Econoline
Member
It's kind of ironic that when I found the sweet spot for the added grub screw, the Festy jigsaw blades no longer fit in the saw. The Bosch blades drop right in...
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E.
Carvex pendulum fix
- Thread starter mcooley
- Start date
Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 5,067
Econoline said:
I have struggled with the genuine Festool blades since day one. It has to be the extra thickness. One of the two that came with the saw has never been in it. It just will not fit. All of the other T-shank blades from other manufacturers seem to be fine. I was under the impression that the thck ones were supposed to match the width of a standard TS55 blade, so you could finish a cut that was started with the track, by hand.
Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 5,067
I would assume that they have newer blades to accommodate that, at the 1.8mm width?
Steve1
Member
For anybody looking for the screws, they would more commonly be called a "ball plunger" or "ball spring plunger".
Its not really a grub screw -- if you search that, you are likely to get a solid spherical point set screw.
Its not really a grub screw -- if you search that, you are likely to get a solid spherical point set screw.
Econoline
Member
Crazyraceguy said:
Well, the jigsaw blades got renumbered and got a facelift a few years ago, but don't think width of cut was chaged honestly. Have not seen it mentioned anywhere either.
But looking at changing over to TS 55 F... good question. I know some blades are thinner than the TS55' 2.2mm. But would be nasty if they are wider than 1.8mm..
I do have a near-complete blade collection in my DIY Trion Systainer.. so I'm gonna check that.
mino
Member
This looks like a design defect to me.
Looking at the design, it would seem to me the original pin is *expected* to stay put inside the plastic by friction but it does not.
I cannot imagine the original pin as *meant* to be allowed to freely move and be stopped only by the external housing - which is not guaranteed to be at the same position vis-a-vis the gearbox assembly to begin.
That effectively makes the pin completely pointless. Once out, stopped by the housing, THE ORIGINAL PIN NO LONGER DOES ITS FUNCTION -> the designer put it there for a reason. Not for fun.
[member=101]Festool USA[/member]
Can you please take this with HQ and see if can get some formal feedback ?
This to me looks like the *expected* scenario - pin staying put - is not seen in practice and after some use the pins, being smooth, slip out of the gearbox and as the "standard" servicing manual does not check for this problem it is not noticed when the saws are sent in.
This would also explain why hobby users tend to not complain much while the pro's like Coen scream about it.
Looking at the design, it would seem to me the original pin is *expected* to stay put inside the plastic by friction but it does not.
I cannot imagine the original pin as *meant* to be allowed to freely move and be stopped only by the external housing - which is not guaranteed to be at the same position vis-a-vis the gearbox assembly to begin.
That effectively makes the pin completely pointless. Once out, stopped by the housing, THE ORIGINAL PIN NO LONGER DOES ITS FUNCTION -> the designer put it there for a reason. Not for fun.
[member=101]Festool USA[/member]
Can you please take this with HQ and see if can get some formal feedback ?
This to me looks like the *expected* scenario - pin staying put - is not seen in practice and after some use the pins, being smooth, slip out of the gearbox and as the "standard" servicing manual does not check for this problem it is not noticed when the saws are sent in.
This would also explain why hobby users tend to not complain much while the pro's like Coen scream about it.
mino said:
I complain about a lot, but until recently I wasn't aware of this particular Carvex problem. A few months ago I have used a Carvex in the wild and it definitely had this problem too. Very noticeable too, but for the owner this was the best jigsaw they ever had, so then the perspective is different.
PSA for anyone that is thinking about doing this fix... thread locker is required. The screw came loose after running the saw for a total of less than 10 minutes.
EDIT: just make sure whatever you use to lock the threads is meant for metal to plastic. I used a tiny bit of thick CA glue.
EDIT: just make sure whatever you use to lock the threads is meant for metal to plastic. I used a tiny bit of thick CA glue.
