Why don't other brands include a centerline on their routers?

bwehman

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I bought my first Festool router about 6 years ago and the feature that made the sale was the centerline marked on the base. It was just one of many indicators that demonstrated to me 'oh, this company cares about precision. I want that in my tools.' And since then, I've added all the routers Festool makes. I know a lot of buyers aren't me, and don't care about the same things, but it seems like such low-hanging fruit for other tool brands to just add a centerline on router bases. It's SO useful to those who need it.

Any speculation why they've left it off?
 
I've thought about marking my dewalt, but then realized it was pointless since the plastic base is so thick.  Festool routers on the other hand have pretty thin bases so the machining mark sits far closer, but its still 7mm above the line in actual use.  I guess it comes down to that philosophy of teeth to pencil which isn't a large hurdle to get over if you're used to doing it that way.
 
I was watching Festool Live, Episode 105 yesterday and Sedge mentioned (for the 10th time [smile]) the base center markings on all the Festool routers and I pondered the same thing. How could something as simple as that be missed by every other router manufacturer? Even Mafell missed the boat on this convenient feature.  [tongue]

I purchased Festool routers for the dust collection but I use the base markings all of the time.  I really wouldn't want to go back to an unmarked router base.
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The plastic sub-base doesn't continue them very well, but I'm 99% sure my Makita compact routers have the center-lines marked?
 
After 35 years on the tools doing this for a living, I didn’t even know what a base centreline was. I didn’t even know such a thing existed. Does my OF2200 have one? I never even noticed.
 
Some folks may find the center line essential for their applications, but as an owner of 5 routers (none Festool), I've never had a need for it in any of the projects I've undertaken. I know a couple of books showing how to make cross-haired router base plates.
 
I guess it all gets down to what you're used to...we are all products of our environment.

I've owned Milwaukee routers for over 30 years and it was only a short 15 years ago that Milwaukee finally offered a plunge option for their routers. Up until that time you set the bit to the height you needed and went forth...I know it sounds rather crude but that was the norm if you owned a Milwaukee router. You needed to create a work-around to use those routers and by gosh, you did find a way, however that isn't much different than not offering centering marks on a router...it all depends upon what you're used to...work-arounds prevail in all tools.

So, work-arounds can be ginned up for finding the center on routers but having those center lines highlighted on the router base sure makes the router use experience much more pleasant.

 
Cheese said:
Snip.

So, work-arounds can be ginned up for finding the center on routers but having those center lines highlighted on the router base sure makes the router use experience much more pleasant.

I've never tried or used any means to find the center line for my routers. I either rout without the need for centering (just go with the same reference side on all pieces), or rout the work twice (flipped on the second time, e.g. for deadly accurate center grooving -- the same way we do it on a table saw -- which I don't think can be matched by any center line/pencil line alignment in terms of precision).

There might be some uses of the center line on the Festool routers...can you give some examples?
 
I have used the centerline marking with a guiderail to make specific length grooves, by marking the start and stop points on the track itself. Handy, but certainly not required.
It is especially repeatable if you do it with one of the stops from the LR32 system to locate the rail and the rail stops to define the groove itself.
You find the start point with the bit on a pencil mark. Then mark the router centerline on the rail, measure up to the stop point and mark it on the rail too.
This technique worked well for me with some decorative flutes that were different lengths. You just have to stay aware of your marks.
 
That may partially explain why many other brands don't have the center lines: they don't offer tracks or accessories for use with the center lines?

I know some people use this kind of edge guide to "center" rout (flip fence down to position the jig, flip fence up to rout):

[attachimg=1]

 

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You may be right ChuckS. The centerlines on the edges perpendicular to the line of travel, would be useless for measuring length, without the router being constrained by the rail. Just as the ones running parallel to the line of the cut would for staying on line if the router body rotated at all.

Just like in the pic you provided, the base would follow the jig, but the center marking could rotate anywhere.
 
This one got me thinking, as I started using the OF900 around the early 1980's, and while it is nice Festool go so far as to engineer center lines into the routers, and mine also has it, I actually can't ever recall a time where I used it. But it is nice to know it's there if I have a need.
 
A bit off topic but I have always been puzzled by the lack of both axis centre lines on router tables or drop in plates.
 
...and the least Festool should do is to add light to the DF500!!!! [tongue] (I know it wouldn't be as easy as adding light to a router, but it's doable given the LED technology we now have.)
 
ChuckS said:
...and the least Festool should do is to add light to the DF500!!!! [tongue] (I know it wouldn't be as easy as adding light to a router, but it's doable given the LED technology we now have.)

Or the HKC 55! But full disclosure here: I tried to buy an OF 1400 Saturday, missing LED be damned. The store had three but they were all spoken for.  :'(

More to the topic, I do use my 1010's centerlines. Not always, but I always appreciate that they're there.
 
I’ve applied masking tape and a ruled line to indicate the end of the cut (outside diameter of the bit). 

I have never seen the need for a centerline.  How would you use it?
 
Packard said:
I’ve applied masking tape and a ruled line to indicate the end of the cut (outside diameter of the bit). 

I have never seen the need for a centerline.  How would you use it?

Dadoes (stopped or through) using the rail seems to be the main use case.  Very easy to use the micro-adjust to align your bit to the centerline of the dado and then run it along the rail.
 
I happened to check my Makita RT0701 today having seen this thread and noticed that it does have the center marked on all four sides same as the OF1400. None of my other routers (PC, Milwaukee, DeWalt) have the centers marked.
 

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