1080 MFT & TS 75 Saw for Job site.

chrisrosenb

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Joined
Sep 1, 2007
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I have searched the FOG & could not find an answer to this.
I do remodeling & have a cabinet shop. It would be nice to have a table saw on job sites. Most times I just make due with a circular saw & edge guide. It is not the best or safest way to cut, but I make it work. I have looked at the portable table saws, I even went to a demo of the new Bosch table saw this week. The Bosch is a nice saw, I just did not feel comfortable using it & it still has a large footprint to haul to the job. I have been using Unisaws for many years & I can not bring myself to by one of the portable saws.

The Festool MFT & plunge saw combo looks like a nice setup. It looks safe, has a small transport footprint & has nice dust collection when coulped with a vacuum. The MFT also looks it would make a nice workspace on the job.
Are professional  craftsman using this setup on job sites?  If so. How do it work out?   
 
Chris,

Hi.  You should get some good feedback from other members.  Also, search for some posts by Per Swenson, Eiji F, and Brice Burrell.   There have been many others who have posted about this that I've not mentioned.  There are lot of Pros that use Festools this way.   Also, if you look at the Festool promo material, you'll notice that a lot of the videos and pics show the Festools being used onsite with an MFT and DC.

Check out the JLC Finish Carpentry forums here:http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7.   There are a lot of Pro Festool users there.   More specifically, here's a thread about using the MFT in the field:http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38926.  The last post was yesterday morning.

Regarding the question of MFT portability, there have been several posts about adding detachable wheels to the MFT rails to make it easier to move.  One fellow on JLC uses a standard wheeled cart to move his around.  Another made this comment in the thread I mentioned above, "I have an MFT, and it's a PITA to move around a bunch, but if you were cutting cabinet stock it's the best."  8)

You should get some good opinions in this forum, but most of us are Festool owners.  So we're a bit gung ho about the tools.   On the JLC forum, you'll get a wider array of opinions over there, so it's a worthwhile journey over there.   

Finally, you should visit John Lucas' site:http://www.woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm.   His site covers more than just Festool, but his site is heavily oriented to cabinet making topics.    He has about 40-50 multi-page Festool topics.   And he is currently working on a DVD called (get this), "Cabinetmaking with the All-Festool Shop".    Maybe it's just me, but I think that might be interesting to you.   8)

Good luck with your decision,

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., Eli beat me too it.  If seeing Eiji's super-long, onsite guide rail doesn't make you want to jump onboard, nothing will. ;D

 
Hi Chris

I don't make a living as a cabinetmaker.  I did just spend a weekend putting laminate hardwood flooring in my basement suite and the MFT/TS-55/ CT-22 were great on rip and crosscuts. The best part was the dust ended up in the CT-22 and not on the floor.

On another note, we do have a cabinet shop at work and when it came to building the 10 foot Boardroom table the cabinetmaker requested I bring in my TS-55 and rails. The Cabinet saw at work never touched the Boardroom table and it was much easier to move the TS-55 around the work and make the cuts rather then lugging the table through the cabinetsaw. The table also had cutouts for a laptop which the TS-55 handled with ease.

Dan Clermont
 
That was fast. Thanks for all of the info. I have alot of reading to do. After checking out a few of the links, I now see why I did not find alot. Slashes, dashes & spaces. I need to use all combinations. I will call the Cincy Rockler & Woodcraft stores to see if they have the MFT & saws on display so I can check them out.
Thanks again for all of the help.
Chris

 
Start with an extractor and a saw and some rails, then get an MFT and some more rails and a router. The domino. Get a jigsaw and another MFT, and some more rails. Sell your other tools and get a couple of sanders and then another MFT. One more extractor and one more sander. By then you can get the Kapex and maybe the belt sander. And some rails. And a few little accessories.

That's how it feels just after your first cut.
 
Chris,
  I'm a general contractor and my TS55 and CT mini are used on the job very often. My MFT is taken to the job site only when it is worth while, it's not easy to get to the job without taking off the rail and fence. I don't like to remove the fence and rail once I get them setup dead on. I can get my MFT on the truck by myself with taking it apart, it's a bit hassle but doable. I take my MFT to the job when it can have the back of the truck to itself to make sure it won't get beat up on the way. Once you get to the job it is a real asset, no question. I do leave my MFT setup in my work space at home, it gets used there all the time.

  I understand your reluctance to buy a jobsite table saw, if you are used your Unisaw. The TS 55/75 saws can't necessarily replace the need for a jobsite table saw. With the TS55/75 narrow rips aren't the easiest thing to do. If you have to make a ton of small rips the table is a faster and likely more accurate tool. It sounds like your needs may be to size plywood, if so the TS55/75 are a great choice. If you foresee the bulk of your work being the sizing of panels, the TS55 with it's 1 15/16" depth of cut will do that job nicely. If you need more power and a deeper cut the TS75 cuts to 2 3/4". I have the TS55 and have not regretted it at all. I setup saw horses, a few 2x's and a plywood top to make a cutting table.

  And lastly, I would highly recommend getting a Festool vac. I have the CT mini and the CT22 with the boomarm, I use them both all of the time.

  If you give us a better idea of your needs we can fine tune the advice. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
 
I'd like to reiterate Brice's point about describing your needs more.  Posting a pic of your shop and maybe a typical setup on your job site would help tremendously.

The key issue about needs is (obviously) that needs, situations, and perceptions differ, and the the exact solution combo is unique to each user.  For example, Brice's needs and mine are pretty different most of the time.  But sometimes they are similar.

This weekend I'm installing the final small pieces of drywall for my master bathroom remodel.  I'll be taping for the next couple of weeks.  I don't know if Brice does that professionally (I believe he focuses on finish carpentry).  However, in a month or so, I'll be installing a new door, trim, cabinets and wainscotting.  Then, I suspect that his needs and mine will be more similar.  My point is that it's important to all of us that we get the right combo at the right time to satisfy our needs.

Note that the best solution combo may involve both Festool and non-Festool tools.  This weekend, I'll be posting a review of how to connect a Makita belt sander to a CT22 and attach it to an MFT to have a decent fixed sander for onsite sanding.   I also connect my CT22 to a Rotozip for cutting drywall and to some drywall hand-sanding tools for relative dustless sanding (I still do final sanding with a "dusty" Radius 360 round pole sander).

One more point about "onsite".   This has different meaning to different people.   Right now for me, it means my CT22 and MFT are in my master bathroom during the remodel.   The MFT is pretty much core to everything.   It's a place to lay tools, clamp in a bunch of different ways, a "routing table", a "table saw", a drilling platform, and a nice place to lean drywall for rasping the edge.   My Makita belt sander connected to my CT22 has seen hours of work fixing joists and studs that were installed by less than competent folk.   For me right now, "onsite" means having my tool shop and worksite in the same place - a 10 X13 room.   I am one happy camper about this.

In a three-four months, I'll be onsite for a couple of weeks helping a fellow frame and finish his new basement.   The best combo then?   I haven't a clue.  Needs change.

Here's a pic of my current master bath onsite workshop:
MyShop_Smaller.jpg


And here's another at an earlier stage.  At this point, the joists had been planed and shimmed (CT22, HL850, Makita belt sander), two layers of plywood subfloor had been cut (CT22, TS55, rails) and screwed in (C12).   Note that the plywood had to laid in an offset pattern where the edges landed on joists.   They had to be cut to fit with a 1/8" gap between them.   Both layers of the entire floor are square to each other but not the walls (walls are not square) and the gaps are precise to within 1/32nd of inch.   ALL cutting was done with the TS55 and rails with the plywood laying on sheet foam laid on the floor.

The most they had to be moved after cutting (and sometimes recutting because of the walls) was about five feet.   That's much easier than lugging almost full sheets up and down three flights of stairs to cut them in a "shop".
FinishedSubfloorWest_Med.jpg


Finally, here's a pic of my CT22 with the arm detached for transportation.  (Breakdown time was 1 minute.)   For my needs, this works well.   For you, CT Mini or Midi might work better.  Or maybe one for the shop and longer onsite work, and one for shorter onsite work.  Lotsa options:
6_06_04_07_11_10_01.jpg

Again, good luck with your decision.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., Here's a tutorial on how to post pics on FOGhttp://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=292.0.   I think it's pretty good.  Of course, I wrote it. 8)  I'm also the unofficial FOG picture cop.  My mantra is, "Gotta post pics!". ;D
 
As with others, my inshop setup is the MFT 1080.  I am presently arranging my shop space to make better use of the setup.  i also have an MFT 800 that I use outside (on site) the shop.  Even with back trouble, the 800 is easy to move to anywhere I might need it.  I set it up behind my pickup truck and slide lumber from tailgate to MFT.  I sometimes will use a roller stand to give a level extension to the on feed end and use the pickup for the off feed end.  Sometimes, i set up horses and roller stands.  I just very recently purchased the table extension to use with the 800, but liked it so much it found a home on the 1080.  Bob M. will be hearing more from me on that one.  With the extension, or one on each end of the 800, it becomes a much larger work table. 

John Lucas has set one of his MFT's with a router plate so he can use it as a regular router table.  I will soon get an extra insert for my 800 and adapt it in the same way.  I also plan to make another plate to use my Festool jig saw in the inverted position to use in place of bandsaw.  I have two BS's and if that works ok, i could get rid of one of the BS's or atleast move it further out of the main floor shop space.

i have said before, "Your own immagination is the limiting factor to the many ways you can put an MFT to use."  I have to add to that "The FOG has come up with so many more adaptations to really stretch your immagination."

The main problem you will find with the MFT's will be that you could become seriously addicted.
Tinker
 
Tinker said:
...
The main problem you will find with the MFT's will be that you could become seriously addicted.
Tinker
Tinker,

Don't tell him that now!   Wait until he buys one and THEN tell him the bad news. ;D

Dan.

p.s. And on that note, I need to quit writing and go get my MFT "fix". (AKA, start workin'!) 8)
 
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