Gwerner said:Has anyone who ordered direct from Woodpeckers received the new connectors? I find it odd that people who ordered through other vendors have received the new connectors and I'm still waiting for mine.
Peter_C said:One of the other things I did was to make a couple of stops out of some scrap aluminum left over after making a new front door sill. I haven't had a chance to fully test them over multiple setup and take downs, but my assumption is I can dial the stops in and instead of having to calibrate every time (Or marking the tracks) I can just butt them up and run em' with some consistency. If it works I need to make another set for my metric rails.
Gwerner said:Has anyone who ordered direct from Woodpeckers received the new connectors? I find it odd that people who ordered through other vendors have received the new connectors and I'm still waiting for mine.
I have not received mine and I ordered direct, but I'm not complaining.justaguy said:Gwerner said:Has anyone who ordered direct from Woodpeckers received the new connectors? I find it odd that people who ordered through other vendors have received the new connectors and I'm still waiting for mine.
I have received my new connectors and I ordered direct.
I looked at Seneca's system and it appears to be the same connection to the rail as Woodpeckers uses, except with allen head screws. Seneca does use a knob for their rail attachment to the part that attaches to the Festool rail. Not really a benefit if you have to get an allen key out to move the parallel guides to a shorter/longer rail or remove them altogether. In fact I would think Woodpeckers is more solid in that it has two mounting points not one thumb screw. These things are going to take a beating, as you will see when you go to use it.snachlas said:I would have liked to have seen a knob on top of the connector to attach to the Festool guide rail, similar to the way that Seneca does theirs. As it is, you have to tighten 4 screws (and in the right order, I might add) and this process requires both a Phillips head and a hex tool.
So far I have not noticed any movement. Hopefully it stays that way with time, but I have not had a chance to properly test the new connectors.snachlas said:I have noticed that sometimes, even after tightening down the connector, the entire connector can "slip" up or down several degrees, so that the Woodpeckers rail is no longer flat or in the same plane as the Festool track.
I am sure you will find all kinds of fun projects with a CNC [big grin]fritter63 said:Peter, my cnc machine should be up and running in the next week, maybe I can cut some more of these stops for you as practice? Just need a block of aluminum.
I got mine last week or the week before from WoodpeckersGwerner said:Has anyone who ordered direct from Woodpeckers received the new connectors? I find it odd that people who ordered through other vendors have received the new connectors and I'm still waiting for mine.
Peter_C said:I went a different direction. Most important the issue has been resolved with the track connection. FWIW I like the silver parts against the red
My goal was to have the PGS pieces left together as much as possible. Function before form is my moto as that is what gets the work done. I found that by taking the top and cutting it apart, allowed the right side to become the left and the left side got flipped and moved to the right. The two lower foam pieces were also reversed. The glue holding them together was non existent. One hole got filled with foam and I cut out the track area for the stops I made, and drilled holes (Drill press at the highest speed setting) for the track joiners. I wanted to leave the end caps on the rods, so the two upper foam ends got cut off also.
Since the set also requires a #3 Phillips I took one of the included 1/4" drivers that come with Simpson structural screws, cut the top off, then welded a small piece of metal to the driver bit. A #3 bit pressure fits into the homemade tool with some masking tape to keep it there (It is actually a 1/4" driver not a bit holder, but it is FREE!). Another hole drilled on the right side of the Systainer stores the #3 Phillips.
One of the other things I did was to make a couple of stops out of some scrap aluminum left over after making a new front door sill. I haven't had a chance to fully test them over multiple setup and take downs, but my assumption is I can dial the stops in and instead of having to calibrate every time (Or marking the tracks) I can just butt them up and run em' with some consistency. If it works I need to make another set for my metric rails.