Brines M10-A10 MLT Speaker Build.

[tbellemare]

You might try double stick tape on a sacrificial surface to hold the disappearing disk.

Tom

 

[Sparktrician]

I never knew PVC could sound so good  [tongue]

The Linkwitz Crossover has been on my build list for awhile now!

JT

HA!!!  Ever listen to Blue Man Group?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE-NLS47YMU

 

[iamnothim]

You might try double stick tape on a sacrificial surface to hold the disappearing disk.

Tom

That would make too much sense. [blink] 

All the holes are cut.  Had a little kerf miscalculation on the baffles.  If they sound crappy I'll blame it on that.
Tomorrow I'll set some index dominos and put the leading maple edge on the sides.

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[Dogberryjr]

You tackle the most interesting projects.

 

[iamnothim]

You tackle the most interesting projects.

I always wanted to make some big holes.
It's so easy with the MFS400.
The hose and cord don't get in the way because the router never turns.  It's slick

 

[rmwarren]

[eek]

Also, can't believe there are other Festoolians out there that love hand tools + tww + Roubo + diyaudio  [big grin]
JT

It's Festusians...

"Come on Marshall Halle!  The Dewalt brothers are hiding out in the canyon."

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Luke, I actually laughed out loud, none of this lol stuff!

Gotta admit I check out your threads no matter the subject, just for sheer entertainment value.

Thank you.

RMW

 

[Wuffles]

You tackle the most interesting projects.

I always wanted to make some big holes.
It's so easy with the MFS400.
The hose and cord don't get in the way because the router never turns.  It's slick

I'm rubbish at stuff like this, so I normally make a template the fiddly way and use that with a flush cut bit to do the rest of . You can mess up a template as many times as you like without losing too much hair. Your avatar suggests you have a lot of hair, so you're good to go whichever way.

I'm going to try and build some speakers myself when you've figured out all of the pitfalls for me.

 

[No Clue]

You had my attention at the Audeze cans and DIY tube amp.  8)

I always wanted to do a speaker build but was too intimidated by the electronic part of it. I look forward to watching your build.

 

[Iceclimber]

I also love following the things you build.

Even more i enjoy the personality you bring to the threads. I find your perspective refreshing...

 

[tjbnwi]

You might try double stick tape on a sacrificial surface to hold the disappearing disk.

Tom

What Tom said, or leave the last 64th of an inch uncut, pop the slug out by tapping the piece towards the hole.

The tape route is better, use the 3M morning tape (white), not the 3M VHB (black). A few strips across the back of the piece, stick it to the work surface, route away.

Tom

 

[iamnothim]

You might try double stick tape on a sacrificial surface to hold the disappearing disk.

Tom

What Tom said, or leave the last 64th of an inch uncut, pop the slug out by tapping the piece towards the hole.

The tape route is better, use the 3M morning tape (white), not the 3M VHB (black). A few strips across the back of the piece, stick it to the work surface, route away.

Tom

Toms

Will the tape mung up the router bit?

 

[iamnothim]

It’s time to strategize the assembly.  I’ve been mulling over different  approaches.  I’ve only built cabinet boxes with removable shelves.  This has fixed baffles.

I took rabbets for the baffles off the table for a couple of reasons, so the top, bottom, and baffle pieces are square and butt, internally, to the front, back, and sides.

I’m going to have to assemble in stages.  I will veneer the front with the burl, using the bag, before assembly since the face is inset to the sides.  About a 5mm reveal.

The top veneer to front edge is interesting.  I have three choices.  1) Bag veneer both and miter the top to the front.  I don’t like the risk reward on that.  2) Bag the top with a 19mm flap that isn’t glued.  Tack the flap down to the front edge after the top is glued to the face.  3) Or. Forget the bag and use a caul to hold the top veneer.

So now the top is attached to the face.  Burl veneer applied an the front is glued to the top.

What next?
I’m thinking a few index dominos on the inside face for the baffles and the bottom.  Glue up.

Do I attache the back at the same time?  Not sure.

Now the baffles, top, and bottom are attached to the front and back and it’s dry. 

Sides.
Next thought.  Mark lines on the sides where the baffle edges will be.  Index the perimeter with dominos.  Glue up one side at a time and secure the baffles to the side with recessed screws.  When dry I will fill the holes on the sides with, what else, Bondo.

All the sides are on.  I’ll bag the box and apply the maple veneer to the sides and back.  Three pressing flus trim between pressings.

Yo, calling cabinet pros…..  what do you think?

Veneer...
Do I sand off the finish from the plywood before bagging?

 

[Wuffles]

You might try double stick tape on a sacrificial surface to hold the disappearing disk.

Tom

What Tom said, or leave the last 64th of an inch uncut, pop the slug out by tapping the piece towards the hole.

The tape route is better, use the 3M morning tape (white), not the 3M VHB (black). A few strips across the back of the piece, stick it to the work surface, route away.

Tom

Toms

Will the tape mung up the router bit?

Clamp a larger piece of wood underneath (obviously outside the diameter of the cut) instead of tape and you're golden.

 

[iamnothim]

Clamp a larger piece of wood underneath (obviously outside the diameter of the cut) instead of tape and you're golden.

It is important to secure the hole cutout.  I didn't before Tom's post.

 

[iamnothim]

It’s time to strategize the assembly.  I’ve been mulling over different  approaches.  I’ve only built cabinet boxes with removable shelves.  This has fixed baffles.

I took rabbets for the baffles off the table for a couple of reasons, so the top, bottom, and baffle pieces are square and butt, internally, to the front, back, and sides.

I’m going to have to assemble in stages.  I will veneer the front with the burl, using the bag, before assembly since the face is inset to the sides.  About a 5mm reveal.

The top veneer to front edge is interesting.  I have three choices.  1) Bag veneer both and miter the top to the front.  I don’t like the risk reward on that.  2) Bag the top with a 19mm flap that isn’t glued.  Tack the flap down to the front edge after the top is glued to the face.  3) Or. Forget the bag and use a caul to hold the top veneer.

So now the top is attached to the face.  Burl veneer applied an the front is glued to the top.

What next?
I’m thinking a few index dominos on the inside face for the baffles and the bottom.  Glue up.

Do I attache the back at the same time?  Not sure.

Now the baffles, top, and bottom are attached to the front and back and it’s dry. 

Sides.
Next thought.  Mark lines on the sides where the baffle edges will be.  Index the perimeter with dominos.  Glue up one side at a time and secure the baffles to the side with recessed screws.  When dry I will fill the holes on the sides with, what else, Bondo.

All the sides are on.  I’ll bag the box and apply the maple veneer to the sides and back.  Three pressing flus trim between pressings.

Yo, calling cabinet pros…..  what do you think?
Also, should I sand off the finish from the pre-finished ply before veneering?

 

[Wuffles]

Clamp a larger piece of wood underneath (obviously outside the diameter of the cut) instead of tape and you're golden.

It is important to secure the hole cutout.  I didn't before Tom's post.

Sorry, I missed a vital part. Pin nail the circle you are cutting out to the bit of wood clamped underneath. It's secure and won't fall out when you finish the 360 degree sweep - unless you've gone too deep with your router bit  [blink]

 

[tjbnwi]

You might try double stick tape on a sacrificial surface to hold the disappearing disk.

Tom

What Tom said, or leave the last 64th of an inch uncut, pop the slug out by tapping the piece towards the hole.

The tape route is better, use the 3M morning tape (white), not the 3M VHB (black). A few strips across the back of the piece, stick it to the work surface, route away.

Tom

Toms

Will the tape mung up the router bit?

Tape has no affect on the router bit.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Use the Domino to index the various pieces. Make a fixture/jig to keep alignment throughout the process.

I have to think about the veneer......

Tom

 

[Tinker]

We have a cabinet my father built back in the early 1930's.  We originally had the old hand crank "victrola" in the top with record storage underneath. I remember cranking it up for each record.  If we got lazy and did not crank enough, the music would get real draggy. The player had the megaphone on top so your could hear across the room. We had to change the needle quite often.  My parents bought them in little packages of something like a dozen to the pack.  I remember seeing several packages piled in the corner of the deck where the "victrola" sat.

I read all of the messages ahead of me and I know absolutely nothing of what you speak.  Victrolas and hand cranks and scratchy music and squeaky voices, all getting slower and slower between cranking, that's what i understand.  But i am only 39, so what do you expect. :

Just before my parents decided they had had enough of each other, they got a new record player.  We still referred to it as a "Victrola".  that is sort of like calling a refrigerator an "ice box"  I still make that slip now and then.  That new "Victrola" we called a "phonograph", I think.  Then, during the war years (WW II), my mom kept it down in NYC.  Eventually, a newer record player ended up with Mom, my brother and me in Wilton, CT.  We about wore that one out.  By then we had the record player and radio in combination.  The record player was mounted in the top of the cabinet and radio in the bottom where we used to keep records.  We went thru a couple of record players before the cabinet and scratchy record player ended up in my house.  That was after I had married.

My father offered to fix the player, so we took it down to NYC for him to play with.  When we got it back, he had put in a much better record player, still only playing 78's, but much better quality.  He had also designed and installed a scissor mount that when we raised the top of the cabinet, the new record player rose up to the top of the cabinet.  We could still store records in the bottom of the cabinet.  We still have the record player but it no longer works.  Something in the wiring.  We can still get it to spin, but no noise comes out.  We can no longer find the needles that go into the player.  They were very expensive and for the last few years we played it, we had to order the needles special order. 

The hole in the side of the cabinet where we put the crank is proof of the era of origin.  The cabinet is back in a corner of THE BOSS'S sewing room.  Covered with sewing materials. I don't dare drag it out for picture taking  [eek]
Tinker

 

[iamnothim]

Started the edge "bands"

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