Bandsaw tolerance (Felder FB610)

[CorneliusSK]

Hello all bandsaw users,

My question is about my brand new Felder FB610  bandsaw and I was wondering if any current owner (or bandsaw owner of a different brand) can provide an insight on what tolerances I should expect from the cast iron table?

Last week I received a brand new Felder FB610 and noticed a slight slant of the table right of the positioning pin. Using a straightedge and thickness gauges, I determined that (without the positioning pin inserted) the table left from the blade slot is 0.45mm higher than immediately to the right side of the blade slot. The table then slants even further down to a final low point of 0.6mm at the right edge

Once I insert the positioning pin (which I can only insert about 10mm without resorting to brutal force with a hammer to go any further), the height difference left and right of the blade slot is reduced to 0.2mm, the far right corner is still 0 45mm lower than the left side of the blade slot.

Now, I have never dealt with inspecting tolerances of a bandsaw before, but for a Felder sliding table saw, the Felder manual recommends a tolerance of no more than 0.05mm. The fact is obviously that a sliding table can be adjusted, but a solid cast iron table on a bandsaw has no means of adjustment other than the positioning pin ....

Can any Feler bandsaw users report on their table tolerances and as a matter of comparison,  what do other manufacturer's bandsaw tolerances look like?

And obviously,  what kind of tolerances should I not accept from my bandsaw? To me a difference of 0.45-0.6 mm seems an awful lot, but maybe bandsaws aren't supposed to deliver any better?

Many thanks!

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

You'll probably get a better response posting on the Felder forum, but here's what I can tell you: I'd make the suggestion that the table measurements without the pin inserted don't ultimately matter, since in operation you'll ultimately be using the pin.

With the table pin* in place, on my FB710 the right side of the table at the pin is 0.15mm lower than the left side. Right in front of the blade insert (where it matters) the tables are within 0.038mm, which is as fine as my feeler gauges will read.

When you say "the far side", where exactly are you measuring? I would make the suggestion that nearly any piece you process on the bandsaw will receive multiple future operations, so, depending on what you're doing, and where you're measuring (are you way out at the corner of the table??), the 0.2mm may be a non-factor.

* I didn't like the way the table fine protruded from the table, preventing me from planing a table extension inline with the blade, so I removed the pin, tapped the hole, and am instead using a M12x 40mm grub screw, which now allows me to place my table extensions in line with the blade.

 

[CorneliusSK]

Hello Tom,

Thank you for your feedback.

I guess you are correct that on a bandsaw the tolerances are not as critical and I should not expect too much in terms of accuracy. Again, my main question here was actually this very subject - what should I expect? If my tolerances are industry standard on a bandsaw, then I guess I will have to deal with that (As it seems, your saw is only marginally better than mine - 0.15 vs 0.2). It is also true that I will probably not have any issues when ripping larger beams, rough cutting templates or sawing anything that will be finished/planed/milled right after. My concern was initially the idea of using the saw to cut veneers. Since they are very thin and usually cut tightly against the fence. The biggest part of the workpiece would be resting on the right side of the slot, yet the veneer part would be on the left side of the slot. This (I would imagine) will transfer the angle to the veneer I am cutting. Additionally, I expect it to be difficult to press the workpiece against a fence which is not square to the bottom edge of the workpiece (without wobbling around also because the height difference disappears as we get closer to the blade). The surface essentially has a twist which probably worries me more than a continuous height difference.

All that being said - I suppose I should string it up and give it a try and see if I actually encounter any problems. At the end of the day, the high tolerance may never even affect the work I do.

Once again, many thanks!

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Hello Tom,

Thank you for your feedback.

I guess you are correct that on a bandsaw the tolerances are not as critical and I should not expect too much in terms of accuracy. Again, my main question here was actually this very subject - what should I expect? If my tolerances are industry standard on a bandsaw, then I guess I will have to deal with that (As it seems, your saw is only marginally better than mine - 0.15 vs 0.2). It is also true that I will probably not have any issues when ripping larger beams, rough cutting templates or sawing anything that will be finished/planed/milled right after. My concern was initially the idea of using the saw to cut veneers. Since they are very thin and usually cut tightly against the fence. The biggest part of the workpiece would be resting on the right side of the slot, yet the veneer part would be on the left side of the slot. This (I would imagine) will transfer the angle to the veneer I am cutting. Additionally, I expect it to be difficult to press the workpiece against a fence which is not square to the bottom edge of the workpiece (without wobbling around also because the height difference disappears as we get closer to the blade). The surface essentially has a twist which probably worries me more than a continuous height difference.

All that being said - I suppose I should string it up and give it a try and see if I actually encounter any problems. At the end of the day, the high tolerance may never even affect the work I do.

Once again, many thanks!

If you're primarily slicing veneers, then I would suggest that the more important element to consider is that your fence is aligned with the blade, since most of the board will be supported by the fence, and will not really be interacting with the cast iron surface. The fence on your FB610 has a pair of nylon pads on the underside of the fence body which will allow you to adjust the fence so it's properly aligned with the blade (presumably also square to the cast iron).

I've been very happy with my FB710. I know there are bigger/better machines out there, but for my needs I've been pleased with it, I suspect that once you get your 610 set up it will work well for you. Happy/safe woodworking!