Wood Filler / Repaint

tjbnwi said:
Packard said:
I use the basic Bondo, which is often the only type offered at Home Depot or Lowes.

There are also Bondo variants that include fiberglass fibers for larger holes, and ones with metal fibers for working on metal panels.

This is the one I use:

brown-bondo-wood-restoration-pn20082-64_1000.jpg


I did some bodywork on my Alfa Romeo back in 1970 - 1971 and I am fairly certain Bondo was an independent company back then and not part of the 3M Corporation. 

Prior to that, they used to do “leading” for body repairs on cars.  That is, they would melt lead alloy (basically, “solder”) and apply it to the body panels using wood paddles. 

That approach remained for panel trucks that delivered foodstuffs as the original Bondo had ingredients that you really did not want to ingest.

I’m not a fan of 3M (Corporate), but they do make some excellent products.

Depending on the vehicle I’m working on I’ll use lead.

When my oldest daughter got her first car she wanted to repair the body and paint it. I had her form every replacement piece/patch, TIG them in place then solder the seams.

The new solders are lead free. I have a complete set of paddles, lead files, and a tin of tallow (have to tallow the paddles before “smoothing” the solder).

Back in the day I’d use various tints in the primer, this would allow me to see flaws during the wet/block sanding phase that were not evident other wise. Every panel was also “hand checked” in the dark. Now there are powder dusters for this.

As to the Nitrostan, never used it, always used the 3M line of fillers.

Tom

Modern cars have lighter gage body panels and some have fairly large, nearly flat surfaces.  Too much heat on those panels, and I would imagine that they would tin-pan out of plane.  That would be a difficult repair.

When auto body repairs need welded in steel patches over large areas, they space the welds and time between welds to avoid that heat buildup.

In any case, “leading” is more difficult, and requires skills that not many shops have.  I would not imagine many are using that process.

Either process, if well-executed, will provide a satisfactory result.
 
Packard said:
tjbnwi said:
Packard said:
I use the basic Bondo, which is often the only type offered at Home Depot or Lowes.

There are also Bondo variants that include fiberglass fibers for larger holes, and ones with metal fibers for working on metal panels.

This is the one I use:

brown-bondo-wood-restoration-pn20082-64_1000.jpg


I did some bodywork on my Alfa Romeo back in 1970 - 1971 and I am fairly certain Bondo was an independent company back then and not part of the 3M Corporation. 

Prior to that, they used to do “leading” for body repairs on cars.  That is, they would melt lead alloy (basically, “solder”) and apply it to the body panels using wood paddles. 

That approach remained for panel trucks that delivered foodstuffs as the original Bondo had ingredients that you really did not want to ingest.

I’m not a fan of 3M (Corporate), but they do make some excellent products.

Depending on the vehicle I’m working on I’ll use lead.

When my oldest daughter got her first car she wanted to repair the body and paint it. I had her form every replacement piece/patch, TIG them in place then solder the seams.

The new solders are lead free. I have a complete set of paddles, lead files, and a tin of tallow (have to tallow the paddles before “smoothing” the solder).

Back in the day I’d use various tints in the primer, this would allow me to see flaws during the wet/block sanding phase that were not evident other wise. Every panel was also “hand checked” in the dark. Now there are powder dusters for this.

As to the Nitrostan, never used it, always used the 3M line of fillers.

Tom

Modern cars have lighter gage body panels and some have fairly large, nearly flat surfaces.  Too much heat on those panels, and I would imagine that they would tin-pan out of plane.  That would be a difficult repair.

When auto body repairs need welded in steel patches over large areas, they space the welds and time between welds to avoid that heat buildup.

In any case, “leading” is more difficult, and requires skills that not many shops have.  I would not imagine many are using that process.

Either process, if well-executed, will provide a satisfactory result.

Gauge of metals does not matter, expanse of panel does not matter. Both of these can be dealt with  during the welding process. TIG welding introduces far less heat to the panel than gas, stick or MIG, the only process I can think of that introduces less heat is submerged arc. Properly sized, prepped and held in place goes a long way to mitigating any distortion in the panels. Cold air, cold water, ice and dry ice can pop a panel if applied properly.

Do they (we)? Again the welding process determines the application of the weld. Holding the panel in place with butt clamps, crimped and Cleco clamped, weld grips change how you go about the weld.

Lead is far superior to any other filler. It adds strength to the panel/repair, is water tight, will not crack or pop off if the panel/area is bent, will not shatter due to thermal shock (this happened to my daughter last week, very cold out, went through the car wash all of the filler on her Sequa shattered). Leading is how every automotive manufacture address any of the welded seams which must be made to look good (seam sealer is used in other areas). Leading is not hard, the area that needs to be addressed is warmed, lead “blobs” are placed, the lead is warmed, a tallowed lead paddle is used to shape the lead. Bondo is mixed, applied and shaped. (Both processes assume proper panel prep, which is the same) The difference comes in how the fillers are smoothed. With lead you use lead files to bring the lead to the final shape (never sand it). Bondo, a sander is used. Prior to current dust extraction methods a lot of Bondo dust was breathed in, even with a mask on. Both need to be glazed to address minor imperfections.

Thoughts on skills;

That’s what happens when emphasis is placed on collage instead of the trades. With the closing of school shops those who were not interested in collage were left behind (for the record I never attended collage as a student, I did teach in the automotive field right out of high school for 10 years at a community collage. I taught in all disciplines, my specialties were fuels and electrical) (Imagine the uproar if med schools and law schools were closed, ultimately they are nothing more than trade schools.) All they could hope for was someone bringing them on and allowing them on the job training.

About 7 mile from my shop is The Miill (link below) I’ve been told they are 1 of 1 in the country. I have and various members of my team have gone there looking to hire students/graduates. Every time we’re told they’ll come down to see the shop, they’ll bring a class down to see the shop, send students to apply for jobs. In the 5 years I’ve been bugging them it has not happened.

All but one member of my crew had no experience when they applied for the job.

Zach had years of experience due to his father being in the profession. He is extremely good at what he does. He has gone out on his own and is doing well.

Ashley is my finisher, she had never held a spray gun in her life, I give every new hire a few minutes on the gun so I can evaluate them. My 60 plus years of spraying told me Ashley had what it takes to be a great finisher in 30 seconds. After 3 years I’ll put her up against any finisher out there, including ones I’ve trained.

Matthew who is now in Texas at another cabinet shop has a degree in electrical engineering. No experience in woodworking, he became an excellent bench carpenter/cabinet maker.

Dale is good general help, he can operate the CNC. His attention to detail is a little lacking.

Emma could barely read a tape measure when she applied, in 2 years she became one of the shop leads and trainers. Unfortunately she has moved to PA.

Jamie, again no experience, she is getting better at what she does every day.

One person I had to “move on” was a “welder”, told him I need something TIG’ed, he said he didn’t know how to TIG. Not much of a welder. Didn’t work out in my shop at all.

There are about 8 others who just couldn’t grasp what we do.

I happy to see shop classes are slowly returning to high schools.
https://mill.wsd3.org/

None of the cars pictured below have any Bondo on them. It was what I did long before cell phones/cameras.

I do not have a picture of the Pantera’s on a rotator, I stole that pic off the internet. It gives you an idea what these cars went through during their restoration.

The Scarlett 442 was done in 83/84. The owner (he was the trimmer for the cars I built) moved to Colorado Springs in 85. When I got here in 2021 I was able to get a picture of it.

You’ll see the black Gran Prix, it was restored in 87ish, notice the ‘62 Cadillac in the garage, just finished that one up also.

Tom

 

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A little Googling and I found that I was correct.  Bondo only became a 3M product fairly recently. 

In 2007 3M purchased Bondo. I could not determine if 3M made any formulation changes after acquiring the company.
 
Packard said:
In 2007 3M purchased Bondo. I could not determine if 3M made any formulation changes after acquiring the company.

I worked for 3M for 8 years in one of their engineering groups...3M is basically a chemical engineering company that needs mechanical engineers only to monetize their products.  [tongue]  My guess is that 3M has probably tweeked the chemistry on that product several times...it's just what they do.  [smile]
 
Crazyraceguy said:
Lead is kind of a no-go with woodworking  [eek]

But it's kind of a go-to thing with the serious car restoration guys I know. It may not be my thing but the serious contenders definitely do not do Bondo.
 
Crazyraceguy said:
Lead is kind of a no-go with woodworking  [eek]

Don’t tell leadwood that [big grin]

Lead may be a no go but the lead free alloys work well. I’m sure there was a time lead was used. How to do a poured inlay using lead free solder;https://www.bernzomatic.com/Projects/Make/Metal-Inlay-in-Wood

We do 4-6 metal inlay projects;ay projects a year.

[attachimg=1]

Tom
 

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Cheese said:
Crazyraceguy said:
Lead is kind of a no-go with woodworking  [eek]

But it's kind of a go-to thing with the serious car restoration guys I know. It may not be my thing but the serious contenders definitely do not do Bondo.

As I said, depends on the project I’m working on. My guess is I’m 95% body solder, 5% Bondo.

Tom
 
A years-ago friend of mine was into “revenge”.  He had to “get even” with every perceived slight. 

One of his favorites was to spray silicone lubricant on the minor fender bender damage of a neighbor.  He did this late at night while walking his dog.

It is nearly impossible to remove all traces of silicone from a surface, and it’s main advantage (that nothing will stick to it) becomes its major headache for auto repairs.

Even when properly done, the paint, and sometimes the cured Bondo will flake off.  It is slightly less of a problem when the dent is pulled out instead of hammered out, and the bondo will penetrate the screw holes and will depend partially on a mechanical attachment.

I wonder if leading would have adhesion issues with the silicone.
 
Prep Sol 3919S or 70 (if you prefer water based), silicone issue solved. I’m a 3919S guy, environment be damn’d.

A properly prepared surface should have no adhesion issues, proper prep is part of the process. Fisheyes will tell you the prep was not done properly. Never use fish eye eliminator, once you do the equipment is contaminated and it is a pain to get the equipment clean of it.

Silicone can withstand about 400ºF of heat, lead free solder melts a little over 400ºF. Not a chance worth taking, prep the surface properly whenever doing any repairs.

Tom

 
I’ve been told that wiping the surface with Prepsol is not a guarantee of paint adhesion.

Apparently the Prepsol will create a solution, but will only carry off a small amount of the silicone that is adhered to the rag.  I am guessing if you wiped it often enough you could get it clean. 

The only really effective method was to sand the entire surface down to bare metal.  The dust will carry off the silicone. 

In any case, you are welcome test the idea on some scrap metal.  I would not test it on an actual car though.
 
Packard said:
I’ve been told that wiping the surface with Prepsol is not a guarantee of paint adhesion.

Apparently the Prepsol will create a solution, but will only carry off a small amount of the silicone that is adhered to the rag.  I am guessing if you wiped it often enough you could get it clean. 

The only really effective method was to sand the entire surface down to bare metal.  The dust will carry off the silicone. 

In any case, you are welcome test the idea on some scrap metal.  I would not test it on an actual car though.

Seeing as it is what I used to do professionally I really don’t need to test it on anything. I’ve probably restored and painted more cars that you’ve owned (over 100 that were full restorations, well over 1000 that were just repaints). The pictures of the cars I posted earlier were restored/prepped and finished by me.

My first experience with contaminated surface came when I was 9 years old, wiped down a bicycle frame, it looked clean, rattle canned it, nothing but fish eyes. Learned a lot about decontaminating from that project. As I mentioned earlier, I’ve been spraying/finishing for over 60 years, I’ve learned a lot in that time.

You clean the surface until all contaminants are removed. How do you know you got them all? Feel and experience. Don’t worry the finish will let you know if you missed something.

The last thing you want to do is sand any surface that has not been properly decontaminated, sanding just drives the contaminant into the surface, be it the paint or the metal.

Paint adhesion can be both/or mechanical/chemical. Some finishes only bond to the previous layer mechanically. Again a successful finish is all about the prep work. 

In my current shop we spray between 100-150 gallons of primer and finish a month (all water borne). Finishing wood products is 10 times more challenging than just about any automotive finishes. The 442 I posted is Candy Scarlet over gold base, that is more challenging because the color coat is translucent, you get 1 coat, 1 shot to get it laid down properly.

Tom

 
Packard said:
This is the one I use:

brown-bondo-wood-restoration-pn20082-64_1000.jpg

[member=74278]Packard[/member] I picked up a can of this today and filled in the holes. Easy to use and after a little sanding seems to have worked great. I will prime and paint tomorrow.
 
I have a can of this somewhere.  I don’t know the shelf life, but it is likely shorter with cans that were opened.

Keep an eye on that.  I’ll bet a lot of Bondo gets thrown away.  I used less than 1/4 of the can, and it was the smallest size available.

I’m glad it worded for you.
 
One more filler. Timbermate.  It comes in different colors, sort of mated to the species you're going to use it on, or white as well.  Not epoxy, water based, dries pretty well ,and is not prone to shrinkage.
Easiest to apply with a putty knife, then use a small block of hardwood as your scraper, rubbing back and forth to level it with the surface you're repairing. Blends in beautifully .
The smell is, well, an acquired taste...  [big grin] [big grin]  I believe it's clay based, so the smell is pretty 'earthy'. I have a small cabinet full of the stuff, so everytime I open the door, it's a bit strong... [embarassed] [embarassed]
 
[member=10952]leakyroof[/member] I've been using Timbermate for what seems like decades! Great filler, and lasts many, many, years, just add a bit of water if it starts getting hard.
 
Packard said:
I have a can of this somewhere. I don’t know the shelf life, but it is likely shorter with cans that were opened.

Keep an eye on that. I’ll bet a lot of Bondo gets thrown away. I used less than 1/4 of the can, and it was the smallest size available.

I’m glad it worded for you.

I finished sanding, priming and painting. Turned out absolutely terrific. Cannot see the counter sunk holes at all.

I probably used a little too much hardener because it dried fast. I only needed to use a little. Like you said I will probably throw a bunch of it away at some point in the future. So not really concerned about running out of the hardener.
 
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