wood sink

[Russty]

Here is a wooden sink i made middle of last year for my main bathroom as part of the ongoing renovation, it is fitted but rest of bathroom still needs finishing, just the tiling and decorating left to do.
The veneer on top is Tamo ash and it is made from layers of birch ply. the insides of the sinks are stained for contrast and then all sealed with polyurethane and then finished in high build polyester then acrylic top coat.
unfortunately i made this before starting my youtube channel so didnt video it but i have two ensuites i will be making sinks for so will definitely video those.

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process in brief-
veneered top-

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cutting out the layers-

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all glued together with PU glue

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layers blended with Kutzall disc

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stained

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starting finishing

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finished and polished

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[Russty]

ok, dont know why it doesnt want to put the first image i posted at the top or even in the post at all but here it is installed-

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[dltflt]

That is beautiful!  How many hours do you have into that project?

 

[Russty]

thanks Don, i couldnt say exactly, it took about two weeks but i was working on other things in between so i guess around 80 hours or so.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Good job, your sink looks very good. Also amazed by the faucets which have a very special design I've never seen before.

 

[Russty]

Yeah i love them! They look kinda like cartoon animals or something like that. I found them on ebay from china.

 

[Cheese]

Really nice job...love the contrasting colors. How many coats of high build polyester and acrylic did you lay down?

 

[Russty]

Hi, i put around 5 coats of pu isolator first to seal it as polyester reacts with stains. First coats of isolator are thinned 50/50 to really soak in. Then 3 heavy coats of polyester, sanded to 320grit. then 3 coats of acrylic,  sanded to 800 then 2 more flow coats, wet sanded to 2000 then buffed. Quite a lot of work! Underneath just has about 10 coats of pu to seal it.
Cheers.
Russ.

 

[travisj]

Beautiful work!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[six-point socket II]

Hi!

That's really something different - from sink(s) to faucets. Very cool!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Knight Woodworks]

Very cool! Thanks for sharing.

John

 

[sancho57]

That is simply beautiful.

I really like everything about it.

 

[grobkuschelig]

Great and truly beautiful work!

Please also share some pictures of the finished bathroom, when possible.

 

[Cheese]

Hi, i put around 5 coats of pu isolator first to seal it as polyester reacts with stains. First coats of isolator are thinned 50/50 to really soak in. Then 3 heavy coats of polyester, sanded to 320grit. then 3 coats of acrylic,  sanded to 800 then 2 more flow coats, wet sanded to 2000 then buffed. Quite a lot of work! Underneath just has about 10 coats of pu to seal it.

I've never done this before so I'm curious what brands of polyurethane, polyester and acrylic you used?

In the past, to seal wood I've floated a 2mm layer of clear epoxy over the surface and then sanded & buffed. I am surprised how soft the epoxy is.  [eek]

 

[Russty]

Thanks for all the nice comments! ill definitely post pics of the finished bathroom, i also plan to make some mirror frames and a light bar for above them to match the sinks so ill post those when i start and ill probably video them too and it will include the same finish process.
[member=44099]Cheese[/member]
i tried using epoxy too (west systems) but had problems with amine bloom and softness too, when polished it looked all patchy.

The PU and polyester i use are from Sayerlack which is a branch of sherwin williams. i use the pul7946 polyester as it is thixotropic and sticks well for vertical application. you lay it on really thick and it flows reasonably well but the intention is always to sand it flat and apply a top coat, they do a polishable version but i think it is more viscous so might not be good for vertical which i need.
the isolator i used to use was tr4027, this is for isolating oily woods but i just put it on everything because polyester is so finicky and reacts (no cure) when least expected so i just dont take the risk. lately im using Milesi isolator which is more expensive but seems to do a better job of isolating and grain filling.
the acrylic is just standard automotive high solids 2k clear, i do high end finishes on metal parts as well which i use automotive primers and base colours for so this is just a case of not wanting loads of different paints in stock, it does the job for both. at the moment im using max meyer. lays on like glass.
the isolator is here-https://www.movac.co.uk/wood-finishes/interior-wood/barrier-coatings/
and-https://www.mylands.com/trade-wood-finishes/lqa-836-polyester-isolator-for-oily-woods?___SID=S
and polyesters here-https://www.movac.co.uk/wood-finishes/interior-wood/polyester-coatings/
cheers,
Russ.

 

[Cheese]

Thanks for your detailed reply, being a retired engineer, small details do matter.  [big grin]

I find it interesting that you also found the West epoxy to be soft. Even after 1 year of curing it's continued softness still annoys me. I can live with it but there must be better alternatives out there. That's the reason I was interested in your solution.