Wood Filler / Repaint

[SoonerFan]

I am repainting the side of a cabinet for some friends. Before I paint I need to fill in a couple holes. Holes are from counter sinking screws which I believe were added to add structure/support to the cabinet.

What would you suggest I use to fill the holes? I have used many types of fillers and epoxy in the past. I am curious which types and brands of fillers others might use. It’s fine with me if I need to apply the filler and sand a couple of times if the filler shrinks when drying. I would like something that is easy to sand flat. After the holes are filled/sanded I will lightly sand the entire side and apply a couple coats of paint in hopes of getting a decent match for them in addition to covering the screws which have been added.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Packard]

Indoors or outdoors?

For exterior applications, I use Bondo.

For interior, I just grab any of the better known brand names.  No help from me there.

The big issue for me is that sometimes the filled holes will telegraph through the finish.  I alway use a primer like 1-2-3 or B-I-N. I spot prime the sanded filler spots, then hit the entire surface with primer and the the paint.

Others might offer more detailed suggestions.

 

[cpw]

I've had good results with Bondo glazing and spot putty.  I first saw it used by Idaho Painter.

 

[SoonerFan]

[member=74278]Packard[/member] Forgot that detail. Interior cabinet.

 

[tjbnwi]

Bondo then 3M glazing compound.

Tom

 

[Packard]

Bondo then 3M glazing compound.

Tom

Does the 3M stuff get hard?  Can you sand it?

 

[tjbnwi]

Bondo then 3M glazing compound.

Tom

Does the 3M stuff get hard?  Can you sand it?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Glazing-and-Spot-Putty-00907ES-4-5-oz-1-Tube/16927984

Tom

 

[bobtskutter]

This stuffhttps://www.ronseal.com/products/high-performance-wood-filler/

(from the UK).

I believe two pack epoxy car body filler is often used.

Bob

 

[Packard]

Bondo is my definition of a miracle product.  When I moved to my current house, there were 3 holes in my wood panel garage doors.  They looked like bullet holes. 

I glued small plywood squares on the inside as patches. 

I then mixed the 2-part Bondo and applied it to the holes.

Sanded when dried.

Spot primed the holes and then primed the doors entirely.

Painted.

The only way you can locate the original holes, is to look at the inside of the doors for the patches. 

Note:  There are some paintable putties.  Many of these remain pliable when cured.  They work fine for a lot of applications, but would be inappropriate for anything that served as a work surface such as a table top, counter top or well-used shelf.

 

[tjbnwi]

Bondo then 3M glazing compound.

Tom

Does the 3M stuff get hard?  Can you sand it?

I should have explained. The glazing compound fills the smallest of imperfections and allows for better edge feathering. The Bondo does the “heavy lifting”, filling the majority of the flaw.

Tom

 

[Packard]

Bondo then 3M glazing compound.

Tom

Does the 3M stuff get hard?  Can you sand it?

I should have explained. The glazing compound fills the smallest of imperfections and allows for better edge feathering. The Bondo does the “heavy lifting”, filling the majority of the flaw.

Tom

Is the 3M glazing compound that rust-red stuff in a squeeze tube?  I’ve used that stuff and it is great for pin holes, etc.

 

[cpw]

Is the 3M glazing compound that rust-red stuff in a squeeze tube?  I’ve used that stuff and it is great for pin holes, etc.

Yes, it's great stuff.  One part instead of two.  Dries quickly so you can sand and move on with priming/painting.

 

[SoonerFan]

Bondo then 3M glazing compound.

Tom

It seems like Bondo / Glazing Compound is a good combination based on the feedback so I will give that a try.  Plus I can find these products in store near me. 

Are people using the Bondo Wood Filler or just the original Bondo?  I used the original Bondo once to fill in some cut on the top of my MFT but have never used the wood filler. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

If the holes are small “countersunk screw holes” and not too numerous, I’d just use the epoxy putty that comes in tubes. ( I like Hercules brand from the plumbing department) The Tootsie Roll type stuff where the epoxy surrounds a core of hardener and you just cut a bit off and mush it together until the colors are thoroughly blended. (Wear nitrile gloves) Then push it into the depression. Leave some proud so you can sheer it flush with the surface in a few minutes.

Follow up with the red 3M glazing filler and sand.

 

[tjbnwi]

Bondo then 3M glazing compound.

Tom

Does the 3M stuff get hard?  Can you sand it?

I should have explained. The glazing compound fills the smallest of imperfections and allows for better edge feathering. The Bondo does the “heavy lifting”, filling the majority of the flaw.

Tom

Is the 3M glazing compound that rust-red stuff in a squeeze tube?  I’ve used that stuff and it is great for pin holes, etc.

Yes, it is actually the unthinned base for red oxide automotive primer. Some of the older ones here may remember the primmer. I bet I have sprayed thousands of gallons of it.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Bondo then 3M glazing compound.

Tom

It seems like Bondo / Glazing Compound is a good combination based on the feedback so I will give that a try.  Plus I can find these products in store near me. 

Are people using the Bondo Wood Filler or just the original Bondo?  I used the original Bondo once to fill in some cut on the top of my MFT but have never used the wood filler.

I use the original Bondo, the difference between the two, as far as I know, is just the color of the hardener.

Tom

 

[Packard]

I use the basic Bondo, which is often the only type offered at Home Depot or Lowes.

There are also Bondo variants that include fiberglass fibers for larger holes, and ones with metal fibers for working on metal panels.

This is the one I use:

I did some bodywork on my Alfa Romeo back in 1970 - 1971 and I am fairly certain Bondo was an independent company back then and not part of the 3M Corporation. 

Prior to that, they used to do “leading” for body repairs on cars.  That is, they would melt lead alloy (basically, “solder”) and apply it to the body panels using wood paddles. 

That approach remained for panel trucks that delivered foodstuffs as the original Bondo had ingredients that you really did not want to ingest.

I’m not a fan of 3M (Corporate), but they do make some excellent products.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The red stuff is great for tiny imperfections, like bubble holes, that can show up after sanding. Be careful about using it on anything larger than a brad nail hole. It is essentially super thick lacquer primer. It can shrink back, causing a dimple. In tiny holes, it is great, and far easier than a 2-part filler. Mixing 2-part in small quantities is bothersome and wasteful.
I'm pretty sure that Tom is right. The only difference in them is the color of the hardener, with one exception. There is a company called Evercoat, that makes a lightweight body filler called RAGE. There is a Gold version of it, which is a tan/yellowish color, with white hardener. We used it in the bodyshop, years ago.
In the cabinet shop, we use the regular gray Bondo brand. Sometimes the hardener is blue, other times, the usual red. It all basically acts the same.
Bubbles generally come from mixing. The main thing is, don't "stir", that induces them. It works much better to smear and fold it back on itself, almost like kneading dough.

The 2-part putty (tootsie roll) is good to. I keep some in the toolbox drawer. It's a little more "structural", stiffer than Bondo. It doesn't sand quite as well, for me anyway.

 

[Cheese]

Yes, it is actually the unthinned base for red oxide automotive primer. Some of the older ones here may remember the primmer. I bet I have sprayed thousands of gallons of it.

Nitrostan anyone?  [smile]

 

[tjbnwi]

I use the basic Bondo, which is often the only type offered at Home Depot or Lowes.

There are also Bondo variants that include fiberglass fibers for larger holes, and ones with metal fibers for working on metal panels.

This is the one I use:

I did some bodywork on my Alfa Romeo back in 1970 - 1971 and I am fairly certain Bondo was an independent company back then and not part of the 3M Corporation. 

Prior to that, they used to do “leading” for body repairs on cars.  That is, they would melt lead alloy (basically, “solder”) and apply it to the body panels using wood paddles. 

That approach remained for panel trucks that delivered foodstuffs as the original Bondo had ingredients that you really did not want to ingest.

I’m not a fan of 3M (Corporate), but they do make some excellent products.

Depending on the vehicle I’m working on I’ll use lead.

When my oldest daughter got her first car she wanted to repair the body and paint it. I had her form every replacement piece/patch, TIG them in place then solder the seams.

The new solders are lead free. I have a complete set of paddles, lead files, and a tin of tallow (have to tallow the paddles before “smoothing” the solder).

Back in the day I’d use various tints in the primer, this would allow me to see flaws during the wet/block sanding phase that were not evident other wise. Every panel was also “hand checked” in the dark. Now there are powder dusters for this.

As to the Nitrostan, never used it, always used the 3M line of fillers.

Tom