I recently ripped a sheet of 3/4 ply at 47• and found that my blade kept jamming and the motor cut out (safety i guess) but why was this happening? I slowed the blade speed down as i know its a sore cut but it didn't really. Help. Any one else have this issue?
47° cut problems
- Thread starter kyle541
- Start date
green fever
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- May 26, 2012
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hi kyle and welcome , i guess you are using a ts 55 , how good and what blade are you using for this as 18mm ply is not that awkward to cut even at that angle , also how far are you lowering the blade into your angle of cut , sounds like you are getting a bind some where i would look at your blade first of all then the saw , does it bog down at say 45 degree cuts , i have the 55 r & 75 saws and have not suffered anything like that , try a panther blade if you do a lot of ply , also are you supporting your work piece i know it may sound obvious but you would be supprised how many people do not , make sure your guide rail doesn't move ( clamp it if it does ) how far along the rip does it stop ? let me know i am sure you will get the answer on the forum.
Timtool
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Yup, more info would be welcome.
What tool, voltage, blade and type of ply are we talking about?
That said, going from the supposition that you are using a TS55 i don't think it should have an issue with 19mm ply at all, unless you are using a dull blade with many teeth!
What tool, voltage, blade and type of ply are we talking about?
That said, going from the supposition that you are using a TS55 i don't think it should have an issue with 19mm ply at all, unless you are using a dull blade with many teeth!
jonny round boy
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If there's ANY movement at all between the ply and the bench you're cutting on, you'll get binding in a cut like that.
The best way to do it is to clamp the rail down, and make a cut at 90 degrees first. Then adjust the saw & run it down again at 47 degrees.
It takes a few seconds longer, but another advantage is that all your offcuts are square edged, so you don't need to re-cut the edge to use them in the future (unless of course it's the offcut side you want to have the angle, in which case ignore the above!).
The best way to do it is to clamp the rail down, and make a cut at 90 degrees first. Then adjust the saw & run it down again at 47 degrees.
It takes a few seconds longer, but another advantage is that all your offcuts are square edged, so you don't need to re-cut the edge to use them in the future (unless of course it's the offcut side you want to have the angle, in which case ignore the above!).
Thanks, the blade may have been a little dull as i had used it to cut some oak [crying] but it was fairly new.
It is the ts55 and i was using it on site, most probably was binding by the sound of it, we use 240v over here so it wasn't the power. Ive since used it on oak veneered mdf with no problem and a fine cut so in guessing it was just binding due to either support or a sag in the ply.
It is the ts55 and i was using it on site, most probably was binding by the sound of it, we use 240v over here so it wasn't the power. Ive since used it on oak veneered mdf with no problem and a fine cut so in guessing it was just binding due to either support or a sag in the ply.
green fever
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- May 26, 2012
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hey kyle good to know it seems you have got it sorted, why not try the panther blade you will be supprised at the quality of cut , green.
