Workshop heating

[bobtskutter]

How do you heat your workshop?

I've just connected a diesel heater to heat my garage.  The controller works like a proper thermostat, once it's reached the set point the heater switches off, then on again when it cools down a bit.  There's no insulation in the garage but once I fit some I think the heater will do quite well.

If you have a wood burning stove what type of stove is it and how is the flue arranged?  Are you using a workshop stove with a long un-insulated flue to warm the space?

Are you using something different, propane, electric waste oil.  Or do you just tough it out and put up with the cold.

I'd love to hear how other people have got their workshops heated.

regards
Bob

 

[rmwarren]

I use a 2' by 4' 240V/750W radiant heat panel suspended overhead (Global Industrial), controlled by a cheap 24V garage T-stat and 24V/240V contactor.

The garage T-stat can be set to just above freezing, unlike household versions. I keep it at that temp to prevent moisture condensing on tools, then crank it up to ~mid-50's when I am working.

If you haven't used radiant heat, it's perfect for a shop. Mine is small (10' by 12', insulated) the panel brings everything inside up to the set temperature quickly and it's really comfortable. Based on my pre-heat power bills it costs a couple hundred bucks a year to maintain, but keeping rust off everything alone is worth the cost.

RMW

 

[daveg]

I use a Space-Ray CB30 30k BTU radiant heater overhead on the north side wall/ceiling corner. My shop is 32'x24' and I'm in the midwest US. I like that it operates by heating objects, not just the air. My workbench is located in direct line with the heat output which is very nice for our cold winters. Forgot to mention it's the NG version.

Bob, what region are you located?

 

[bobtskutter]

I'm in the UK, North East area.  We get a lot of wind and rain blowing in off the North Sea coast.

Those radiant heat panels look interesting.

Regards
Bob

 

[ChuckM]

- Garage heater (240V, 250 CFM, 4,800 W/16,380 BTU)
- Radiant heaters (one at the bench and one at the drill press/sanding station) -https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...MIpN3by9iD_AIVDy6tBh3B3Q9iEAQYASABEgL7nPD_BwE

[attachimg=3]

I try to avoid working on very cold days like this week (high -25C today; 2C in the shop/2-car garage). I usually let the garage heater run for at least 15 minutes or longer in order to bring the shop to 10C or higher before entering the shop, and turn on the radiant heater where I work.

[attachimg=1]    [attachimg=2]

 

[Brian Livingstone]

Hi,

I live in Nova Scotia, Canada.  I just built a 28 by 30 standalone workshop, nine foot ceilings, two garage doors, three skylights.  After deciding against a heat pump and looking at my sub panel, I opted for a Danish made wood stove.  Happy with it so far.  Installed it myself.  Obviously wood heat is a bit of work, but I am enjoying it.  Nice way to get rid of scrap.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip. Nice way to get rid of scrap.

and save a few bucks, too!

 

[Muttley000]

I have a detached 24 by 36 with 9’ ceilings. It is well insulated, and I put a forced air furnace up in the attic, I’m on natural gas.  I use 2 stages of air filters to keep it clean.  Very comfortable in winter, but I’d like to add a mini split to keep the heat and humidity at bay in summertime. 

 

[JINRO]

I just use kerosene heater. I've tried cheap 110V electric one but can't seem to raise temperature of my garage more than 5 degrees

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I'm in the process of insulating and building out my garage shop right now and this has been a top concern for me.
At this point, I have a small 220v electric heater, ceiling mounted. It has been there for years, so I am using it for now, but upgrades are coming.
My intent is to use a "through wall" heatpump that is capable of heating too. This is mainly for air conditioning. I am not entirely sure that it will be able to keep up with the really cold times. I have been looking for something as a booster to either run along with it, or use during the worst days and use the heatpump in the spring/fall, when the temp is more moderate.
I have a 220 line to use for heat, but that will likely go to the heatpump, so maybe a propane unit of some sort?

 

[rvieceli]

I have a 20x20 shop with a 16 foot garage door so kind of leaky. I insulated the walls to about R20 and blew enough cellulose in the ceiling for about R60.

Currently I use a small ceiling mounted 240V 5000 watt heater turned just high to keep the shop around 40-45 to keep glues and the like from freezing. I have a small radiant “sunflower “ style unit that fits by on a small propane tank. I think on high it’s about 15k BTUS. That only takes a few minutes to get the shop up to around 60-65. I’m in the Midwest USA.
Don’t scrimp on the ceiling insulation, I think you’ll get a good bang for the buck.

Ron

 

[Bugsysiegals]

My shop is in my basement so 55-65F Winter vs Summer.  That said, I just installed a 50k Mr. Heater Big Maxx in the garage on natural gas a few weeks ago and am adding R19 insulation to the ceiling this week.  I have the $20 Mr. Heater thermostat and leave it at about 30-35F and then bring it up to ~50F as needed.  I'm not sure how this compares to infrared but it sure beats working in the cold!

 

[Cheese]

I have a 20x20 shop with a 16 foot garage door so kind of leaky. I insulated the walls to about R20 and blew enough cellulose in the ceiling for about R60.

Don’t scrimp on the ceiling insulation, I think you’ll get a good bang for the buck.

Ron's got this one nailed...combine some abundance of ceiling insulation along with a ceiling fan or two in winter mode on LOW. The insulation prevents the vertical leakage of heat, and the ceiling fan/fans on low, return the heat to the working area without pulling the heat out.

 

[bobtskutter]

Insulation is defiantly important.  I remember my Grandparents house in Wales would have melted snow about 6" from the brickwork due to heat loss.  I'm thinking about using some foil type breathable insulation to line the garage and then add a heat recovery system.
Something like this:https://ybsinsulation.com/brands/breatherquilt/https://www.justfans.co.uk/100-single-room-mvhr-p-3105.html
Regards
Bob

 

[rmwarren]

I'm in the process of insulating and building out my garage shop right now and this has been a top concern for me.
At this point, I have a small 220v electric heater, ceiling mounted. It has been there for years, so I am using it for now, but upgrades are coming.
My intent is to use a "through wall" heatpump that is capable of heating too. This is mainly for air conditioning. I am not entirely sure that it will be able to keep up with the really cold times. I have been looking for something as a booster to either run along with it, or use during the worst days and use the heatpump in the spring/fall, when the temp is more moderate.
I have a 220 line to use for heat, but that will likely go to the heatpump, so maybe a propane unit of some sort?

Seriously, consider radiant panels for the heat side. It's an added expense but the Enerjoy type panels will blow away (a pun?) forced air heat in a shop. Skipping the heating coil would save a few bucks, then use the same 220V circuit to run them.

Radiant heats the floor (and everything else), so it's not sucking warmth out of you, and re-radiates to warm the air. Very comfortable even at low temp settings.

RMW

 

[Michael Kellough]

I'm in the process of insulating and building out my garage shop right now and this has been a top concern for me.
At this point, I have a small 220v electric heater, ceiling mounted. It has been there for years, so I am using it for now, but upgrades are coming.
My intent is to use a "through wall" heatpump that is capable of heating too. This is mainly for air conditioning. I am not entirely sure that it will be able to keep up with the really cold times. I have been looking for something as a booster to either run along with it, or use during the worst days and use the heatpump in the spring/fall, when the temp is more moderate.
I have a 220 line to use for heat, but that will likely go to the heatpump, so maybe a propane unit of some sort?

Seriously, consider radiant panels for the heat side. It's an added expense but the Enerjoy type panels will blow away (a pun?) forced air heat in a shop. Skipping the heating coil would save a few bucks, then use the same 220V circuit to run them.

Radiant heats the floor (and everything else), so it's not sucking warmth out of you, and re-radiates to warm the air. Very comfortable even at low temp settings.

RMW

The radiant heat panels are installed under the floor or are you talking a two different things?

Never mind, now I get it, the infrared rays from a ceiling mounted panel heat up the floor.

 

[rmwarren]

Radiant heats the floor (and everything else), so it's not sucking warmth out of you, and re-radiates to warm the air. Very comfortable even at low temp settings.

RMW

The radiant heat panels are installed under the floor or are you talking a two different things?

Never mind, now I get it, the infrared rays from a ceiling mounted panel heat up the floor.

Exactly. Mine is suspended ~9' overhead, basically looks just like a 2 by 4 suspended ceiling panel 1" thick. It's in the dead center of the 10 by 12 shop yet everything in the shop maintains the temp it is set at, for me mid 50's is perfect to work in a sweatshirt.

The beauty of it is simplicity, evenness of the heat and no forced air movement. In a well insulated 400 SF space 3-4 750 watt panels should do the job easily.

Regarding operating cost, we are at ~$0.14/kwh so mine costs around ten cents an hour to operate, at a guess it runs 30-40% of the time. Call it $25-$30 a month.

I'd have this in the house if I had figured it out sooner, at least as supplemtary heat.

RMW

EDIT: This is the panel I used:

[attachimg=1]

 

[Cheese]

I'd have this in the house if I had figured it out sooner, at least as supplemtary heat.

I owned a condo about 40 years ago that used those flat radiant heat panels in the ceilings of the various rooms for the only heating method. It was a 80-90 year old house that was turned into condos and they didn't have the option of running forced air ducting throughout. Easier to run wires than ductwork.  [smile]

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Many years ago I ran a NG line into my garage for heat and to use on my homebrewing burner. For a heater I bought a Glo-Warm ventless heater and mounted it on the wall. I have a 2-1/2 car shop/garage that my wife needs her car in. I keep it just above freezing most of the time and crank it up when I work in it. I also have an old ceiling fan that I run 24/7/365 on low to circulate air all year long.

 

[rvieceli]

I find it EXTREMELY helpful to run a dehumidifier 24/7/365. I put a hose on the thing to bypass the bucket and run it outside under the garage door.

Ron