Accessories on MFT3 V-channel...

moofie

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2010
Messages
11
Hi y'all.  So I've got these nifty green tools, and I'm looking for ways to make them work for me.  Seems like I might be in the right place.

I've made a couple accessories that hang off the V-channel of my MFT3.  One holds a couple clamps and the clamping elements, and one has an automatic switch for my shop vac (which is useful until I pick up a Festool dust collector).

In order to make the block that rides in the V channel (sort of like a French cleat), I cut some 1x3 scrap on a 45 degree angle with my TS55, and then flipped the stock over and cut the other edge, leaving myself a long block that looks like a Monopoly hotel.  The problem was, it didn't really center up the way I thought it should.

What's your favorite way to make stock to hang accessories from the V-channel?  I'm sure there's a better way than what I'm doing.

(It occurs to me that pictures might be useful.  I'll do that.)
 
First welcome to the FOG [welcome]. As far as mounting accessories to the MFT I have never used the v slot to try and mount anything, but the slot under the V, where the clamps fit, will accept standard 1/4" bolt head coupled with a star nut or some type of wing nut you can hang anything. I have a rack for my clamps and clamping elements on mine. Very handy to keep them close at hand.
 
I told you wrong. I just checked my MFT actually it's 5/16" bolt. Works perfect.
 
I've added quarter-inch bolts (I used the Incra jig-building kit) to my accessories, and that secures things nicely.  However, I figured that hanging most of the weight from the V-channel would keep the lower C-channel from getting torn up by the steel bolts. 

Maybe I'm overthinking it.  The bolts seem to work great, but somehow I'm still stuck thinking that the V-channel is a good idea.  Maybe I'm a nut.  : )
 
I don't think you're a nut.

The v-groove has some advantages...

The first that I see is how easy it makes it to mount and dismount the accessory. You just loosen up the clamp and pivot into place. When you use the t-tracks, you have to come in from the end, which isn't all that bad unless you have a lot of stuff in the t-track already.

The second advantage I see is that you have a solid vertical reference and that can help if you are trying to make something lie flush with the tabletop. It not only can bear weight but when using the side t-track for mounting, there's always a little vertical slop unless you reference the "mouth" of the t-track. That caused more machining and more room for error.

I use both methods for different applications.

Tom
 
Do you have a preferred method for milling v-groove support stock?  I can see how you'd do it pretty easily on a tablesaw (which I don't own), and I can cut the first 45 with no problem, but getting a good reference for the second 45 is tricky.  Best idea I've come up with is to use extra-long stock, and don't cut through the end with my first bevel cut.

But, since I'm new and clueless, I figured somebody else might have a clever notion!
 
Take a board of about 20 mm thickness (a little over 3/4"), set the saw at 45?, position your rail, cut a bevel at the bottom of the board, flip the board over, position the rail at the same distance from the edge, cut the second bevel. You should leave a few mm untouched of the side of the board. With the saw at 0? cut the strip with the V from the board.
 
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