(Yet another) 80/20 MFT/SYS Cart

Yep, I contact 80/20 Technical Support today and they emailed me this page from the archives. They no longer offer this fastener (it didn't sell apparently) but it also says T-50 Torx. I'll have to check the tool chest to see if I've got it. [member=21642]Neohio[/member], since you were the first to successfully guess Torx, PM me your address and I'll ship you a temporary tattoo.
 

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Mystery solved. @ $10+ from MMC I can see why it would only get used in a very specialized situation. MMC probably just has old stock.

Thanks for the info.

RMW

ryanjg117 said:
Yep, I contact 80/20 Technical Support today and they emailed me this page from the archives. They no longer offer this fastener (it didn't sell apparently) but it also says T-50 Torx. I'll have to check the tool chest to see if I've got it. [member=21642]Neohio[/member], since you were the first to successfully guess Torx, PM me your address and I'll ship you a temporary tattoo.
 
Richard/RMW said:
Mystery solved. @ $10+ from MMC I can see why it would only get used in a very specialized situation. MMC probably just has old stock.

Thanks for the info.

RMW

ryanjg117 said:
Yep, I contact 80/20 Technical Support today and they emailed me this page from the archives. They no longer offer this fastener (it didn't sell apparently) but it also says T-50 Torx. I'll have to check the tool chest to see if I've got it. [member=21642]Neohio[/member], since you were the first to successfully guess Torx, PM me your address and I'll ship you a temporary tattoo.

Some of the other sized were more reasonable. They might not be old stock. They could be from a different vendor.
 
I want to thank Richard for showing us a great project layout and build.  I am almost done with a similar project.  I decided to have drawers on both sides instead of a single deep drawer.  I will also be working on the top in the coming weeks.  I will use the Parf  Guide tool to create a Dog hole top.

 

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Front Side
 

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Back Side
 

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[member=6610]jg24[/member] How are you supporting/holding/positioning the main top?
 
jg24 said:
Back Side

[member=6610]jg24[/member] Nice! Looks like you even trimmed those top corner brackets to get full access to the t-slot? Never occurred to me to move them down to open up both slots in the top rails, kinda a "duh" moment for me. Great idea.

[member=45856]blaszcsj[/member] easiest option I found was using something 8mm or 5/16" thick to slip into the slot and connect the top to it from below. Scrap of wood or AL bar, etc. You can also shim up if needed as the top will drop in 15mm on the 1515 profile.

RMW

RMW
 
Thanks Richard!  Not sure why I was not notified of a reply last summer.  Better late than never I guess.
 
[member=45856]blaszcsj[/member] Sorry, I never got a notification last summer for your question.  You have probably figured it out by now.  But, the table top is being supported by the 80/20 sold table table brackets.  They go right in the t-slot.  Basically just an L bracket.
 
jg24 said:
Front Side

I am trying to decide on how to make this corner connection of 1515 verticals to 1530 horizontals. 

I know running the 1515 verticals all the way to the top of the 1530 horizontals would be the strongest connection, but more work on routing clamp access to the slots.

Is this connection pretty solid, or would you recommend doing like Richard did which is in between these 2 options? 

Thanks
 
Use 3" x 3" - 1/4" angle on fastened on the inside.  Do not overlap the sides much like the MFT horizontals, this will negate having to rout an access slot to use your clamps.  Fasten your legs to the angle on the inside of the angle.  You could even use a pivoting fastener to fold the legs...again like the MFT. 
 
rst said:
Use 3" x 3" - 1/4" angle on fastened on the inside.  Do not overlap the sides much like the MFT horizontals, this will negate having to rout an access slot to use your clamps.  Fasten your legs to the angle on the inside of the angle.  You could even use a pivoting fastener to fold the legs...again like the MFT.

Do you have a pic of this setup?  I am thinking I would need to inset the vertical legs 1.5" in each direction to join with an internal 3 x 3 angle.
 
Yup, that would work.  I never actually built mine as I have two MFTs.  I have built a lot of jigs with 8020 and actually keep a lot of extrusions in case a brain fart has me modifying anything or building something new.
 
Depends on whether you need to have both slots in the 1530 open. If not, I'd be inclined to keep the 1515 upright in the original position and use the end fastener method to secure it to the 1530 bottom holes. You can add some of the 90 degree tee-nut dinguses for additional support.

Opening the slots for clamp access is really simple with a 1/4" bit and 30mm template guide ring. If I had it to do over again that's the approach I'd take.

RMW
 
Richard/RMW said:
Depends on whether you need to have both slots in the 1530 open. If not, I'd be inclined to keep the 1515 upright in the original position and use the end fastener method to secure it to the 1530 bottom holes. You can add some of the 90 degree tee-nut dinguses for additional support.

Opening the slots for clamp access is really simple with a 1/4" bit and 30mm template guide ring. If I had it to do over again that's the approach I'd take.

RMW

You saying to ditch the tri-corner bracket as well and just run the 1515 vertical all the way up and connect using (2) end fasteners in each direction?

I saw your method for milling the slots without the Festool MFS, which I also don't have.  I will be ordering my extrusion this coming week.  Need to order up some extra sections to test this process.
 
08G8V8 said:
Richard/RMW said:
Depends on whether you need to have both slots in the 1530 open. If not, I'd be inclined to keep the 1515 upright in the original position and use the end fastener method to secure it to the 1530 bottom holes. You can add some of the 90 degree tee-nut dinguses for additional support.

Opening the slots for clamp access is really simple with a 1/4" bit and 30mm template guide ring. If I had it to do over again that's the approach I'd take.

RMW

You saying to ditch the tri-corner bracket as well and just run the 1515 vertical all the way up and connect using (2) end fasteners in each direction?

I saw your method for milling the slots without the Festool MFS, which I also don't have.  I will be ordering my extrusion this coming week.  Need to order up some extra sections to test this process.

That approach would be super strong. You do need to drill an access hole in the slot accurately but it's simple with their jig or even a drill press. Then tap the ends of the 1530 and you are golden.

Saves a ton of money on brackets.

RMW
 
Yeah, I planned on ordering the drill jig for the 1530 profile and then use it for both the 1515 and 1530.

Think I'll stick with my original plan and run the 1515 verticals all the way up and connect with (2) end fasteners and mill out clamp slots.
 
You can avoid the interference problem by attaching the leg on the inside of the angle bracket.
 
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