thickness as the guide rail thereby avoiding use of that dodgy little plastic foot thingy. Best solution for large pieces by far.

But yea, things like shaping thin moulding strips and door insert grooves ... hmm, I'd love a way to avoid the router table but haven't yet thought of one. 

Been thinking about the OF-FH routing aid (495246) that looks as if it would do the job for the door inserts (if not the mouldings) - but it looks like a lot of cash ... Anyone used one?

For now, I have a Dewalt D26204K 1/4" router mounted to a portable table as it has easy height adjustment from below and I can whip the whole setup out and back very quickly.  I used to have a Dewalt 2HP beast up in there but it was waaay overkill and felt like the table could take off at any moment.

Thanks.

Edit: oh yea, and don't forget the Angle arm WA-OF (486052) + edging plate (486058) as an expensive but excellent solution for using your 1400 without a router table to do accurate and controlled edge-band trimming...

There are far better and more versatile solutions to lock mortising (OF-FH) available on the market. I use a kit from Templaco (https://www.templaco.com/). You'll need the BoreMaster Kit that is pricey, but the plus for them is they have templates for just about any type of lock and catch. I had some rebuilt that Templaco did not have a set of templates for and they made custom ones.

 

[jarbroen]

Feels like I'm late to the party, but I'll still add my two cents worth.

For years I never had a single router... then I got the OF1400 and found an excuse to get 2 more routers.
One is a PC in a Hybrid Pantorouter and the other is the Makita 0701 palm router.

I just picked up the CMS-VL end of last summer and added the Incra Superfence over the holidays.  The Festool fence is just 'okay'.  It actually worked pretty well in jointing applications and fairly simple to setup with other bits.  Where it sucks is repeat operations.  If I had to switch between two different bits or functions I would have to go through a timely setup each time.
With the Incra fence I can have multiple operations set and switch between without setup time.
The VL is really handy attached to the MFT - plenty of workspace.  I got the CMS set which comes with the sliding table.  I haven't used it much yet but it's really helpful when you have wider panels.

If you want the mobility and/or the option of putting it away to clear floor space - my vote is strongly in the CMS camp.  I can fold it up and stick it in a corner if need garage space back.  Or, when I was working on hardwood floors, I moved it up to my dining room and was using it there.  Same thing if I want to take it to my parents house to help on projects.

If you need a shop bound only router table and don't mind the permanent space loss then you might consider a different table.  Not guaranteed to cost less but you might appreciate different lift features or fence options.

Switching back and forth between CMS mounted and top of work with the OF1400 is definitely an extra step.  However, once you do it a couple times it takes like 30 seconds.  It's less time to do that for me than switching bits.
I was recently building some shelf towers and had to switch back and forth.  After the initial grumbling I realized that it wasn't that big of a deal.
And it helps to have my little Makita palm router for doing some simple edge work.  Saves bit changes too.