Anyone experienced with Flashing?

[skids]

Not your body parts, I mean areas on house, particularly the deck area.. [tongue]

I know have had questions on this in another thread, but this question centers specifically around the area underneath the sliding patio door and the adjacent left and right sides where the trim board meets the house. I am struggling with how to approach flashing under the sliding patio door since I am not sure I can sneak any flashing up underneath the sliding door far enough with taking the door out. I do not want to remove the door, I know it's probably the best way, but not doing it. This is an obvious problem area on alot of homes, and I am wondering if there are any folks who could provide information or a source online for the best way to flahs this out with the door in place-I can't find much.

What I am after is what is: The best way to flash this area in a way that no water can get up underneath the slider, or in the seams that are going to be where the siding meets the trim board under the sliding door. I was thinking I need to create a counter flash in this area..IN other words install one up underneath as best I can (probably rigid metal material of some sort) the go over it again with the malleable copper material I have. For life of me though I still feel like there will be a weak spot where the slider and siding meet at the trim board area without having something fully wrap that spot towards the interior of the home. I will try and post pics to better explain this.

 

[skids]

 

[skids]

 

[skids]

Whats important to note is, that protecto wrap does in fact wrap inside the house, in the correct fashion a sill pan should. I have a little sticking out, which is unforutnately adhered pretty well..I haven't figured out how to loosen it up yet to be able to potentially use it over any new flashing..I fee like I am going to mangle it if I try to unstick it. Maybe a heat gun will help?

My real concern is the areas left and right..As you can see I could only get so far with the flashing when I installed the slider. I have small amount I might be able to use as an overlap..Sorry I know this one is complex, which is why I asked if anyone had any experience with flashing/siding/roofing etc.

 

[The Next Level]

Sorry!
If I opened that up I would pull the door! Being a contractor there is no way I would warrant this unless. The best route is first pull the door, z type flash the deck ledger then pan flash door sill r/o and work up from there by using vicor or equivalent flashing pre-wrap up sides of opening ect. Could keep going on with this but think you have heard it.
Again Sorry

 

[erock]

From looking at the pictures  at the right of the door the siding goes up to your ledger board.  If that's the case you will want to remove the siding and

install a "z" cap the whole length of the ledger board.  Have the "z" cap go up the wall a couple inches and put protect-0-wrap over the "z" cap.

You would want to remove the siding left of the door as well if it's the same way as the right side.  Once you have a "z" cap over the entire ledger board

you don't have to worry about water getting in.  So when water hits the deck and migrates towards the house between the deck and house it will run into

the "z" cap and run off down the ledger board.  It also seems like the siding was either sitting on the deck or really close to the deck.  The water could have

been wicked up thru the siding if it's making contact with the decking.  At any rate, I believe you need to remove more siding and "z" cap the entire ledger

board.  At lease that's what I would do.  

Keep in mind, I'm not a professional carpenter.....but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn  last night.   [tongue]

Eric

 

[skids]

Sorry!
If I opened that up I would pull the door! Being a contractor there is no way I would warrant this unless. The best route is first pull the door, z type flash the deck ledger then pan flash door sill r/o and work up from there by using vicor or equivalent flashing pre-wrap up sides of opening ect. Could keep going on with this but think you have heard it.
Again Sorry

Thanks..Yes you are right, trying to workaround it..Technically the patio door is sill pan flashed with proteco wrap..What you are seeing is the remnants as I pulled this apart..I was trying to maintain the intergirty of what is there as best I could..When i installed the door I could only pu the protecto wrap up to the existing sliding, underneath a but too..I really don't want to rip this door out as I just put it in. THis would be a costly, and very exhausting mistake.

 

[Old School Carpenter]

Maybe someone has said this before, but PULL THE DOOR [mad] If not you will be kicking yourself for years to come

Mike

 

[skids]

Maybe someone has said this before, but PULL THE DOOR [mad] If not you will be kicking yourself for years to come

Mike

I get it trust me.. I want to weigh all my options before I blow this thing up. For example why couldn't I cut the siding back more as an option.? I know the upper parts of the door are flashed correctly its the bottom part that is the issue and ultimately access would be the only reason to pull the door. There has to be another way to do this worth discussing.

 

[erock]

I don't see any "J" channel where the siding meets the brick mold.  How can you divert water from that corner with out "J" channel or......removing the door?

What if you add "J" channel  and a Azek kicker board under the slider.  With "z" cap on the ledger board ?

Eric

 

[skids]

I don't see any "J" channel where the siding meets the brick mold. How can you divert water from that corner with out "J" channel or......removing the door?

What if you add "J" channel and a Azek kicker board under the slider. With "z" cap on the ledger board ?

Eric

That's cedar siding no j channel. Caulked with urethane caulk at the time I installed the door. It's a good question though that's the area I am struggling with solving .i think if i cut the siding back more I can address that potentially

 

[erock]

Well, how about removing the siding around the door and capping the brick mold.

So your "z" cap on the ledger board goes up to the bottom of the sill of the slider.  Then cap the side brick molding, with the cap extending past the "z" cap

from the ledger board.  Then cap the top piece of brick molding.  That creates a channel for water to run if it some how got behind your caulking.

Just shooting from the hip here guys....again, I'm not a pro.

Eric

---  OR  ---

Remove the brick molding in order to slide some custom bent aluminum behind the siding...so you don't have too remove the siding.  After re-reading what

I posted I quickly realized that removing the siding would be a huge task    [embarassed]

 

[skids]

Well, how about removing the siding around the door and capping the brick mold.

So your "z" cap on the ledger board goes up to the bottom of the sill of the slider.  Then cap the side brick molding, with the cap extending past the "z" cap

from the ledger board.  Then cap the top piece of brick molding.  That creates a channel for water to run if it some how got behind your caulking.

Just shooting from the hip here guys....again, I'm not a pro.

Eric

---  OR  ---

Remove the brick molding in order to slide some custom bent aluminum behind the siding...so you don't have too remove the siding.  After re-reading what

I posted I quickly realized that removing the siding would be a huge task    [embarassed]

This is good advice erock..You're thinking about it the right way..I like your idea on using some sort of rigid flashing to slide under the siding. I have resigned to the fact the I will be replacing some siding here, no way around it. And when you remove cedar it usually splits, even when your strategic about it.

I am thinking just cut out the siding with my little cordless circular saw, same dimension all the way around the door. That will give me some working room and allow me to properly address the flashpoint that is located at the horizontal/vertical intersection at the bottom left and right sides of the slider. Thats the spot I need to lock down tight. Once I do that I can try and sneak a piece under the sliding door, the counter flash the whole thing.

I stand behind my idea this can be corrected without removal of the door. I have a professional coming tomorrow to validate my thinking.

 

[PSullivan]

Go look at Gary Katz's videos on flashing a door properly

 

[skids]

Go look at Gary Katz's videos on flashing a door properly

Any link? I googled it didn't come up with a door flashing project from Gary.

 

[tjbnwi]

Without pulling the door, there is no best way. The door needs to be pulled, a piece of tappered cedar siding placed on the sill, wide part in. Protector Warp, 12" up each side. I then cover with copper flashing Z or straight depending on the application, folded up the sides with the corners soldered.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Go look at Gary Katz's videos on flashing a door properly

Any link? I googled it didn't come up with a door flashing project from Gary.

Not Gary's, but Mean Bill Robison's (yes, that's the name he uses). He is bending vinyl, probably Alum-A-Poles. I've never watched it hope it's good. I'll find Gary's;



Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Go look at Gary Katz's videos on flashing a door properly

Any link? I googled it didn't come up with a door flashing project from Gary.

Tap video, third row, second;

http://m.youtube.com/#/user/THISisCarpentry?&desktop_uri=%2Fuser%2FTHISisCarpentry

Tom

 

[skids]

Without pulling the door, there is no best way. The door needs to be pulled, a piece of tappered cedar siding placed on the sill, wide part in. Protector Warp, 12" up each side. I then cover with copper flashing Z or straight depending on the application, folded up the sides with the corners soldered.

Tom

Cmon Tom you know I take your word as gospel! Don't make me do it!!  [wink]

Kill me please, just end it all now. Pulling this door adds so much to my workload on this project. Ugggh

 

[Old School Carpenter]

I stand behind my idea this can be corrected without removal of the door. I have a professional coming tomorrow to validate my thinking.

Well, seeing as your just looking for someone to agree with you, SURE, your right, you can do it any way you would like. [blink]

You asked for advice,  three Professionals responded to you, and you insist on finding another way, why bother asking? 

Mike