Would like to make a custom MFT

[Toolpig]

Hi guys.

I'd like to build something that would combine the features of a Festool MFT, a "European" style workbench, and an outfeed table for my cabinet saw.  My shop is very small, so this needs to be a "do-it-all" kind of workbench.

Basically, I'd like to make it about 48"x48" and slightly less than 40" high (yes, I'm a tall guy).  

I'm thinking the top would be MDF with dog holes with V-groove tracks all around, just like the MFT.  To that, I'd like to build a wooden base/cabinet underneath with drawers and sliding shelves for systainers and other misc. tools.  I also want to put the whole thing on locking casters so I can swing it around as needed for cutting plywood panels, glue-ups, etc.

Anybody here attempt something like this?  Pictures would be most helpful and appreciated.  Thanks!

Jason

 

[Corwin]

I assembled an MFT that was about 48"x48" from stock MFT parts -- four of the longer MFT 1080 side profiles and the corner castings.  I mounted this between two MFT 1080s to make a large cutting table about 48"x110".  This worked great for mounting a 3000mm guide rail from the guide rail brackets.  But it proved too large to remain in my shop and I disassembled it. 

If you decide to construct such a large MFT-style table, plan on support for the table's top to prevent unwanted sagging.  And you may want to design it such that the top is easily removable to allow it to be moved through a doorway.  Same considerations for the lower cabinet(s)...

 

[jeff monson]

I modified my 1080mft to work as an outfeed table for my last shop, it is mobile and works very well. I made it from 3/4" plywood and a birch faceframe and drawer. I use it mostly for an assembly table now in my new shop.

 

[Hoover]

I made something similar to Jeff's although I don't have any track around it, may or may not do that.  I wanted to make something that would be an MFT and a storage area for my CT 22, two sortainers, and 3 systainers for a few different tools, leigh jig and a few other things.  I'll take a few pic's and post those if I get a chance.  I made my from some leftover Advantech plywood and I did the top out of a middle of the road finish plywood.  A few things I did that you find helpful.  I drilled and glued in dowels into the MFT/storage cart then drilled matching holes into the underside of the top.  This holds perfectly but when I need to replace it, its very easy.  I would also suggest you rethink the 48 x48.  That is very wide and I would think you'll have a center section that is difficult to get any use from.  My set up is 28" wide by 64" long.  I would have done around 44" but wanted some space for the CT too.

Also, isn't 40" going to be very high for an outfeed table?

 

[Daviddubya]

Check out the excellent manual written by Jerry Work.  It was written back in the days of the original MFT, but has a section called "Building the large MFT".  Go here:

http://www.festoolusa.com/support/knowledgebase.html

Scroll down to MFT/3 Multifunction Table, highlight and click Search FAQs.  Then click the link "Getting the Most From The Festool MFT Multifunction Table" under Support Documents & Resources to download the pdf document.

Or Search for phrases like "jumbo mft" or "homemade mft" and you will find numerous related threads here on the FOG .

 

[Toolpig]

Nope, 40" is just below the height of my tablesaw (I'm 6'4" tall, so this is perfect for me).

As for the 48"x48" dimensions -- I want to be able to cut full 4x8 sheets of plywood on it using my TS55.  I suppose it could be a little smaller than that, but I want it to be a square instead of a rectangle so that during glue-ups, I can sit long furniture pieces on it diagonally when needed, since 48" isn't really long enough for that.

Jason

I made something similar to Jeff's although I don't have any track around it, may or may not do that.  I wanted to make something that would be an MFT and a storage area for my CT 22, two sortainers, and 3 systainers for a few different tools, leigh jig and a few other things.  I'll take a few pic's and post those if I get a chance.  I made my from some leftover Advantech plywood and I did the top out of a middle of the road finish plywood.  A few things I did that you find helpful.  I drilled and glued in dowels into the MFT/storage cart then drilled matching holes into the underside of the top.  This holds perfectly but when I need to replace it, its very easy.  I would also suggest you rethink the 48 x48.  That is very wide and I would think you'll have a center section that is difficult to get any use from.  My set up is 28" wide by 64" long.  I would have done around 44" but wanted some space for the CT too.

Also, isn't 40" going to be very high for an outfeed table?

 

[Corwin]

... As for the 48"x48" dimensions -- I want to be able to cut full 4x8 sheets of plywood on it using my TS55.  I suppose it could be a little smaller than that, but I want it to be a square instead of a rectangle so that during glue-ups, I can sit long furniture pieces on it diagonally when needed, since 48" isn't really long enough for that.

Jason, I would recommend that you make your table somewhat larger than 48"x48" if you want to cut full-sized sheets MFT style.  You'll want/need additional room for a fence.  Also, it works better if there is some room between the hinged guide rail bracket and the material you're cutting.  Since you prefer a square table, you might be better served with one say, from 54" to 60" square.  The MFT profiles, however, would not have to necessarily be as long as that -- you could use the stock lengths or cut a length in half.  Some members here have used lengths of profile as short as 12" or so to mount the guide rail brackets in a more or less fixed position.  Lots of design choices. 

 

[Daviddubya]

...As for the 48"x48" dimensions -- I want to be able to cut full 4x8 sheets of plywood on it using my TS55....Jason

Please remember to consider the height of your shop ceiling in the design of your table.  I have two MFT 1080's connected to form a table that measures 62" W X 48" D.  A 55" guide rail is mounted on the 48" side.  Using a standard MFT 1080 fence I can crosscut a maximum of 42".  The 55" rail is actually a bit short for a full crosscut, allowing space on the rail to sit the TS55 to start the cut.  To crosscut a full 48" sheet, you would need a table with a minimum depth of 52".  You would need a 75" rail (a few inches can be cut off).  If your table is 40" from the floor, be sure your ceiling height will allow the rail to be parked in the up position.  In my shop, the standard height table of 32" with a 55" rail clears the 8' ceiling by 13".  There is no way I could park a 75" rail on a 52" deep table in the upright position.  Or you can elect to remove the rail when it is not in use.

 

[Corwin]

...  There is no way I could park a 75" rail on a 52" deep table in the upright position.  Or you can elect to remove the rail when it is not in use.

You also can also use a scrap board about 8" x 18" or so, place foam insulating tape across an 8" edge to hold the rail up so you can remove/relocate the workpiece -- lift the rail and place one edge of the scrap on the profile against the guide rail bracket then lower the rail onto the other end with the foam tape.  While this does not provide the same open access as lifting the rail all the way upright, it will work fine when using longer rails with limited ceiling height.  In my shop I usually have two MFT1080s joined with a 1900mm rail on the brackets, so this is my standard procedure since my ceiling is too low to raise the rail  fully upright as David describes.  I have also used this method to hold my 3000mm rail up off the workpiece without a problem.  Very handy.

 

[daviszr1]

Hi guys.

I'd like to build something that would combine the features of a Festool MFT, a "European" style workbench, and an outfeed table for my cabinet saw.  My shop is very small, so this needs to be a "do-it-all" kind of workbench.

Basically, I'd like to make it about 48"x48" and slightly less than 40" high (yes, I'm a tall guy).  

I'm thinking the top would be MDF with dog holes with V-groove tracks all around, just like the MFT.  To that, I'd like to build a wooden base/cabinet underneath with drawers and sliding shelves for systainers and other misc. tools.  I also want to put the whole thing on locking casters so I can swing it around as needed for cutting plywood panels, glue-ups, etc.

Anybody here attempt something like this?  Pictures would be most helpful and appreciated.  Thanks!

Jason

Just a thought here.  If you build cabinets under the dog holes, you're eliminating the ability to use some (a lot actually) of Festool's clamps.  Just keep that in mind!