Anyone experienced with Flashing?

I prefer wood to wood contact. Once you seal the top properly water will not enter the seam. You don't Vycor between build up beams or joists, do you? Just Vycor over the top.

If your really concerned about the seam you can run a bead of Sika along to back 1" down from the top then bed the ledger.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
I prefer wood to wood contact. Once you seal the top properly water will not enter the seam. You don't Vycor between build up beams or joists, do you? Just Vycor over the top.

If your really concerned about the seam you can run a bead of Sika along to back 1" down from the top then bed the ledger.

Tom

Yeah I was wondering why he did it that way..Only thing I can think he was trying to prevent water wicking into the sheathing potentially? No clue..He tends to have well respected techniques but this one seems like overkill which is why I asked.

Quite honestly I don't want to trap any moisture thats there in there, and Vycor will do that.

Which seam are you referring to? The cut line of the ply? Or the seam between ledger and house?
 
tjbnwi said:
The seam between the ledger and the house. If you put a bead of Sika along the back 1/2-1" below the top as you bolt it sheathing it will spread and seal the surface.

The AWC does not recommend anything between the ledger and sheathing in their perspective. See page 15;

http://www.awc.org/publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

Tom

Gotcha, thanks!

I have been using the AWC as my reference throughout so I guess I should just stick with that. When it comes to waterproofing there is no rule book though, everyone seems to do it differently. Which stinks since it's so critical.
 
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Any thoughts on this detail? I was thinking of doing this with a deckboard but this seems better.
 
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Well only one wet spot which I think I can live with. Yippee! Glad I did this cause I caught it in the knick of time one more year and I would have been replacing band joists.
 
We'll start with the new AWC deck guide. It has the chart for the derated lumber;

http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

There is no way in he double hockey sticks I would ever install a flashing that directed water into a seam, let alone an end grain seam.

You have to go with a larger ledger than your joists, the bevel rip derates it.

Again, counter flash the board at the house once it is installed, then install your siding.

Tom
 
Just to update, I got the old rotted ply out as you see above, but all the across and beyond the span of the door. Until I saw no signs of water damage. I then replaced the with new PT ply, went in nicely.

I Vycored all the left and right seams of old and new ply. Now I was planning to work my way up from the top of the ledger and tie the Vycor back into that Protecto wrap, whcih I heated and it came up nicely. As you said it will have to be reheated to tack it back down..Once that was all done I was going to flash with the bendable Copper all the way across the ledger again with one piece, and shimmy some up under the slider, and bring the jamb/sill intersection up higher than the sill..Then I cut the siding back further, so my last step would be to flash back down the jambs over the copper with Vycor, panning that between the door edge, back over the flangem and to the wall. Lastly, run a new piece across the top of the door. CLose it all back up with a PVC trim of some sort.

Let me know if you see any flaws in that technique..The protector wrap flashing that is on the sill is actually out far enough for me to tie it altogether, which is great.
 
skids said:
tjbnwi said:
18th photo of this album shows the counter flashing;
https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/TwoToneDeck02#

Tom

Thanks!

Just to make sure I know what I was looking at, was that a peice of flashing of the last deckboard?

Who built that? It's pretty darn sweet!

Yes, that is a piece of flashing on the FIRST deck board.

Seeing as its my Picasa album, I guess I built it. If you click on the link and return to the Picasa album, to the left of "Two Tone Deck" you'll see tbadernwi, tap on it and it will bring you to my home page.  

Make sure you run the existing door Vycor over the top of the flashing.

Tom
 
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What's an acceptable gap
In this location? All the existing
Joists I want to salvage have shrunk back up to a half inch on some. I can catch them all in the hangers just didn't know what was acceptable since that gap seems big.

I figure any new joists will do the same. But want to address this while its opened up if its an
issue
 
If you could have cut them loose from the beam and slid them to the ledger that would have been nice, but........

It appears as if you have over 1.5" of bearing on the hanger, you should be okay.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
If you could have cut them loose from the beam and slid them to the ledger that would have been nice, but........

It appears as if you have over 1.5" of bearing on the hanger, you should be okay.

Tom

I can still so that with the ones that are most questionable. Not all the hangers are installed. Thanks Tom!
 
Skids & Tom, Thanks for the seminar.  Altho i am no longer involved in construction, i have had some experiences in moons gone by.  This project has been very interesting.  My experiences with flashing ended just about the time everybody started using vapor wraps of various kinds to completely cover their buildings.

I built a barn for my equipment storage and my back gave out for heavy climbing and lifting before i could completely finish.  I hat to build a little shed overhang at the over the garage door opening and traded a planting job for the framing of the overhang with a carpenter i had recently met.  He framed, but left no allowance for flashing.  I had never used any sort of wrapping other than black felt paper.  He had never seen flashing for the type of overhang I had wanted.  I had left a couple of rows of shingles out so he could work with the flashing.  He put in the shingles with no flashing of any kind saying he never saw anything flashed in that situation before.  Oh well, gradually, i have managed to get flashing up under there and counter flashed out over the roof. no shingles on the roof yet.  a future project someday when my back lets me climb and work from a ladder (three legged orchard ladder that is)

My cousins have all moved out of the old farmhouse we all grew up in.  Nobody was in the house all last winter for the very first time since over 100 years ago.  There are winds that can blow thru the old structure leaving snow against inside walls.  I have torn back the two chimneys and reflashed, not because they were leaking, but they had been flashed with lead.  the lead would probably have lasted forever, but i had no experience working with it.  i did know how to solder and work with copper.  As far as I know, there appears to have been no flashing around or over any of the old windows (i am going to make a thoro inspection tour with my cuz and others some time this summer) but no signs of water damage ever.  The widow panes are the problem.  We have recaulked several times over the years, but the putty eventually cracks and pulls away.  Hence, the wind blows thru.

as i said, this past winter, the house remained empty with the furnace (installed 40 years ago) held at 50ºF.  My cuz expected a lot of musty smell from mold due to the closure.  The house can breath.  Consequently, not one sign of mold anywhere in the house.  No musty smell.  They were very surprised, but I told them my theory of air circulation. The house can breath.

Oops! Gotta run.  My son & grandson have arrived. we are going out for brunch.  I've alraedy had beakfast hours ago, but what the h---, i have a bad habit of being able to eat any time.
Tinker
 
Brice Burrell said:
Skids, wait until you get Tom's bill. [tongue]

[thumbs up]

I really couldn't have done this without him to be honest..I will have to send him my extra Festool swag from Connect.

Tom gimme your address!  [wink]
 
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