CMS modules

I weighted all pro and cons for using original MFT-800. CSM module with OF-2000 is extremely heavy. Plate is very thick and has nonuniform profile.  Without reinforcing MDF it will fell eventually on the floor. So it makes sense to make sturdy wooden/aluminum angles frame and place original top aside.  Another advantage for aluminum angles is  that you can lock insert in place. I'll try to complete this project in few weeks.

VictorL
 
of all the places to look for something HIGH QUALITY...  you may be surprised to find that GRIZZLY has a really GREAT sliding router table for under $500 shipped IIRC...  -was only about $400 shipped when I bought mine,  has
been a really valuable tool...
but as soon as I can find a way to score a complete CMS system  all the tops, the base, accessories and the cart..  I will find a way to pay for it and never look back.
but if I could have ANY single non US Festool product, it would definitely be the BS105E set...
 
I took a few more pictures today of the router module in the MFT 800 to be able to directly answer some of the comments made above. Also, there are a couple of pitfalls which I will try to explain.

Here is a photo of the rear edge of the base plate. On the CMS table, there is a mating profile. It is obviously very difficult to replicate this profile when making your own router table.

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You have a choice. Either rest the base plate on the top lip or the bottom lip. I decided to have the base plate resting on the top lip rather than the bottom lip as there was too little material left to provide good support for the bottom lip. With the top lip you can see that there remains a very solid 15mm or so.

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On the front edge of the base plate, these two cams rotate to lock the base plate into the CMS table. Since they protruded slightly, I shaved them slightly and relieved the router table where they made contact.

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Let's address the issue of whether an MFT 800 top is strong enough to support the weight of the base plate, fence and an OF 1400 router.

The base plate is 7mm thick. With the exception of the rear edge, the MFT top is at least 13mm thick where the base plate's sides are resting on it. The top is 15mm thick where it supports the front and back edges, which are twice the length of the sides and carry most of the weight. The rabbet is 1/2" wide on the sides and front edge.

I have total confidence that this is more than sufficient to support the necessary weight.

I have not detected any sag at all in the top, but I will monitor this over time.

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I can also use some Festool screw clamps to secure the base plate to the MFT top behind the fence for extra security. With the fence wings extended over the MFT top, even if there was a failure in the top the wings would not be able to fall through the hole.

I hope this allays people's fears.

The best fence I have ever seen on a router table with horizontal and vertical router stops (similar to featherboards).

Fence up.

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Fence down.

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I am also gearing up to track some of these CMS inserts down here in the states. How thick is the aluminum plate? I would guess 6mm, but I'd like to know for sure from one of you lucky guys that have one. Also, would the plate for the TS55 insert be the same thickness?

Great pictures.
 
I believe Richard Leon posted about his being 7mm thick which puts it at just a hair over 1/4".
 
I thought I had read somewhere that the collet will raise enough to change bits on top of the plate (with an OF2200EB) Does this work? Is it difficult to hold the ratchet lock switch from below...or can you reach it from the top?

 
The OF 2200 does seem to plunge the collet deep enough to do bit changes from above, at the worst, with a bent wrench.  The OF 1400 is a no go.  I tried it.
 
CutsTwice said:
I thought I had read somewhere that the collet will raise enough to change bits on top of the plate (with an OF2200EB) Does this work? Is it difficult to hold the ratchet lock switch from below...or can you reach it from the top?

It's not a problem to change bits from below as long as you don't mind kneeling on the floor. It's easy enough to flip the module up and rest it on the base to change bits if you prefer not to grovel about in the dust.
 
That's kind of a bummer. I'll buy it anyway though [wink]. One more question if I may...How does the locking depth stop work? The literature leads me to believe that when it's locked and the router is installed in the router table you can adjust the height up and down using the fine adjustment knob. Is there a limit to the travel when you do this, or will it traverse the entire 80mm range without resetting the depth stop?
 
Ooops, that question is for the OF2200eb, not the cms, but I'd love to hear anyone's input on the issue.
 
I have found it easy to change bits in the OF1400 from below the table, but you have to do it from the back of the table as the router faces backwards.

The plate is 7mm thick, but there is a lip at the front edge which is only 5mm thick. At the back, there is a C-shaped profile which hooks into the CMS basis table. All the CMS modules are the same thickness.

I have been using the table a fair amount the last few days for some template routing. I took a video of it but it did not come out very well, plus I dropped the camera at the end which made everything look like a workshop accident so I thought it best not to post it! I will try again another time.

Richard.

 
I have never changed a bit from below with the OF1400.I can change a 72mm bit from above with no problem .

Maximum plunge is level with the table ,all you have to do is tilt the spanner a bit so why this strange idea of a 'no you can't' with the OF 1400? Someone even mentioned using a cranked spanner with the big router???So why not the OF1400?
 
Nigel said:
I have never changed a bit from below with the OF1400.I can change a 72mm bit from above with no problem .

Maximum plunge is level with the table ,all you have to do is tilt the spanner a bit so why this strange idea of a 'no you can't' with the OF 1400? Someone even mentioned using a cranked spanner with the big router???So why not the OF1400?

Because the OF 1400 doesn't plunge the collet as close to the base plate as the OF 2200 does.  I sure don't think a bent wrench is going to do it for the OF 1400, but if you like the angle wrench solution, that's fine.  To me, depending on the bit, there's too much possibility for hitting the carbide on the bit or slipping with the wrench using it in that fashion.
 
Changing bits on an OF1400 in a CMS module is exactly one of my reasons for not buying the CMS Basic Unit. I find it awkward and too much strain to my rheumatic knees to crawl around under the unit when changing bits.  [crying] And you can't tilt the CMS modules in the CMS Basic Unit.

The CMS Basic Unit should (in my opinion) have a larger "table top" with hinges with springs strong enough to hold the "table top" in 90 degrees as you can see in my home made CMS Basic Unit by scrolling down in the following link:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/cms-of-unit/

...much easier to change bits that way! [smile]

Kind regards
Henrik
 
I can change the bit from above for both the 1400 and 2200, just need to tilt the spanner a bit. The pain is reaching round the back to get to the collet lock which faces away, a shame it not at the front. Also not that the collet lock won't let you undo if you have the power latch activated
 
I can change the bit from above for both the 1400 and 2200, just need to tilt the spanner a bit. The pain is reaching round the back to get to the collet lock which faces away, a shame it not at the front. Also not that the collet lock won't let you undo if you have the power latch activated

But not really possible if you are using one of the bushings (correct term?)

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hrrb said:
I can change the bit from above for both the 1400 and 2200, just need to tilt the spanner a bit. The pain is reaching round the back to get to the collet lock which faces away, a shame it not at the front. Also not that the collet lock won't let you undo if you have the power latch activated

But not really possible if you are using one of the bushings (correct term?)

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On the newer version the bushings insert from the top so it will depend on the bushing and bit you use, providing the hole in the bushing is big enough that you can lift over the bit then no problem... If not well you would have an issue whether or not it as the festool router table
 
I like the bushings that come with the module. You put in one from the underside before mounting the router- this is to help centre the router.

Then you select the one that fits closest to the router bit- there are about 5 or 6 off the top of my head- and they click in and out so easily from the table top. Their moderate flexibility is helpful in removing them. On my former router Freud router table, I would have to bash the bushing with a mallet and screwdriver from the bottom to get it off. They were so hard they were unflexible. The problem was exacerbated when any dust became compacted around the bushing. Nightmare. In the end, I left it off completely exposing a huge hole. Unsafe, and allowed a lot of dust to fall through.

The dust collection when you use the right bushing is unbelievably good. I routed a ton of stuff the other day, and it was as dust-free afterwards as it was before I started.
 
As mattfc says it's easy enough to change bits from above.

It's pretty obvious you have to remove the inserts/bushings to allow this but that would be so for most router tables unless you have a router that plunges beyond it's base.In fact  with the ratchet it's the easiest  bit change setup I've seen .

As for the collet lock switch combination,that's good isn't it?
 
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