(Yet another) 80/20 MFT/SYS Cart

[08G8V8]

You can avoid the interference problem by attaching the leg on the inside of the angle bracket.

So something like this?  What kind of fasteners do you use with this?  Just screws and nutplates?

 

[Dusty.House]

Here's another option. You can overlap the extrusions where they meet by just 2/3rds, this gives you enough room to get a clamp in to both sides, and enough surface area to bolt them together.

However, there's not enough room to cover then end of the extrusion. So it get's full of saw dust and I found it got caught on clothes. Both could be solved, I've been thinking about 3D printing a cover that leaves the channel open but covers the holes but I haven't gotten around it....

 

[Michael Kellough]

Nice [member=67145]Dusty.Tools[/member] !

 

[rmwarren]

You can avoid the interference problem by attaching the leg on the inside of the angle bracket.

So something like this?  What kind of fasteners do you use with this?  Just screws and nutplates?

In that configuration you can skip the blue angle and still use the access hole method, instead of the end fastener threading into the tapped hole you's use a t-nut in the 1530 slots.

RMW

 

[08G8V8]

You can avoid the interference problem by attaching the leg on the inside of the angle bracket.

So something like this?  What kind of fasteners do you use with this?  Just screws and nutplates?

In that configuration you can skip the blue angle and still use the access hole method, instead of the end fastener threading into the tapped hole you's use a t-nut in the 1530 slots.

RMW

Yeah, I was trying to model a 3x3 angle to see what rst was talking about with nesting the leg inside the angle.

This would make things much easier and quicker to assemble, but would have to sacrifice 3” of storage in both length and width.

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[Dusty.House]

You can avoid the interference problem by attaching the leg on the inside of the angle bracket.

So something like this?  What kind of fasteners do you use with this?  Just screws and nutplates?

In that configuration you can skip the blue angle and still use the access hole method, instead of the end fastener threading into the tapped hole you's use a t-nut in the 1530 slots.

RMW

Yeah, I was trying to model a 3x3 angle to see what rst was talking about with nesting the leg inside the angle.

This would make things much easier and quicker to assemble, but would have to sacrifice 3” of storage in both length and width.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And you may have to skip a bench dog hole in each corner. You’ll have 3” of metal to avoid.

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[08G8V8]

FWIW, if you decide to go with standard glides, after some trial/error I concluded that the best end panel is made up of 2 pieces of 1/2" laminated then you route a dado leaving an 8mm (5/16") tongue to slip into the slot. With the 15 series profile this leaves the inside face of the panel a couple MM proud of the extrusion and it's simple to mound the glides. These photos show what I am referring to.

[/quote]

Richard, do you still feel this is the best way to go? What about the center dividers, use 3/4 plywood?

I have my 8020 material all tapped and access holes drilled, very similar to your cart.  I am working out what I want to do with the lower portion of the cart, probably drawers on one bank, slide out trays on the middle bank, and maybe leaving the 3rd bank for a Festool MINI or MIDI extractor.

I am laying out the sidewalls and dividers and shelf to determine my material purchase for plywood.

I'm hoping to get this cart wrapped up over this Christmas break.

Thanks

 

[j.wendell]

Wandering into the bottom of my cart as well, did you come up with a method for the drawer slides?

 

[rmwarren]

Whelp, buleev it or not, I found room for another ~27" by 46" cart in the black hole workshop. Been braining myself to find a way to get the Shapeoko off the upper worksurface and a storage/working cart for the infrequent times I actually use the planer. This accomplished both and triples as a router table to boot. Only requirement is the plywood/offcut stash is going to need to find a new home, still TBD.

[attachimg=1]

Just completed the frame, incorporating a 600mm square router table top that's been lurking in the corner for years. I'm waiting for some supports for the ply shelves to finish printing to complete the assembly.

[attachimg=3]

Basic idea is:

• The planer will live on the narrow lower shelf and be move up to the top for use (was considering making it a "flip" top but for once I uncomplicated things a tad)
• The SO3 lives on the large intermediate shelf
• The router top will be hinged at the rear, to use the SO3 I need to flip it up/latch it somehow
• The CNC control panel will attach to the bottom of the router top
• The SO3 Z carriage is moved to the rear/left when the top is down & the router fits to the front/right of it when in use - I think I can access all the router controls
• The SO3 shelf needed to be wider than the preexisting router top, rather than remake it I just cantilevered the balance of the top
• During the 99% of shop time none of these tools are in use the cart lives in the corner where the ply/planer currently squat
• There is some unclaimed space below the SO3 and above the planer yet to be filled, I'll probably toss the excess materials in there until I get something more permanent figured out
• When not in use for routing it gives me an additional worksurface, same height as everything else on wheels

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=4]

Can't wait to get the worksurface cleared off get a couple more bench tools arranged for easier use. That was the prime motivation to do this.

RMW

 

[Michael Kellough]

Good solution, but you might want to move one pair of casters (or add another) beneath the inboard uprights. As it is, the bending resistance of the lower rails is keeping the top flat. When all the things are loaded on it might not remain flat.

 

[rmwarren]

Good solution, but you might want to move one pair of casters (or add another) beneath the inboard uprights. As it is, the bending resistance of the lower rails is keeping the top flat. When all the things are loaded on it might not remain flat.

Interesting point, hadn't considered it.

The middle horizontal extrusions do add some rigidity, but this is the first time I've made a cart without the full top extrusion so I could be underestimating the flex. I'll stress it a bit and see if I get any flex. I think it'll be okay but not totally sure.

Thanks,

RMW

 

[Mike35x95x1]

Richard

I like the design.  Looks like it will give you a lot of storage plus some good strength.  80/20 is really great stuff.  I drew my drawing in Sketchup like you and then sent it to the 80/20 rep for his refinements and quoting.  Worked great to go back and forth that way.

Here's an 80/20 bench I made for Systainers and other items.  Might give you some ideas.

- The upper shelf uses 80/20 back rails with extra standoffs to extend around the overlay top.  I like having the upper shelf so I don't have to bend down for every item.  Most of the overhead Systainers actually go to a destination - like router bits to the CMS or the Vecturo being used away from the shop.
- The sortainers have a strip across the back to hold them in place and keep them from sliding.  There is space behind them for seldom used tools.
- I did a vise on the end with the top offset to provide clearance and the wheels lock giving me a very sturdy bench
- Bottom shelf is for 'future purchases'
- I got the heavy maple top at Woodcraft.  I have a couple of other tables drilled for 20mm holes and clamping
- The plywood shelves were finished with acrylic poly and dropped in place to fit between the posts during assembly.  Looks like you are capturing yours in the 80/20 rails.  I wanted mine to allow full access rather than having the rail extend above them, reducing access from the edge.  They are all screwed down to T-nuts captured in the 80/20
- You can't see it but I captured a power strip on the side rails on the left side with T-Nuts for easy power.

[attachimg=#]

I debated doing pull out shelves but I have the full Systainer port to the left and several other pull out storage units in the shop.

Might give you some ideas.

Neil

Hi, what is the machine on the right side? It looks like some versatile multitool.

DIYer from Europe (TS55, KS60, DF500, OF1010, FS1400, FS-WA/90, FS-PA-VL)

 

[wbarz]

Hi,
I am looking for the 3-way corner brackets, but cannot find these kind of brackets. Does anybody can help me where to find these brackets?

Thanks
Winfried

 

[hdv]

Not sure if this is what you are after, but you might try this:
https://www.motedis.com/en/Corner-connector-3D-40x40-with-M612-screw

Or this:
https://www.motedis.com/en/Bracket-for-Aluminium-profiles

 

[rmwarren]

Winfried if you are looking for the one I'd used it's P/N 14113 from 80/20:
https://8020.net/14113.html

This fits the 15 series, 1-1/2" extrusion.

RMW

 

[Ebuwan]

First off, this thread was incredibly helpful.

So, i bought a small piece of 3030 and 4080 (4040 wasn't available quick where i got it).

So the Festool clamp fits in the slot on the 3030, which has an 8mm slot, and of course fits on the 4080 with a 10mm slot.

Compared to my MFT, the "slop" of the clamp is the same on the 40mm(10mm slot).

On the 30mm (8mm slot) it fits, just of course a lot less sloppy.

Saw this site that makes mft's and such using 30mm:https://www.systeal.com/en/blog/aluminum-rail-for-festool-clamp-n63

Anyone have any thoughts if just going with 3030/3060 for my builds (big bench, mft's, etc) would be a problem?

First question I have; will the Dashboard hardware work on the 8mm slot? That's my biggest question right now to be honest, as I'm looking to acquire that in the near future.

thanks!

Ev