Byrd shelix on the way!

Warrior

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Ordered the byrd shelix for my Hammer A331 and should be installing it in 2 weeks! I cant wait.
 
I have one on my 8" grizzly.....no regrets.  Especially for the reason no more knife setting!
 
Eiji,

Please report back on how well you like it after a good test run.  I've been thinking about replacing my jointer head with a Byrd, but then started reading accounts of surface "scalloping" on a number of sites.  I'd still like to get one if it does not create a surface that is too wavy.

Fred
 
Fred, although your question wasn't directed towards me, I'll offer my .02 worth.
The Byrd head doesn't scallop anymore than a knife head will.  It's smooth enough but does require a few passes with a smoother plane afterwards.  
Where it surpasses a knife head is you no longer have to pay attention to grain direction when you pass it through the jointer.  The Byrd head leaves no tearout regardless of which direction you pass it over the jointer...even with figured maple.  That saves time and a lot of mental fatigue.  
The Byrd head produces smaller chips, so my dust collector works more efficiently.
Where you really reap the benefits is when you no longer have to deal with hours of tedious knife setting.  And the carbide cutters last much much longer than knives.  I hear 10 times as long as 1 HSS knife.  Each cutter has 4 sides so in my estimation, I won't have to buy new cutters until I'm very old and gray.
 
Sorry, I apparently only read the first post, but thanks for the responding.

The smoothing plane might be a killer for me - no skills what so ever at the moment, but would be worth learning in any case.  I would love to lose the hassle of knife setting, plus its noticeably quieter from what I've read and that would be a real plus.

I'm hoping that the carbide cutters will hold up to teak without dulling almost instantly.  I have hundreds of board feet of burmese teak that I haven't been able to get rid of so I would be more tempted to use it if it won't wipe out my jointer knives every couple boards.

Thanks for the info.

Fred
 
Byrd is nice from a noise stand point and figured woods but I prefer the Tersa system. Much faster changer over.
 
Straight knives will always give you a better finish but will tear out figured wood.  I like figured woods so byrd it is.
 
Stoolman said:
 Each cutter has 4 sides so in my estimation, I won't have to buy new cutters until I'm very old and gray.

I have a Byrd retro-fitted to my Jet 8" Jointer and it has 5 sides.
 
I'm extremely jealous. Are you fitting the head yourself? I have read that it is difficult to fit the shelix to an A3 31 - what information have you been given?
 
Tezzer said:
Stoolman said:
 Each cutter has 4 sides so in my estimation, I won't have to buy new cutters until I'm very old and gray.

I have a Byrd retro-fitted to my Jet 8" Jointer and it has 5 sides.

You must be referring to 5 rows of cutters rather than 5 sides on each little square cutter.  Hard to get a 5-sided square.  There's a different name for that.
 
The head arrived yesterday. That's funny because I didnt even pay for it yet. ::)

I called Carl at Felder to get squared up and see when the bearings were coming. Ill post some pics of the change over.

the bearings wont make it til next week so all I can do is stare at the beautiful head and dream. :-\
 
Well its in and it is awesome!

the change over was fun.  ;D

Took about 3 hrs, had to remove the guards(they werent installed for some reason anyway ::)), front and rear covers, in-feed table, belt, chain sprockets, and head assembly, remove old head, press new bearings on the byrd head. reverse order, and tune. I took pictures of nearly every step then lost them. they were on my droid and then they werent.

Sorry

Eiji
 
I bet if you did it again to get new pic's it would take less than 3hrs! [poke]

;D ;D  Rob.
 
Gotta love electronics - I just spent 20 hrs getting rid of a virus that got into my computer.  Only took 30 min or so to get the virus off, but my network connection was killed in the process and it took forever to figure out what part of the transport layer was messed up.

You might be able to use an undelete program if you really want the pics.

How smooth is the surface, how much "scalloping", if any, do you get?

Thanks

Fred
 
Rob-GB said:
I bet if you did it again to get new pic's it would take less than 3hrs! [poke]

;D ;D  Rob.

...and doing it the 2nd time would give a chance to find proper placement for all of the leftover nuts, bolts & screws from the first attempt.  [big grin]
 
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