Probably newbie questions, but is face jointing that important? I just had a brainstorm...couldn't you use a TS55/75 to do edge jointing? IE, lay your board to be jointed flat, use the TS55/75 with guide rails to cut one edge perfectly straight, then use your table saw to cut the parallel egde. To make the board perfectly square, you could even use your SCMS on the ends to finish it up. Does this make sense to everyone? Unless I'm missing something, it might be pointless for me to continue looking for a good 6" jointer...
Brainstorm - Edge jointing with TS55/75?
- Thread starter Aegwyn11
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Brice Burrell
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Aegwyn11 said:
What you described works. The reason to buy a jointer is to surface plane faces of rough stock, if you have the need. I happen to find edge jointing easier on the jointer.
The TS is very effective for edge jointing boards. Bob Marino has a tutorial on his method - http://bobmarinosbesttools.com/tip_detail.html?sid=a4105b688fbb384903dc807357e7db79&tid=18.
Like Bruce, I still prefer to use a stationary jointer, but have used this method when onsite.
Like Bruce, I still prefer to use a stationary jointer, but have used this method when onsite.
Aegwyn11 said:
I also agree with Brice that a jointer would be the tool of choice, unless of course you were jointing plywood, MDF, etc. The problem with using the 55 is that you have to be sure that the "parallel" edge to one you are cutting is already square. Otherwise you would have to somehow determine the angle of the edge you are trimming.
I have tried it and found it hard to get it right. Someone with more experience than me could probably make it work.
Neill
Neill said:
I'm not to worried about the 2nd edge...I figure that once I have a clean straight edge, I can flip the board around a rip the parallel edge on my Unisaw (with the edge just cut by the TS against the fence).
Brice Burrell said:
Again, probably the newbie in me talking, wouldn't you use a planer to clean up the faces of rough stock? Of course, as I'm typing this, I'm wondering what you would do if both faces were rough...
Brice Burrell
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Aegwyn11 said:
The jointer flattens out rough stock. A surface planer will only follow existing deviations. If you plane a board with a slight twist it will come out with the twist. If you first carefully run the twisted board through the jointer it will true up the board.
Aegwyn11 said:
Maybe I wasn't clear in my first post. I guess I am having a harder time explaining it than doing it.
What is so nice about the jointer is that it squares up one edge regardless of the opposing edge. That is why you put the jointed square adge against your table saw fence and cut off the uneven edge. If both edges are out of square how would you use your MFT3 fence to rip one edge square? It would sit at an angle against the fence.
If you squared one edge with the jointer you could then easily use your MFT3 with your 55 to square up the parallel edge.
Am I doing any better?
Neill
I thought that's what the guided saw was made for, wasn't it? Even if you have a large jointer it may be good to make that first pass with the guided saw. One pass will make it straight guaranteed. Then you can make a thin pass on the jointer to finish up. I often get boards that are going to need to have 1/4 to a 1/2 taken off on the ends which would mean several passes on the jointer. Plus you can angle the guide to align that first edge with the grain. Plus if the board is a little twisted or bowed it usually doesn't matter because the guide will ride on it and still provide a square cut.
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Bob posted my page and it does encompas the method. Cutting parallel eges and/or square ends are both easily accomplished on the work table with TS55 or TS75. I sold my Unisaw and 8" DJ 20 jointer over a year ago and do everything with the Festool guide rail system. I did that to prove a point and I needed the floor space.
This is the Festool sub-menu on my site: http://woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm
The Bob story is about half way down:
Here is Beth working with a 7 board glue up for a large dining table. All piees were rough edges when we got them and we just cut where the length would have good grain.
This is the Festool sub-menu on my site: http://woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm
The Bob story is about half way down:
Here is Beth working with a 7 board glue up for a large dining table. All piees were rough edges when we got them and we just cut where the length would have good grain.
Holzhacker
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I always have a hard time understanding this whole edge jointing boards problem. Before rails and a TS75, I used straight boards, clamps, my wormdrive and a hand plane to make great joints. Not saying I'm a rock star or anything. I'm a damn good carpenter but clearly the furniture guys on this board can kick my _ss with their fine craftsmanship (see Bill W.'s humidor).
Measure, set a jig and let that saw rip. I was always taught part of how good you are depends on how well you handle your tools.
Measure, set a jig and let that saw rip. I was always taught part of how good you are depends on how well you handle your tools.
fshanno said:
You can use a CS and a guide if the board is (S2S) Flat.
First step is to face joint the board.
Second step is to plane the board for easier edge jointing with a CS.
If the board is twisted or bowed the guide rides on the twisted board and the cut is out of square.
Your first step working with lumber is to establish one good side for the second step.
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Tezzer said:
Tezzer,
I wouldn't want to "rob" anyone of credit but am not aware of any McGilp posting of use. I developed method when I had bad bunch of boards and gave it a try and was pleasantly surprised that it worked so well. I initially intended to get a rough cut that I could then take to jointer to finish off. That is when I saw that the fresh cut board had such a good edge to it. So, not to take away anything from McGilp but it didnt just happen that way.
R
Rob Z
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Holzhacker said:
Same thing for me, except my straightedges were/are aluminum straightedges for tile work. ;D I did just buy a jointer for the shop and find it a real luxury after all these years of using the WD and my Porter Cable door plane to tune up lumber.
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Rutabagared said:
Joe,
I use the same method...TS55 and long guide rail on worktable. Very fast and accurate. I use the Panther blade but if edge is too rough, I switch and take off a kerf width with one of the fine tooth blades.
Michael Kellough
Member
Not to take credit away from anyone or diminish the delight that comes
from re-inventing the wheel, but Bob Marino demonstrated the technique
to John Lucas around 2004 (or earlier) when FOG was still a Yahoo group.
John then posted the technique on his woodshopdemos.com site and told us
about it in Yahoo/FOG. Thanks again!
from re-inventing the wheel, but Bob Marino demonstrated the technique
to John Lucas around 2004 (or earlier) when FOG was still a Yahoo group.
John then posted the technique on his woodshopdemos.com site and told us
about it in Yahoo/FOG. Thanks again!
Bob Marino
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Michael Kellough said:
Hi Michael,
It was John's technique I was demostrating waaaaaaaaaaay back when.
Bob
Tezzer said:
To get perfect gluable joints with a CS you have to flip the boards.
The right and widely used method by the pro's is to layout the boards for grain matching.
The next step is to flip every other board.
If your cut isn't 100% perfectly vertical (90 degree) it doesn't matter because the following cut makes up the difference.
It helps to mark and numbered all the boards before you start cutting.
Cleaning up the rough edges after the CS, ( if needed) better done with a router or a single pass with a planer.
Cutting at the edge of the board or cleaning up the edges with a CS is problematic because the resistance to the blade is one sided and the blade is going to flex.
Michael Kellough
Member
kosta said:
This is true with a table saw or an ordinary circular saw where you only trim
one edge of one board at a time. With the Festool system you can trim two
mating edges simultaneously, face up with the grain matching as you like.
You don't need to flip boards since any negative pitch on one edge of a pair
of boards is matched by an equal positive pitch on the edge of the mating board,
automatically.
