Butt Mortise Plane?

V

vanderpooch

Member
Joined
May 7, 2007
Messages
52
Any of you finish guys using a butt mortise plane?

I keep thinking how useful one would be when installing hardware on prehungs. Seems I'm constantly needing too deepen mortises just a bit and often during the last stages of construction when I really don't want to deal with a router (even a festool).

After each job I want one on, I swear I'll buy it, then the $ always gets spent on something else. I've been watching Ebay for a couple years and they pretty much never come up. There are actually a couple right now, but they'yy both go for at least what a new Lie-Nielsen costs.

Anyway, just curious...

- Kit
 
never heard of it. how about using a chisel plane? I have a stanley rebate plane that converts to a small chisel plane. The iron is only 1" wide though.
 
I think I saw a shoulder plane (Lee Valley maybe) that converted to a butt mortise plane. Looked pretty handy. Pretty, too.
 
Kit,
i googled it before your reply.

It seems to me that it would work well in one direction and tearout or pull up the grain in the opposite direction. I have been using a lot of sipo and african mahogany which I find hard to plane. It has an interlocking grain that tears in both directions so I just prefer the router route. ;D
 
Yeah,

I'm thinking more for the regular stock doors, especially prehungs, quick modifications when doing the hardware installs. You know when you're putting in strikes and the mortises are never quite the right depth, or they aren't flat because the dumbass working in the prehang shop finds it too challenging to actually hold the router down on the F**#@!^ template!?

When you make sipo jambs, the correct depth for the hardware isn't an issue, is it? ;)

- Kit
 
Not really, swinging the doors the way the client wanted sometimes is. :D
 
Kit,
I have the Lie Nielson and have found it to be a worthwhile purchase for fixing the problems you metioned.  I have used it occassionally for strikes and latches in finished and furnished homes.  I detail the edges and rough the mortise with a chisel then use the plane to take it to finished depth.  Tear out isn't much of a problem this way.  I found that it works better to tap the handle of the tool with an open palm than to try to push the tool as you would a #4 for example.  It's nice for small odd ball stuff but I wouldn't hang a door with it.
 
I don't have that particular lie plane but I don't think a shoulder or chisel plane would be any help much.  The shoulder plane is not going to let you reach deep enough for a mortise most likely and the chisel would need a support board clamped on the side of the door to work properly IMHO.  I do own the lie chisel and shoulder planes as well as a couple others and they are all great...I especially like their block planes.

Best,
Todd
 
I have always wanted a plane that will trim the last 4" of an edge on a door while its still hanging. You know when you have to trim a heavy door and you cant be bothered to take it off but when you plane down the side the plane front hits the floor before the blade reaches the end of the door.

I have seen those bullnose planes and always thought they would do the trick.
 
I have the LN butt mortise plane.  I'm not a pro and the work I do I don't need it often... however it is easy to use.  After you use it a bit it is slick and quick...
 
joiner1970 said:
I have always wanted a plane that will trim the last 4" of an edge on a door while its still hanging. You know when you have to trim a heavy door and you cant be bothered to take it off but when you plane down the side the plane front hits the floor before the blade reaches the end of the door.

I have seen those bullnose planes and always thought they would do the trick.
Click to expand...

I would recommend the lie chisel plane for that operation.  IRRC the bullnose planes are shorter and not very wide...

Best,
Todd
 
I have one.  You do have to perform some chisel work for outlining and roughing out.  I found that you don't want to take too much depth at one time, nor too much width.  I try to take about a 1/8"-1/4" wide pass starting from the outside so that it doesn't take as much effort.  Otherwise, I end up blowing through the stopping point!
 
I like using router planes for fine tuning hinge mortises.  The blades are not very wide.  But since it isn't a large area, it doesn't take long.  IMO, the depth adjustment is a more precise than on a bench-style plane.
 
Anyone know of another source for a mortise plane other than Lie-Nielsen?  It's a tool I won't use everyday so I'd like to find a less expensive version if possible. 
 
Peter Halle said:
Brice,

What is your envisioned usage?
Click to expand...

Peter, butt hinges for (interior and exterior) doors.  I generally use a jig (the MFS) and router to cut mortises for hinges but for the small job, one or two doors jobs, a mortise plane would be easier than dragging out the router, MFS and dust extractor. 
 
Brice,

As a traveling carpenter I know you are concerned about storage space.  I just started my search, but here is one possibility that may be a compromise, but none the less:
Veritas offering

Peter
 
Brice,

The only other currently produced version is a wood bodied Ulmia/ECE plane. I think it is at least as expensive, if not more.

If you had any interest in making a plane, this would be an excellent first venture. Since a super wide mouth is the goal, it's almost impossible to screw up.

- Kit
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ear3
FS: Lie Nielsen no. 140 Skew Block Plane (Right)
Replies
0
Views
150
ear3
ear3
derekcohen
Trestle Dining Table Revisited (completed)
2
Replies
32
Views
3K
luvmytoolz
luvmytoolz
derekcohen
Marking knife
2
Replies
34
Views
737
derekcohen
derekcohen
six-point socket II
Let's talk about a great site/"beater" plane - Rali 220 Evolution
2
Replies
24
Views
5K
Jim Metzger
J
H
Novice Chisel/Plane Sharpening?
2
Replies
28
Views
5K
Mini Me
M
Back
Top