Best Sander for Door Frames

[fidelfs]

quick question?

Do you guys use a machine between coats?  I am not able to use any, because its aggressiveness (even the ets 125).  I always go sanding by hand.

If you use a sander, how do you do it?  Festool sander don't behave well at lower speeds, I just wonder?

 

[ccarrolladams]

quick question?

Do you guys use a machine between coats?  I am not able to use any, because its aggressiveness (even the ets 125).  I always go sanding by hand.

If you use a sander, how do you do it?  Festool sander don't behave well at lower speeds, I just wonder?

Quick question back at you: How many hours a day and days per week do you need to sand?

Many days we build 50 cabinet doors and about the same number of drawer fronts. This is in addition to the cabinet cases and shelves. Each of us years ago had to decide if we could make a living only sanding by hand. Each concluded we needed to become "as one" with our sanders, doing excellent work at a productivity level we can make a living.

I have been making and selling high-end furniture and cabinets for 60 years. Never once did a client ask what proportion of the job was done by hand and what portion was done with power tools. The end-customers are concerned by the way the job looks.

Of course we go the last mile using joiners and planers to reduce consumption of abrasives. Then when we do use abrasives we do so as delicately as possible.

 

[nickao]

That does not answer his question in any way, though it is your view on why you do not do to much hand work.

Any way, to the question how to sand in between coats with a power sander.. I can sand in between clear coats easily using the 150/3 it's what I use and it does not burn though the coats at all. You just do not use the correct abrasive and technique.

I use a 220(sometimes in the 300 grit range as well) grit paper designed for sanding sealers and paints , etc, Festool makes many you can look it up and choose from the chart I posted. Put on your sealer or clear coat and wait until it is completely dry. The sanding in between coats should not gum up the paper to much or you are sanding to soon or possibly put on to much of the clear coat( I find using to much is the number one mistake). I mostly use shellac so I am speaking to that other finishes may have a slightly different method, some else can speak to poly, etc. With shellac it dries fast enough to sand the same day, maybe 3 times between coats(One reason I use it), other materials probably don't unless you work LONG days.

When I sand a slight white chalk dust starts to appear, that's when I know I waited long enough to sand, if the paper starts to gum and I still see chalk I know I am over sanding. If the paper gums up right away its not dry enough. It is a light sanding. A 48" circle takes me about 1 or 2 minutes max to sand in between the coats. Either tack off the white dust left on the surface or vacuum it off (I vac) and then add another coat, by the third coat it will look like glass with no nubs or stuff in the finish to speak of. You can then keep going with coats or just wax over it. I wait until the next day to wax with shellac, some people wait a month or more.

Sanding in between coats with a power sander is doable. For me it is not only faster than sanding by hand, it gives MUCH better results. I would spend a couple days in the shop using the the finishes of your choice to develop a method that works for you. This works for me, there are many correct ways and your mileage may vary.

Note: I don't find the speed of the sander matters, actually I always use the 150/3 at full speed with the CT33 at full speed as well.Keep the sander moving and it should glide right over the surface, if not its probably not dry enough or you grit is to low.

 

[mouppe]

I often use my ETS 125 to sand between coats. Full speed. In many ways, it is easier to control than hand sanding because it is consistent and smooth. It is one instance where a power tool can be gentler than a hand tool. Use an abrasive with a high enough grit and you will be fine. The interface pad also makes it easier.

For example, after a few coats of shellac, I can use brilliant 320 or platin 2 to sand it smooth and remove any imperfections in the finish. I do this without dust extraction to allow the chalky dust to fill the pores. When I lay on more shellac it works the dust into the pores and acts as a sealer.

I don't think there is a right or wrong way to apply a finish, just a right or wrong result. If you get good results with hand sanding, stick with it. Or practise with the ETS on an area of less importance till you are satisfied.

Just my [2cents]