Brad Point bits with Hex Shank
- Thread starter 72anthony
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Hafele is a premium brand, and they sell brad point bits, but it seems, not in sets, only individually.
https://www.hafele.com/us/en/product/brad-point-drill-bit-hss-with-hexagonal-shank-1-4-/P-00878158/
Of the lower tier brands, I’ve had excellent results from UXCELL, sold on Amazon. I’ve seen brad point bits from them, sold in sets of one size each 4 or 5 drill bits.
And ROMAN brand, also on Amazon, but I have only used their carbide bits (especially their Forstner bits) and they have been uniformly excellent.
I think DeWalt also sell them. DeWalt is mostly middle of the road from my experience.
https://www.hafele.com/us/en/product/brad-point-drill-bit-hss-with-hexagonal-shank-1-4-/P-00878158/
Of the lower tier brands, I’ve had excellent results from UXCELL, sold on Amazon. I’ve seen brad point bits from them, sold in sets of one size each 4 or 5 drill bits.
And ROMAN brand, also on Amazon, but I have only used their carbide bits (especially their Forstner bits) and they have been uniformly excellent.
I think DeWalt also sell them. DeWalt is mostly middle of the road from my experience.
If you are ever tempted to try using an auger point bit, be advised that you will have no control over the feed of the cut relative to the RPMs.
I bought a Wood Owl brand, 3/4” diameter that has drilled over 200 holes in 3/4” thick MDF. The holes have always been clean and crisp. The bit is ready for more.
But I have always dreaded using it. It will pull the bit through the stock, and if you are not quick enough in releasing the trigger, it will go through the backing board too.
Others are trading on similar “owl” names and are likely not as good.
I bought a Wood Owl brand, 3/4” diameter that has drilled over 200 holes in 3/4” thick MDF. The holes have always been clean and crisp. The bit is ready for more.
But I have always dreaded using it. It will pull the bit through the stock, and if you are not quick enough in releasing the trigger, it will go through the backing board too.
Others are trading on similar “owl” names and are likely not as good.
Similarly [member=74278]Packard[/member] I have drilled many 3/4" crisp holes with nary a blowout, even when I can't use a backer board. The WoodOwl brand of "overdrive" auger bits is stellar (so named as they cut so easily they save drill battery power; also hex shank assured torque).
I have a spacing jig employing a steel bushing as laid out in the below linkage.
Excellent small business source:https://taytools.com/products/3-4-doweling-jig-kit?_pos=7&_sid=992da4c85&_ss=r
[member=57948]ChuckS[/member] I swear by Fisch ... and Rob Cosman. ;-)
I have a spacing jig employing a steel bushing as laid out in the below linkage.
Excellent small business source:https://taytools.com/products/3-4-doweling-jig-kit?_pos=7&_sid=992da4c85&_ss=r
[member=57948]ChuckS[/member] I swear by Fisch ... and Rob Cosman. ;-)
Huey52 said:
I used that same bit with the pictured bushing (From Amazon). But I see it has been discontinued. I liked the extra length and the collar at the top.
I used a “foolproof” spacing method for each of 3 tables. I screwed down a piece of 3/16” thick peg board on a piece of MDF. Both oversized so I could cut off the screw holes.
I then taped off (masking tape), all the holes I did not want to drill.
I then uses a Vix bit to drill pilot starter holes. I used a 4” on center spacing.
Then a small holder for the bushing to keep my holes perpendicular to the board. I set the auger point into the starter holes and drilled. Tedious work.
On each of the three tables I managed to have one hole out of alignment. In each case at a different spot. Obviously human error, but I cannot figure out how I did that.
The exact spacing is not frequently required. To resolve the issue, I used a marking pen to encircle the offending hole. If the spacing is an issue, I move around on the table to avoid that hole.
I still have not figured how my “foolproof” method, fooled me.
I have spade bits, but I don’t think they would do well in a bushing (though I never tried).
This is the bushing I used:
[member=74278]Packard[/member] - Using the jig outlined by TayTools was "idiot proof" for me (which is always an achievement [big grin]). Once the first hole was located/drilled all subsequent were located via a bench dog in the jig; rinse & repeat.
My latest was a portable bench for my grandson. It was used the same day as delivered for his Scouting troop activity. Thanks to "Stumpy Nubs" (James Hamilton) for the inspiration.
My latest was a portable bench for my grandson. It was used the same day as delivered for his Scouting troop activity. Thanks to "Stumpy Nubs" (James Hamilton) for the inspiration.
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What in the heck did that picture have to do with drill bits?!
Please don't bother answering that question even if there is a legit connection.
Even if it was a legitimate attempt at humor or some connection to the drill bits. I see no way that it would have been perceived in a non-racist way.
Seth
Please don't bother answering that question even if there is a legit connection.
Even if it was a legitimate attempt at humor or some connection to the drill bits. I see no way that it would have been perceived in a non-racist way.
Seth
Crazyraceguy
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Same for me. The metric brad-point set that I got some time ago were Fisch. They are fantastic, best bits I have ever used.SRSemenza said:
Crazyraceguy said:
StuMac, the luthier supply house, sells both metric (8 piece sets) and imperial sizes, (7 piece sets).
Note: I cannot understand why the 7 piece set costs the same as the 8 piece set.
The order form shown below is an image and not a functional order form.
Specialty supply companies like this rarely are super competitive, but it is worth a look. There are some things you cannot find elsewhere. That is where specialty houses reside.
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too..._cSlsiJwuEMLPaeG1JQUHX78hqkzB980aAiWnEALw_wcB
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