(Yet another) Domino 500 jig...design input/question

Back at you Woodpeckers [wink] It was going to be a while before this was available in the UK and also no doubt even more expensive with the exchange rate and taxes.

Here's mine based on Ola's design and re-mix by Woodpeckers. I made a few design decisions:

1) Shim under the Domino to alter the height as I prefer the repeatability aspect of using fixed shims.
2) Used Microjig dovetail groove for clampling.
3) Used the dovetail track for attaching the square rather than separate holes, which seemed finicky.
4) Added stops on the T-Track so you can setup multiple positions and quickly flip between them.

[attachimg=2]

Here's one for the Woodpecker fans:

[attachimg=1]

And, if you're a hater:

[attachimg=3]

I machined the square out of POM on a Nomad 883 CNC machine. The table is made from HPL (solid phenolic), and the mounting holes and Domino cut-out were machined with a Shaper Origin. Microjig Matchfit grooves routers on Jessem router table, using 8mm clearance pass, then the micro jig special bit for the dovetails.
 

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That is fantastic [member=66875]simonh[/member]

Did you design the square from scratch?

What is POM?

How did you mount/register the moving leg of the square upside to mill the relief on the underside?

Have you (can you) post this project at the Carbide forum?
 
POM stands for polyoxymethylene, also known as polyacetal. It has properties somewhere between nylon and UHMWPE. It is more flexible than nylon and has the low friction of UHMWPE. If I am not mistaken it is called delrin on your side of the pond? Not 100% sure of that though.
 
Nice. People can buy an adjustable guide fence, which is useful for other applications, too.

For those who can afford a bit of time in the shop, they can Google and download a protractor template, and make their own. I use mine with the Veritas Domino Joiner Table:

[attachimg=1]    [attachimg=2]

P.S. Life will be made easier if you use 3/4" ply instead of 1/2" ply for the jig (DAMHIK).

 

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Yes, I designed the square from scratch in Fusion 360.

I use the threaded table on the Nomad with a flattened spoil board mounted to it.

My usual procedure for something like this is to use the origin as the centre hole of the threaded table and the Z origin as the table spoil board. I set up a couple of threaded table jigs on the model, one above and one below the part.

[attachimg=1]

Then, I project a few holes through the model to use as bolting/location points. I lightly double-stick the piece in place and drill the holes to mount the piece to the table with M6 bolts. I then cut the face side.

[attachimg=2]

Then I set up the reverse side in Fusion using the same origin hole on the opposite table. Flip the piece, bolt it down and cut the reverse size. If you got the origin setup good on the Nomad, you should need any changes for the flip. I usually check a couple of X/Y points are where I expect them to be. Otherwise, you might need to shift the X/Y a few thou.

[attachimg=3]

An alternative for a part like this would be to flip the part to re-probe the X/Y for the bottom left of the machined part using the BitZero (manually it is quite hard, with the rounded corner).

Most of the time CNCing parts is thinking through jigs, mounting and where to probe for references.

I'll see about uploading the square to the Nomad forum, although I don't want to upload the entire projector and infringe anyone's design.
 

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Nice jig with some improvements [member=66875]simonh[/member].

I like the protractor fence. And I like that the jig looks very pro in phenolic.
 
simonh said:
Yes, I designed the square from scratch in Fusion 360. ...

I'll see about uploading the square to the Nomad forum, although I don't want to upload the entire projector and infringe anyone's design.

Can you supply a link to whatever you upload? I've got a Shapeoko Pro, so what works for a Nomad should work for me, too, right?
 
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