Bury me with my CMS

[Rick Christopherson]

Maybe I should have stated conclusions. I get the feeling that our two electricians here didn't catch the implications of what I wrote.  [tongue]

My math is a little fuzzy this morning. Anyone know what 12.5 x 4 = ?

 

[sancho57]

A word of advise seeing as you are [not] using the 2200 in the CMS table. There is a clear dust shield to keep the shavings out of the ratchet area. When you install it make sure you rotate it clockwise to lock it in place. If you don't you'll be here asking how to remove the bit because the ratchet does not work.

If you want to use 1/4" bits, the 1/4" collet from the 1400 fits the 2200.

Tom

sense your not using the 2200 in the CMS if the ratchet doesnt work take off the black cover on the top of the router and clean out all the dust and reinstall.

 

[sancho57]

Do you use the switch of the CMS with the OF2200? Rumour has it the USA switch is not rated for the large current the OF2200 draws.

I use my NA spec CMS in the UK and have no problems with the switch even under heavy load.

 

[Sparktrician]

Maybe I should have stated conclusions. I get the feeling that our two electricians here didn't catch the implications of what I wrote.  [tongue]

My math is a little fuzzy this morning. Anyone know what 12.5 x 4 = ?

I, for one, didn't miss your point, Rick.  Given your point, then, why is the switch rated to only 13.5 amps?  I certainly don't have the answer here, since I don't have insight into or access to the design spec.  I chose to use a different switch because the standard switch was very difficult to access while using both infeed and outfeed extensions as well as the sliding table.  If I ever had to turn it off in a big hurry due to an unforeseen "issue", I certainly didn't want to be putting my already ugly mug any closer than necessary to the spinning bit, just to get to the standard switch.  The best option for me was to find a properly rated tool switch and locate it above the work surface where I can get to it immediately. 

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I understand what you are saying about the switch location, Willy. I too have the sliding table and the switch is obscured by the rail. I haven't decided on a better location yet. If it was my shaper, above and behind would be my first choice. Being a router table, I don't think I want to have anything above the table because the table could get used without the fence.

Even though I understand where all of the different numbers come from and what they mean, I am going to refrain from explaining it here.

Since I [don't] have the OF2200 mounted in the CMS, I am sure I [won't] be ecstatic about the incredible dust collection it offers. I [wasn't] using the CMS to do raised panels 2 weeks ago, and [wasn't] shocked to discover absolutely no dust on the floor below the table afterward. I also [wasn't] pleasantly surprised to discover that I didn't need to unlock the router's trigger in order to engage the bit changing ratchet.

 

[narrowboatboy]

Two weeks ago I decided to take a closer look at the switch inside the enclosure. It's a mini magnetic contactor made by Tripus Systems in Germany. That really piqued my curiosity, because I have never seen a magnetic contactor this small before. Being a magnetic contactor means that the switch turns itself off if you unplug the CMS table from power. Most router table switches are just mechanical push buttons that won't turn off if they lose power.

I'm a UK CMS user and my switch doesn't trip out if power is disconnected (i.e. plug pulled from wall socket) many times i've plugged in plug-it-lead to say ts55 and it's started with my hand on table top, would we have different type of switch here or do you think something might be wrong with my machine?

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I'm a UK CMS user and my switch doesn't trip out if power is disconnected (i.e. plug pulled from wall socket) many times i've plugged in plug-it-lead to say ts55 and it's started with my hand on table top, would we have different type of switch here or do you think something might be wrong with my machine?

I'm pretty sure it was a European member of the forum that originally commented about the power switch cutting out when power was lost. (Maybe Alex). I was actually about to correct them on their statement when I decided to verify it myself and found it to be correct. I was very surprised to discover it, because I have never seen a magnetic contactor this compact.

Based on some internet searching, Tripus is the only company that makes an all-in-one magnetic contactor with push buttons like this. So it is possible that older versions of the CMS table in Europe did not use this type of switch. It is somewhat rare and might be new.

Keep in mind that unplugging the tool from the CMS will not cause the contactor to turn off. It is only unplugging the CMS from the wall outlet (or vac) that will cause the contactor to turn off. (Assuming you left the power button in the ON position in the first place.)

 

[narrowboatboy]

thanks for enlightenment shall do some experimenting tomorrow

 

[upscale]

I'll be happy to bury you with your CMS. Then I'll know where and what part of the burial site to come back and exhume.  [big grin]

 

[Kev]

I'll be happy to bury you with your CMS. Then I'll know where and what part of the burial site to come back and exhume.  [big grin]

RIP
Here lies Fred
1940 to 2014
had a good innings
Fred's CMS
2012 to 2014
gone before it's time​

 

[joeneary16]

A word of advise seeing as you are [not] using the 2200 in the CMS table. There is a clear dust shield to keep the shavings out of the ratchet area. When you install it make sure you rotate it clockwise to lock it in place. If you don't you'll be here asking how to remove the bit because the ratchet does not work.

If you want to use 1/4" bits, the 1/4" collet from the 1400 fits the 2200.

Tom

I have this problem. Ratchet won't engage to can't loosen collet. Anyone know how to fix this?

 

[peter halle]

It sounds like you have the trigger lock pressed in.  Release that and your collet should work normally.

Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

A word of advise seeing as you are [not] using the 2200 in the CMS table. There is a clear dust shield to keep the shavings out of the ratchet area. When you install it make sure you rotate it clockwise to lock it in place. If you don't you'll be here asking how to remove the bit because the ratchet does not work.

If you want to use 1/4" bits, the 1/4" collet from the 1400 fits the 2200.

Tom

I have this problem. Ratchet won't engage to can't loosen collet. Anyone know how to fix this?

I assume the 2200 in the CMS? Is the cover on the router?

When it happened on mine (this is how I discovered the cover locks...), removed plate from CMS, removed  2200 from plate. (Make sure the 2200 is unplugged from the mains) Laid the 2200 on its side with the ratchet lever facing up, pressed down hard on the ratchet lever while twisting the the bit. After the proper amount of twisting, cursing and frustration the ratchet engaged enough for me to remove the bit. Was about to try blowing the ratchet area out but got the bit loose before I got to that point.

Don't worry about damaging the ratchet mechanism, the engagement rod has a torque sleeve. Can't see how you could damage any of the mechanism with a lot of force on the lever.

Once you get the bit out remove the CMS cover, the 3 screws from the ratchet area cover and clean it out well. Take pictures and observe how everything is in the ratchet area. Don't lose the 3 springs that set the dust sleeve.

The trigger lock does not override the ratchet on the 2200, only the 1400.

Mine has been flawless since I discovered the cover locks on the 2200.

Tom

 

[peter halle]

Thanks Tom for correcting me.  I obviously have a 1400 and made the false assumption that this safety feature was on all models.

Peter

 

[builderbob]

A word of advise seeing as you are [not] using the 2200 in the CMS table. There is a clear dust shield to keep the shavings out of the ratchet area. When you install it make sure you rotate it clockwise to lock it in place. If you don't you'll be here asking how to remove the bit because the ratchet does not work.

If you want to use 1/4" bits, the 1/4" collet from the 1400 fits the 2200.

Tom

I have this problem. Ratchet won't engage to can't loosen collet. Anyone know how to fix this?

The reason this occurs (from what I've heard) is that dust occasionally creeps between the clear cover on the upside down 2200 and prevents the collet from being locked. A simple removal of the clear cover (twist to remove) and some blown in air or vac will take care of this. You may have to remove the 2200 or flip the cms plate upside down to gain access to that cover. Best of luck & let us know how you fare!

 

[tjbnwi]

A word of advise seeing as you are [not] using the 2200 in the CMS table. There is a clear dust shield to keep the shavings out of the ratchet area. When you install it make sure you rotate it clockwise to lock it in place. If you don't you'll be here asking how to remove the bit because the ratchet does not work.

If you want to use 1/4" bits, the 1/4" collet from the 1400 fits the 2200.

Tom

I have this problem. Ratchet won't engage to can't loosen collet. Anyone know how to fix this?

The reason this occurs (from what I've heard) is that dust occasionally creeps between the clear cover on the upside down 2200 and prevents the collet from being locked. A simple removal of the clear cover (twist to remove) and some blown in air or vac will take care of this. You may have to remove the 2200 or flip the cms plate upside down to gain access to that cover. Best of luck & let us know how you fare!

Problem is you can't remove the cover with a bit in the collet.

Only time I've had chips enter the ratchet area is when I did not lock the cover in place. Once it is locked no room for debris to enter the 2200.

Tom