blue 2x4

I am no expert on fasteners, and this is not a statement but more of a question...
I understand a nail used in a high-shear application has to have the 'toughness' to bend a little rather than snap. And I'm guessing that screws made with a steel with the same toughness in a comparable shaft diameter would be preferable to a nail, maybe they are just not marketed here as much as Europe/UK due to the way our codes are written?
 
There are screws that are acceptable for use in shear walls here. They just aren't used much, from what I can tell.

Tom
 
Vindingo said:
Alex said:
Here in Europe most things are done with screws too. Nails hardly have any use anymore.

This has to be due to different construction methods.

Are you telling me that they would build a house like this (stick framing) with screws? 
bluwood-brunswick.jpg


It would literally take twice as long. 

I would screw it!  Especially the roof I only screw or bolt roofs now don't use nails any more.  The structural screws I use are stronger than nails. I read some where it said a structural screw is equal to a 10mm bolt..  You can get screws in longer lengths and unlike a nail the screws pull the joints up really tight and solid.

Thing is we don't Really do building that size completely out of wood.

Jmb 
 
Pete Pedisich said:
I am no expert on fasteners, and this is not a statement but more of a question...
I understand a nail used in a high-shear application has to have the 'toughness' to bend a little rather than snap. And I'm guessing that screws made with a steel with the same toughness in a comparable shaft diameter would be preferable to a nail, maybe they are just not marketed here as much as Europe/UK due to the way our codes are written?

We do have structural screws here. The GRK RSS would be considered a structural screw. I know that Simpson makes structural screws as well. In some situations, Im sure the GRK R4 would be fine. It just would not make any sense to screw a 2x4/2x6 wall together with these. It would take well over 2x as long as shooting with a gun. Im pretty sure I could hand nail faster than someone could screw off while framing a wall.
 
Wow did this topic go off the original post!  I'll just say that I cover all of my bases by hammering in Robertson headed screws into all of my framing and trim work.  I also make sure that I countersink the screws into all trim with extra hammer blows using my waffle faced hammer.
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Wow did this topic go off the original post!  I'll just say that I cover all of my bases by hammering in Robertson headed screws into all of my framing and trim work.  I also make sure that I countersink the screws into all trim with extra hammer blows using my waffle faced hammer.

Atta' boy good ole Yankee ingenuity! If you have a nice hammer you gotta use it.
Tim
 
Have seen more than  a few homes built down here with blue wood.  It's so humid most of the time it seems like a no brainer to use, but from what I understand the cost is about 20% more(?) than regular studs.

Also, down here instead of using blue wood, once the house is framed, a crew comes in and treats the bottom 1/3 of the walls on the first floor with looks to be a similar colored compound prior to sheetrock stage.  I'm not sure what it is since I'm rarely in houses that early on.

Jon
 
Shawn,

I used the blu lumber for building my barn, which is basically steel "miracle" trusses with horizontal 2x6 in between, mostly for providing a fastening point for the steel siding. If you look at some of the videos I've posted, you can see them in the background.

The blu lumber is treated with some kind of chemical that is supposed to make it termite and mold proof. It cost me about an extra $500 for the lumber to do it that way.

What I learned:

- If I understood them correctly, the chems were applied at the lumber yard. I know this because I complained about the fact that the blue kept rubbing off on EVERYTHING.
- It does not penetrate enough to make the entire piece blue throughout
- When I mentioned it to our building contractor consultant, he said there just wasn't enough of a moisture/mold problem here in California to warrant it.
- I think it's targeted at the south east US climate
- I asked if it could be used for sill plates instead of pressure treated, and they said no!

I have my concerns about just how good something can be that gets applied like that and doesn't penetrate all that deep. I just came away feeling like it was gimmick. YMMV. Basically, seems like every exposed end would still be an entry point for termites.

Just due to the mess (I had blue clothes!), I didn't use it on the house.
 
fritter63 said:
Shawn,

I used the blu lumber for building my barn, which is basically steel "miracle" trusses with horizontal 2x6 in between, mostly for providing a fastening point for the steel siding. If you look at some of the videos I've posted, you can see them in the background.

The blu lumber is treated with some kind of chemical that is supposed to make it termite and mold proof. It cost me about an extra $500 for the lumber to do it that way.

What I learned:

- If I understood them correctly, the chems were applied at the lumber yard. I know this because I complained about the fact that the blue kept rubbing off on EVERYTHING.
- It does not penetrate enough to make the entire piece blue throughout
- When I mentioned it to our building contractor consultant, he said there just wasn't enough of a moisture/mold problem here in California to warrant it.
- I think it's targeted at the south east US climate
- I asked if it could be used for sill plates instead of pressure treated, and they said no!

I have my concerns about just how good something can be that gets applied like that and doesn't penetrate all that deep. I just came away feeling like it was gimmick. YMMV. Basically, seems like every exposed end would still be an entry point for termites.

Just due to the mess (I had blue clothes!), I didn't use it on the house.

This doesn't sound like it's "the real thing".  The actual chemical treatment is done by the manufacturer and penetrates through the wood.  There's no claim of it being "...proof", just resistant.

I still have gallons of Cuprinol that I use to treat non-pressure treated lumber and cut ends on pressure treated.  Like everything good, that stuff was banned from production.
 
I can not imagine re-coating every cut you make, with the blue coating. It would become very time consuming.
 
Greg, if you're referring to me, Cuprinol is green like Festool and technically you are required to treat any exposed cuts.  Do most carpenters?  No, but down the line, there could be potential exposure for biting you in the a s s.
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Greg, if you're referring to me, Cuprinol is green like Festool and technically you are required to treat any exposed cuts.  Do most carpenters?  No, but down the line, there could be potential exposure for biting you in the a s s.

Sorry Ken  it was just a general open comment about blue wood.

I would also wonder about the effect of blue wood on people that are sensitive to chemicals? 
 
Greg,

The Blue Man Group has shown no ill effects other than a lack of something to say.  [big grin]
 
You can get red 2x1 that's used for roofing battens (to tile onto). Means it's treated and the building inspector can just look at the colour and know you've bought the right stuff !
 
they would be ohn brash lath you speak of, but have you known an inspector ever question roof lath?
 
BobKovacs said:
ShawnRussell said:
btw, is the advice on the show pretty spot on or is there a lot of tv wizardry?

My biggest issue with the show is that none of their carpenters seem to own a hammer or a nail gun- they screw everything together.  I've seen them screw deck framing together (even with hangers), screw studs to plates, etc.  I don't know about the codes up there in Canada, but here in the US, the IRC doesn't allow screws for those applications.

Screws hold stronger, and they last a lot longer than nails.
 
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