Work smarter not harder

[rvieceli]

Made these up a little while ago and really wish I had done it sooner. They have helped. Immensely with my work flow.

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Made up some story sticks with lengths that I normally use.  The 12 inch is for a smaller table lamp (both vertical and horizontal), 15 inch is the length of floor lamp feet, 19 inch is the length of a regular size table lamp. 51 inch is a floor lamp body.

Using these means I don’t have to worry about which tape I’m using. Having the visual piece means I can slide it around on the wood to determine where the best grain and figure is to be included.

Ron

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I do the same with thickness too. 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 3/4plywood, etc. They are very handy.

 

[rmwarren]

Yep, gage blocks and story sticks. Also leaning towards using cubits and rods...

Seriously, machinists don't measure as often as reference off a known thing. Peter Millard recently released a video building several cabinets without using a tape measure or any other measuring tools. It makes a ton of sense, particularly if, like Ron, you use common dimensions frequently.

RMW

 

[Packard]

I went to the hobby shop and bought 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4” and 3/8” square brass tubing.  They are not referenced to any measurement standards, but more accurate than anything I require.

I made also some larger sizes up to 1-1/2” from oak.

I find these useful for setting cuts on the table saw, though originally created as an aid in making French mats for picture framing.

I also use beaded screen molding for smaller story stick.  If you put two pieces together so that the beads interlock, a spring manuscript clip is sufficient to hold the pieces together.  And because they interlock, the adjustable story stick will remain straight.

 

[rvieceli]

Yup, if I need to drill a couple of holes in the center of a 2 inch piece of flat bar with the first hole 1.25 inches from the end and the next one 3 inches from the first. I'll chuck a precision .5 inch dowel, place a .75 gage block between the dowel and the fence for the one inch center. Then drop 2 1.2.3 blocks against the fence, one on the 1 inch side and another on the 3 inch side. Slide the stop over to them and tighten.

Replace the dowel with the appropriate drill bit. pull the one inch for a center 1.25 from the end slide the piece over to the remaining block and drill. then remove the 3 inch block and repeat.

Ron

 

[jbarr]

Did something similar with my dado stack. Spent some valuable time cutting dados for common widths including variations with shims. Whenever I want an exact dado I just refer to the stick and get the right combination of shims and blades. Its taken away most of the trial and error normally needed with a dado stack

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