Considering switching from track saws/MFT to a panel saw.

As someone who successfully builds cabinets for my own use without a table saw, I hate to disappoint you, because I am not going to try to refute this idea entirely. But I am going to try to soften it a little.

I started with a track saw, wanted to be able to work a little faster so I got a guide rail square. Then my cuts still weren't coming out as square as I wanted, and people here told me what I needed was parallel guides, so I got a pair of 30" ones. And guess what? I am happy now, and don't look at tools anymore. OK, that was a lie, but when it comes to turning a sheet of plywood into a bunch of panels ready for assembly, I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything.
When I first used a track saw there was no aftermarket guides, squares etc so there was no way I was going to pay good money for something that was then fundamentally hard to use and unsuitable for what I wanted to do so I bought a short stroke slider that can crosscut but not rip a full length sheet. It works for me but I stand by my comments above. That the aftermarket stuff now makes it feasible to use a track saw I still doubt my decision would be different. I have a large workshop and I can understand lack of space being a big factor in the decision of making the choice between a slider and a track saw which the OP is asking about. A small slider will replace a mitre saw making it a multi use tool which is something to be considered. If I was cutting panels as often as you and needed to make long cuts and lacked the space for a full panel saw I would build a vertical panel saw.
 
Samo,

What fundamental issue are you trying to address by getting a panel saw?
Honestly, I've come to dread stepping into my garage and trying to cut something to the measurements I want, repeatedly and consistently. It always takes 10 times longer as I mess around with all these accessories I've waste my money on only to be disappointed in the results. Always seems to be something different messing up too.

For example, this week I was messing about building a Paulk-style work bench (no mft holes though). Pretty simple, 1 front and 1 back panel 1800x270, 4 dividers 780x270. Took about half a day and none of them were the same size. I think the most annoying part is all the messing around with clamps and sacrificial boards and just how awkward that gets. Clearly I'm not very skilled at it as others don't have these issues. And sure, I'm not super experienced (especially with the track saw) and I'm sure I'll get better with practice, refining my technique and working smarter. It's just that it's a massive drain at the moment and pretty demotivating. Not crapping in the track saw or anything either, I know this is coming across as quite whiny, !'m just frustrated! I thought I could "buy" my way out of these problems but I'm so far down the rabbit hole I could've bought an insanely good panel saw in hindsight.

For reference, my dad was a cabinet maker his whole life. When he ran his own business I'd frequently help. We only ever cut up sheet goods on the panel saw. Admittedly, it was an enormous Altendorf with the digital fence adjuster and all those bells and whistles. I just miss being able to enter the measurement on the digital control, have the fence move and the saw actually cut to the dimensions I want! I know I won't have that level at home but as close as possible would be great.
 
Honestly, I've come to dread stepping into my garage and trying to cut something to the measurements I want, repeatedly and consistently. It always takes 10 times longer as I mess around with all these accessories I've waste my money on only to be disappointed in the results. Always seems to be something different messing up too.

For example, this week I was messing about building a Paulk-style work bench (no mft holes though). Pretty simple, 1 front and 1 back panel 1800x270, 4 dividers 780x270. Took about half a day and none of them were the same size. I think the most annoying part is all the messing around with clamps and sacrificial boards and just how awkward that gets. Clearly I'm not very skilled at it as others don't have these issues. And sure, I'm not super experienced (especially with the track saw) and I'm sure I'll get better with practice, refining my technique and working smarter. It's just that it's a massive drain at the moment and pretty demotivating. Not crapping in the track saw or anything either, I know this is coming across as quite whiny, !'m just frustrated! I thought I could "buy" my way out of these problems but I'm so far down the rabbit hole I could've bought an insanely good panel saw in hindsight.

For reference, my dad was a cabinet maker his whole life. When he ran his own business I'd frequently help. We only ever cut up sheet goods on the panel saw. Admittedly, it was an enormous Altendorf with the digital fence adjuster and all those bells and whistles. I just miss being able to enter the measurement on the digital control, have the fence move and the saw actually cut to the dimensions I want! I know I won't have that level at home but as close as possible would be great.
If you always use it in your garage, can you fit a table saw there? If I could have done that, I would never had bought a track saw. My issue was carrying full sheets of 4 x 8 down to my basement.
 
Woodworking as a hobby should be fun and not demotivating.

I've seen videos using a drill press or even a table saw (with a jig and cordless drill) to do some turning. Their "successes" don't mean those are the right tools for someone who wants to be a woodturner.

Call me a low hanging fruit. I'd forget about trying more gadgets and hacks on what hasn't been working for so much and for so long. I'd just buy myself a proven solution...and start enjoying my shop time. And the sooner, the better.

I always get my sheets rough cut to size at the lumber yard. My cabinetmaking friend who runs a business, on the other hand, never gets sheets precut...he does it in his shop on the table saw -- with the help of someone.
 

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I have a Chrysler mini-van with the Stow & Go folding rear seat feature that allows me to lay a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood flat on the floor. But note that this feature is only available with the gas powered van. Batteries occupy the Stow & Go folding space in the hybrid version.

I buy my sheets uncut. I set up a roller stand behind the van and I roll the sheet onto a foam cutting surface sitting on saw horses. I then use the track saw to size the sheets, and then make finish cuts on the table saw.

If Kreg had made their edge guide back when I was shopping for a track saw, it would undoubtedly been sufficient for my purposes. And while I can get sufficient accuracy with the track saw for cabinet work, it is more tedious than making the finish cuts on the table saw.

I would note that I have a table saw with a 50” fence, and a Sears radial arm saw. So I will often rip the sheets and carry 12” boards to the basement. Then trim them on the table saw, and cut to length on the radial arm saw (which is limited to about 16” long cut).

I do have an accurate large square, and I do like to “cut to the line” rather than use a ruler. If my line is drawn in the right spot, I can cut to the right of the line or to the left of the line.

I also have a TSO parallel guide which I like, but for repetitive cuts, it is slower, and due no doubt to user error, less repeatable for repeated cuts. I prefer the table saw for that.

The one deficiency I find with the table saw is cuts over 4’ wide. Space, and my ability to maintain solid contact between the board and the fence become issues.
 
The one deficiency I find with the table saw is cuts over 4’ wide. Space, and my ability to maintain solid contact between the board and the fence become issues.

- That's where the JessEM stock guides triumph.
 
Packard said, “If Kreg had made their edge guide back when I was shopping for a track saw, it would undoubtedly been sufficient for my purposes.”

That might be true but probably not. I’m certain the results would not be equal to what you get from the track saw.
1. Running a saw against a rail does not prevent the saw from moving away from the rail.
2. Very few ordinary circular saws have bases that are actually parts the blade. Even fewer allow adjustment of the base to make it parallel. I know of only one.
3. I watched Kreg’s video and the cut edges are quite ragged, more so on one side than the other, probably due to #2 above.
 
Packard said, “If Kreg had made their edge guide back when I was shopping for a track saw, it would undoubtedly been sufficient for my purposes.”

That might be true but probably not. I’m certain the results would not be equal to what you get from the track saw.
1. Running a saw against a rail does not prevent the saw from moving away from the rail.
2. Very few ordinary circular saws have bases that are actually parts the blade. Even fewer allow adjustment of the base to make it parallel. I know of only one.
3. I watched Kreg’s video and the cut edges are quite ragged, more so on one side than the other, probably due to #2 above.
Before the track saw, I used a home-made circular saw guide with decent results, but tedious measuring setups. I took small slices from both edges of the cut boards on the table saw to make sure that they were parallel. The final cuts were made on all the matching boards at the same time.

In an ideal world, I would have unlimited finances and I would have a ground level shop to easily receive sheet goods. I would also have a sliding table saw to aid in cutting large sheets.

Alas, until I win the Mega Millions lottery (currently at $533 million) compromises will have to be made—but I did buy a lottery ticket. 😁
 
When the ATF55 tracksaw was released in Oz it was an absolutely ground breaking tool for me as I was doing a lot of door hanging. The time and effort it saved was incalculable. Customers were also impressed with the dust extraction greatly reducing the mess created. I still use it to break down sheets.
 
Honestly, I've come to dread stepping into my garage and trying to cut something to the measurements I want, repeatedly and consistently. It always takes 10 times longer as I mess around with all these accessories I've waste my money on only to be disappointed in the results. Always seems to be something different messing up too.

<snip>

For reference, my dad was a cabinet maker his whole life. When he ran his own business I'd frequently help. We only ever cut up sheet goods on the panel saw. Admittedly, it was an enormous Altendorf with the digital fence adjuster and all those bells and whistles. I just miss being able to enter the measurement on the digital control, have the fence move and the saw actually cut to the dimensions I want! I know I won't have that level at home but as close as possible would be great.
A few thoughts:

1. I've been where you are before, fed up with my latest tool purchase that was supposed to make everything just work effortlessly, and didn't. It's extremely frustrating. Sometimes, the best first thing to do is to put that thing down for a little while, forget about it, clean up the shop, mess with a different project that you can make progress on, have a beer or two, and wait a few days to bang your head against the wall again. For me, that feeling of "nothing is working" is the cue to shift gears.

2. Some other type of saw might be a right answer for you, so I'm not here to talk you out of that. However, sometimes it is useful to "slay the dragon," so to speak, and prove to yourself that you *can* get the tool to work, even if not as easily as you want. If I was in your shoes, when I had a clear head and a light heart, here is what I'd try. Forgive me if you've done this a hundred times already!
- Take a scrap or slightly oversized panel
- Find a clean edge or make one straightening cut, if none are present. Trim just a bit off--1/8"/3mm or so
- Get your square and strike a line perpendicular to that edge, placed to trim a similarly small amount off that end of the panel
- Lay your track down so that it splits the line you just drew. When I say "splits," I mean to divide the penciled line in half, along its length. It may help to draw the line a little hard, but don't go nuts, it should be fine pencil line not a crayon mark.
- Now, if you can, use clamps and lock your track down. You don't need to bear down on it, just give it a little extra grip. This takes one big potential variable out of the equation.
- Place the saw onto the track, and slide it back and forth with as little pressure as possible. You want to feel that it's seated properly. Make sure your cords and hoses are lined up so they won't snag anything.
- Start the saw, plunge it carefully (take 3-5 seconds to do so), and then begin pushing it forward while also keeping enough pressure to hold the saw in the down position. There should be some, but not a lot of resistance. Nothing should feel like you need to try very hard and your pressure should be roughly even between holding the saw down and pushing it forward. If you are putting your back into any part of this, that might be too hard.
- If you can't clamp the track down, then pause after the first 6-12" and look to see if your track is still splitting the line along its length. While you can reliably make good cuts with a track without clamps or guides or anything else, there is a *little* technique and feel to it and if you don't have that feel yet then it's not that hard to knock the track a little off course. Too much or too little pressure in the wrong direction can do it.
- Once the cut is done, take the panel and inspect it. If your pencil line is thick enough and you split it just right, you might be able to pick up bits of it along the cut edge. Present your square to the corner you just made and check it.
- Now, take out your tape measure, and pick an edge to reference off--either of your two clean edges are fine. Lay down two marks at an easy-to-measure distance (e.g. 12" or 350mm, not 11-3/32 or 336) to define an edge parallel to that. Then, using your track as a straightedge, lay it down so it splits those two marks, use a pencil to strike a line, and then pick up the track. Use your tape measure and check the distance at several points along the line. Is it the same? Use your square to reference off your other clean edge, and check if it is square to that. In general, your cuts are only as good as your measurements.
- If your line is good, put your track back down, splitting it as before, and cut it as before. You should now have at least two square corners on your panel, and two parallel edges. If you do, then you can lay down one more square edge as before, and finish the panel.

OK - that is a wall of text, go watch a video instead. It sounds worse than it is, but I am trying to make no assumptions about what you do or don't know what to do. If you try this, check at each stage, and if you get to some point and the result isn't good, then you know that your problem is close to that step. If the cause isn't obvious, share everything here, we can try to step through it. I'd come over and help but it is a long flight from Boston, USA.

For my part, when I $#@! this up, the most common causes are measurement errors (I measure 339 instead of 337 or, sometimes--eek--307) and "bump" errors where I nudge the track at the very start or even before I start the cut. Either of these will guarantee a bad result. Similarly, parallel guides make both kinds of mistake much easier to prevent, which is why I got them and am happy with the results. But, that is just my preference.

If on the other hand you do this and end up with a panel that is pretty darn square, you have now proven to yourself that you can do this. If you then think, "boy that's a pain in the...," you can decide what you want to do next knowing

3. As a general observation, if your primary experience of dicing up sheets of plywood is using a fairly high-end commercial production machine, two things are possibly true:
- Almost anything short of a more serious machine than most serious amateurs have will feel like something of a letdown by comparison
- You may possibly not have had the opportunity or need to develop your skills of measurement and setup, which are important when you can't rely on the tool to do that.
 
Honestly, I've come to dread stepping into my garage and trying to cut something to the measurements I want, repeatedly and consistently. It always takes 10 times longer as I mess around with all these accessories I've waste my money on only to be disappointed in the results. Always seems to be something different messing up too.

For example, this week I was messing about building a Paulk-style work bench (no mft holes though). Pretty simple, 1 front and 1 back panel 1800x270, 4 dividers 780x270. Took about half a day and none of them were the same size. I think the most annoying part is all the messing around with clamps and sacrificial boards and just how awkward that gets. Clearly I'm not very skilled at it as others don't have these issues. And sure, I'm not super experienced (especially with the track saw) and I'm sure I'll get better with practice, refining my technique and working smarter. It's just that it's a massive drain at the moment and pretty demotivating. Not crapping in the track saw or anything either, I know this is coming across as quite whiny, !'m just frustrated! I thought I could "buy" my way out of these problems but I'm so far down the rabbit hole I could've bought an insanely good panel saw in hindsight.

For reference, my dad was a cabinet maker his whole life. When he ran his own business I'd frequently help. We only ever cut up sheet goods on the panel saw. Admittedly, it was an enormous Altendorf with the digital fence adjuster and all those bells and whistles. I just miss being able to enter the measurement on the digital control, have the fence move and the saw actually cut to the dimensions I want! I know I won't have that level at home but as close as possible would be great.
I feel you. I really do. And while it's comforting to throw money at the problem (like getting a mini-slider), perhaps it might be a good moment to go back to basics. Because I think everyone here has been in your position of frustration at some point in time.

For my workbench project, I ended up with a 4'x8" sheet of 3/4" plywood that I needed to break down to build pseudo-cabinets. It's a very rare occasion for me to work with sheet goods. In times past, I would connect two 1400 rails but a few months ago, I got a great deal on a 2700 rail and was able to use that. I've got the Festool parallel guides but it's a bit of a hassle to set up that I never use them much, as I find it easier and quicker to simply hand mark the sheet, lay the rail, clamp it down and cut.

And maybe that's what you should consider doing - doing in the long way. Taking the time to carefully measure and cut. It forces you to work slower and be more deliberate. Plus, it makes you check and double check.

But mistakes will often be made.

This morning, I was cutting a panel on the table saw. It needed to be 227mm wide. Easy. I got plenty of room on the board. Set the table saw fence, make the cut - why does it look a little narrow? Take it to its position - oh, way too narrow. Dammit. I said 227. I knew it was 227. I double checked the measurement but didn't double check the fence. Which was set to 127mm. After a few moments of expletives, time to joint those two pieces together, clamp them, wait two hours and then recut. On the recut - no problem.

So, we all make mistakes and have our failures. Try not to sweat them.
 
No one seems to mention this, so I will.

The most accurate and reliable method of measurement is referencing. Always use this if you are unsure where your errors come from or when absolute/maximum precision is asked.

The way to use a referencing method is to use parallel guides. But NOT using the scales on them. Like this:
0a)
. Keep in mind that the track does appreciably flex longitudally when sufficiently long. A full rip at 8' is sufficiently long for this effect.
. You need to do a couple things to mitigate this:
. - handle the track gently, when you need to move it, move/lift the middle of it, not just the ends
. - be conscious the anti-slip strips are strong-enough to "fix-in" any flex you may have introduced by rough/inconsiderate handling of the track
. In short, treat your tracks as the measuring instruments they are.
0b)
. After the rip, check for straightness, even a plywood sheet can have internal tension released as it is rip-cut and the sheet then "self-bends" post-cut, re-cut the reference edge if it happens.*)
1)
. Set the PG stops to the value you will want to cut to and reference them off the known-good edge
2)
. Take a scrap stick, nail/screw a smooth-edge stop block to it and then cut the stick such the 'stop block' references of the good edge and the other end touches the back of the rail.
. When done, you have got a "reference stick" for XYZ wide cuts, mark it such.
3)
. Release the PG stops
4)
. Put your new reference stick next to one of the PG stops and use it to place the rail, lock the PG stop
5)
. Repeat 4) with the other PG stop
6)
. Use the PG as you normally would to make your cuts.
7)
. Observe the results and note any errors/issues you come along the procedure, adjust your workflow accordingly.


This referencing method is practical for referencing/checking but also in any scenarios where you expect to make multiple pieces of furniture that are expected to exactly match. If over a longer period, you may want to use aluminium reference sticks so their length is not affected by humidity.

Also, I cannot emphasize enough how important the 0b) step is if you are not super-confident of your stock properties..

ADD:
*) A good trick/practice is to use the middle of the board rip cut as your first cut to get the reference edge for PGs. That way any tension is released by the reference edge initial cut and can be remediated before the final to-size cut using the PGs or other method.
 
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Honestly, I've come to dread stepping into my garage and trying to cut something to the measurements I want, repeatedly and consistently. It always takes 10 times longer as I mess around with all these accessories I've waste my money on only to be disappointed in the results. Always seems to be something different messing up too.

For example, this week I was messing about building a Paulk-style work bench (no mft holes though). Pretty simple, 1 front and 1 back panel 1800x270, 4 dividers 780x270. Took about half a day and none of them were the same size. I think the most annoying part is all the messing around with clamps and sacrificial boards and just how awkward that gets. Clearly I'm not very skilled at it as others don't have these issues. And sure, I'm not super experienced (especially with the track saw) and I'm sure I'll get better with practice, refining my technique and working smarter. It's just that it's a massive drain at the moment and pretty demotivating. Not crapping in the track saw or anything either, I know this is coming across as quite whiny, !'m just frustrated! I thought I could "buy" my way out of these problems but I'm so far down the rabbit hole I could've bought an insanely good panel saw in hindsight.

For reference, my dad was a cabinet maker his whole life. When he ran his own business I'd frequently help. We only ever cut up sheet goods on the panel saw. Admittedly, it was an enormous Altendorf with the digital fence adjuster and all those bells and whistles. I just miss being able to enter the measurement on the digital control, have the fence move and the saw actually cut to the dimensions I want! I know I won't have that level at home but as close as possible would be great.
At the risk of encouraging you to spend more money, and if you want to continue down the track saw route, can you get an MFT instead of your current version and add the Benchdogs hinge and rail? (they come up for sale on Marketplace sometimes)
For me, and using some of what you already have, the best MFT set up is:

- Festool MFT, with leg braces
- Festool 'side extension table for MW1000'
- Benchdogs hinge and fence
- TSO 'MFT Aligned' set

This would give you trouble free, repeatable, cross cutting.
 
Thanks for the suggestions and encouragement everyone! I really appreciate it. It's given me quite a few ideas and different ways of working that make a lot more sense than what I've been doing. I've been trying to sneak some time in the garage after work to test a few things out and things are definitely going better with custom-made reference guides, pencil marking, manually measuring and a lot of clamping. It's changed the way I approach it now and has given me a few ideas on how better to setup my work area to make these cuts.

I've been focusing more on the track and anaylsing the cut, making sure it's actually straight. I'm pretty sure my 3000mm and 1900mm are bent in the middle by about 1mm. I tested this by making the cut with a clamped track then verifying the splinter guard was flush with the face along the entire cut edge. I then rotated the track 180 degrees so the "left"/"back" side of it was along the cut line. I noticed the ends were flush but the middle had a lip with the work piece sticking out further than the track. Is it possible both are bent? I treat these things with an insane amount of care and never mishandle them. There's a few more tests I can do but might need to wait for the weekend.

Weirdly, after cutting both sides of the panel I expected it to mostly be out on both sides evenly. But there seems to be a tiny bulge in the middle where it's .5-1mm wider than the ends.
 
Thanks for the suggestions and encouragement everyone! I really appreciate it. It's given me quite a few ideas and different ways of working that make a lot more sense than what I've been doing. I've been trying to sneak some time in the garage after work to test a few things out and things are definitely going better with custom-made reference guides, pencil marking, manually measuring and a lot of clamping. It's changed the way I approach it now and has given me a few ideas on how better to setup my work area to make these cuts.

I've been focusing more on the track and anaylsing the cut, making sure it's actually straight. I'm pretty sure my 3000mm and 1900mm are bent in the middle by about 1mm. I tested this by making the cut with a clamped track then verifying the splinter guard was flush with the face along the entire cut edge. I then rotated the track 180 degrees so the "left"/"back" side of it was along the cut line. I noticed the ends were flush but the middle had a lip with the work piece sticking out further than the track. Is it possible both are bent? I treat these things with an insane amount of care and never mishandle them. There's a few more tests I can do but might need to wait for the weekend.

Weirdly, after cutting both sides of the panel I expected it to mostly be out on both sides evenly. But there seems to be a tiny bulge in the middle where it's .5-1mm wider than the ends.
Note my point 0a).

You can test this like this:
- place your 3000 rail on the stock
- (lightly) clamp one side
- lift the whole rail while moving the other around, place it vertically down some random place, make sure of no "side" movement while doing so
- use pencil to mark the stock in the middle of the rail /against splinter guard or back of rail/
- use pencil to mark the stock in the unsecured end of the rail /against splinter guard or back of rail/
- lift the unsecured end of the rail and move it sideways by an inch or two
- do not lift the rail, but just move the unsecured end back so it matched to your previous mark
- use pencil to mark the stock in the middle of the rail /against splinter guard or back of rail/
- unclamp the rail and move it sideways
- observe how you got two marks in the middle which are not on top of each other ..

This behaviour a limitation of a light rail like the FS/2 when /too/ long a cut is being made. The Mafell/Bosch rails are even worse at this, being narrower, but are "helped" but their weak anti-slip strips.

The simplest way to 'mitigate' this is to avoid long rip cuts .. the more practical way is to not re-position the rail ends without lifting the whole rail. The anti-slip strips are really that grippy.

Hope helps. I am not saying that is the only source of your errors, but it definitely is one you need to understand so you can mitigate/address it .. and not mistake it for a bent rail.

---

On another note.
It is likely that a lot of folks who do the rough cut with a tracksaw then exact cut on a tablesaw method are seeing better results as compared to a pure /single cut/ tracksaw workflow thanks to incidentally using a two-cut method due to the two-step workflow. This proactively removes problems from any internal tension of the stock. IMO many would see the same reliability if they used a two-cut workflow with a tracksaw.
Yes, after some bad experience, I do check every rip in ply or wood for this - by lifting the rail and placing it lightly next to the cut as a straight edge, before moving on to next rip cut.

I recon pros over here, thinking @Crazyraceguy & Co, do not see this effect that much as they simply do not deal with sub-par stock as often and/or deal mostly in MDF/chipboard.
 
I recon pros over here, thinking @Crazyraceguy & Co, do not see this effect that much as they simply do not deal with sub-par stock as often and/or deal mostly in MDF/chipboard.
I know what you mean, but it does still happen. You would be surprised by how bad "shop ply" can bow, from tension.
It generally doesn't happen with the good stuff. (hardwood veneer, Baltic Birch, etc)
There are some Asian attempts at BB, some ok, some not.
MDF and, for the most part, particle board are stable. They can be damaged by bad storage, but that's not the material's fault.
The 3m rail is out of the range of most users too. The cautions are absolutely correct, but a common problem.
 
I know that this will look like a bit of advertising on my part but I have a genuine interest in accuracy and spent 2 years working full time on my own to develop the Parf Guide System. My current tracksaw cutting station gives me accuracy on 90 degree cuts of 0.0007 of a degree. Others have done better - ask Ron Paulk or do a Google search. Here is a post from one chap whom I have never met and my only correspondence with him is on this image:
Screenshot PGS Accuracy.png
The PGS has even won the prestigious King's Award for Enterprise in the Innovation category (only about 2 awards a year are won in this category).

Screenshot 2025-02-07 113419.png
I sold my big table saw as soon as I had my first fully working PGS prototype and used the money to finish the development.

Peter
 
Peter, I much admire the creativity you bring to builds. Your posts and videos have been inspiring.

There is no doubt in my mind that a MFT can be used to great accuracy and cut any angle.

However, the effort to achieve this is inefficient in terms of time and reliabilty when compared with even a basic tablesaw.

The MFT is not meant to compete with a tablesaw. It is a tool for the worksite. Unfortunately, it is a pretty sexy one, and seems to turn on YouTubers and their audiences in a way which a tablesaw does not. I think what lies behind this is that the tracksaw is a hand tool and, like a hand plane, is viewed as the choice of craftsmen ... unlike machines which suggest automation.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
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+1 on this - However, the effort to achieve this is inefficient in terms of time and reliabilty when compared with even a basic tablesaw.

with due respect to Peter who has offered great ideas to his peers.
 
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