Wipe-on poly help needed

[rjfarel]

Need to finish something quickly using wipe-on poly and am having trouble getting a silky-smooth feel.

On few smaller surfaces, I've been trying to rub with steel wool, and while this makes an adequate feel to the touch, I'm not certain it looks as good as it should (the poly has a satin finish).

Should I be able to get a good surface with the final poly application, or do I still need to buff it with some type of material?

I have an RO125.  What type of pad or abrasive would be of use for what I'm trying to accomplish?

- Bob Farrell

 

[ROb McGilp]

Hi Bob,

How many coats are you using and how are you applying the poly?
Briefly, I sand to whatever you want, but the higher the better I feel, then pour the poly onto the surface at one end and use a clean cotton rag to apply slowly from one end to the other. For sanding between coats I use 1500g with an RO150, then reapply and let sit for a day,sand again, possibly with a Platin 2 2000 pad then apply final coat. If you are stingy with the poly, you wont get a real smooth finish.

Hope this helps.

Albert

 

[Programmergeek]

The trouble with the wipe on stuff is it is thin, it may just be soaking intot he wood it is hard to get that really think poly feel with it.  I use it refinishing all the time but new stuff it is good as a selent and not good id you want more than that.  you may be getting dull spots also where the wood in spots soaked up more in some areas. 

 

[rjfarel]

Definitely don't want the "thick" poly feel.  I don't like the look of plastic-encased wood.  I want something that looks natural and has decent resistance to water.

 

[ROb McGilp]

Hi Bob,
You shouldn't get a plastic feel if you do it right. I definitely cannot stand plastic timber either.
Couple of things that may help.
Wipe down with turps before you start (helps get rid of grease and hence irregular appearance. Using a sander sealer may help also.)
I have found that WOP is best used within a couple months of opening. After that, it goes a little weird.
Use only the WOP satin, the gloss will make you think the whole project is plastic. The first two pics below are of a 6'x6' Blackwood table done as per previously stated, using satin WOP the third is how it looks 2 years on.

Regards,

Albert

 

[bgray43050]

Here's my recipe for wipe-on polys, minwax antique oil, and a homemade concoction that is very similar.

Make sure that your surface is well prepped, handplaned or sanded to at least 220, perhaps a higher grit.
1. Wetsand the wipe-on poly into the wood with 320 grit silicon carbide sandpaper.  Don't be afraid to flood the surface.  Wipe the slurry off ACROSS the grain.
2. Wait a day, Repeat with 400
3. Wait a day, Repeat with 600.
You can go higher, but I think that its' overkill.
From here, if you don't have the shine that you like, go with wax and buff.

What happens with this finish, is the wetsanding creates a slurry, and that slurry fills every pore, making a super-smooth finish that does not feel or look like "plastic".  It feels like wood.  Try this with a small scrap, and I think that you'll be impressed.

 

[Programmergeek]

that is intresting Brian I will have to try that. 

 

[ROb McGilp]

I like that process too, Brian, especially for open grained or very dry timber.

Albert

 

[tvgordon]

I've been able to get a very smooth feeling finish using the gel topcoats.  I really like using the one made by General Finishes.  The drawbacks are that it seems like I'm wasting the finish when I wipe off the excess after applying the gel and that only a thin coat remains on the wood.  I like it because I don't get runs in the finish like I always seem to overlook when I use other types of finish.
Tom.

 

[Bob Marino]

Here's my recipe for wipe-on polys, minwax antique oil, and a homemade concoction that is very similar.

Make sure that your surface is well prepped, handplaned or sanded to at least 220, perhaps a higher grit.
1. Wetsand the wipe-on poly into the wood with 320 grit silicon carbide sandpaper.  Don't be afraid to flood the surface.  Wipe the slurry off ACROSS the grain.
2. Wait a day, Repeat with 400
3. Wait a day, Repeat with 600.
You can go higher, but I think that its' overkill.
From here, if you don't have the shine that you like, go with wax and buff.

What happens with this finish, is the wetsanding creates a slurry, and that slurry fills every pore, making a super-smooth finish that does not feel or look like "plastic".  It feels like wood.  Try this with a small scrap, and I think that you'll be impressed.

Brian,

Why do you specify silicone carbide paper?

Bob

 

[bgray43050]

//Why do you specify silicone carbide paper?//

Silicon carbide is wet-dry sandpaper and is made for wet-sanding.

Aluminum Oxide paper would not hold up very well for this wet application.

 

[Bob Marino]

//Why do you specify silicone carbide paper?//

Silicon carbide is wet-dry sandpaper and is made for wet-sanding.

Aluminum Oxide paper would not hold up very well for this wet application.

Aha!

Bob

 

[dltflt]

Brian that sounds like a great finish.  Have you ever tried it on Oak?  I'm building a desk out of Oak and this may help make the top smooth.  I think I will give try. 

Thanks,
Don

 

[downtheroad]

One thing you may want to try on a piece after the final coat if it feels a little "nibby" is to rub it down with paper from a large brown shopping bag. Its not abrasive enough to really scratch, but perfect to knock off minor nibs and/or overspray. Just refinished a 1950's Danish teak dining table with 8 chairs. After the last coat of wipe on poly cured for a few days, we did this old-time finisher's trick today and it really made the finish feel good to the hand.

 

[robtonya]

One thing you may want to try on a piece after the final coat if it feels a little "nibby" is to rub it down with paper from a large brown shopping bag. Its not abrasive enough to really scratch, but perfect to knock off minor nibs and/or overspray. Just refinished a 1950's Danish teak dining table with 8 chairs. After the last coat of wipe on poly cured for a few days, we did this old-time finisher's trick today and it really made the finish feel good to the hand.

I used a pair of kahki dockers pants for a rub down too. It seemed to help that "nibby" feeling.

 

[JayStPeter]

Nobody mentioned brands of poly?  I think that makes the biggest difference in the quality of the finish and how much effort it takes to get there.  The General finishes stuff is quick and easy, while you have to work like a dog to get decent results with Minwax.  My experience is that Minwax is like the Black & Decker of finishing supplies.  You can do stuff with it, but Festool is better, faster, easier.  There are a number of brands of finish that are better, faster easier.
Another issue not mentioned is where you apply it.  Dust will settle on the finish while it dries.  Try to apply it somewhere that dust isn't being stirred up while it dries or take the steps necessary to minimize it.  I clean my shop for a couple days before I move on to finishing.  Finishing is the only time I run my overhead dust filter system anymore.
My personal feeling on wipe on poly is that it should be applied as thick as possible.  As long as it flattens out before it dries, you're good to go.  Fewer coats since it builds faster.  It's also easier to flatten each coat, especially the first, when there is more to it.  With the General stuff, I use 400 grit after the first coat and 00000 steel wool each coat after.  I thin the final coat a little to avoid having to do much more than the brown paper bag trick (after it dries for days/weeks).  Otherwise, you have to rub the finish out.  If necessary, I usually use steel wool then on to polish.  I use car polish (rubbing compound then swirl remover) to get a good shine on the surface, even with satin.  I haven't had to go through that extra effort in a long time though.